Considering the current global situation, travelling still seems to be a far fetched thought, but that won’t stop us from looking out for the right travel companions… I meant wrist companions ofcourse. Following the complex 2016 DB25 World traveller, De Bethune has now introduced a dreamy GMT model to the De Bethune DB25 family, the DB25GMT Starry Varius.
“What on earth was I thinking of in working on a new GMT travel watch while all the countries of the world were entering lockdown? I am pleased that it is now finished and that all the nomads of the planet can finally resume their journey, doubtless with a different view of our world.” Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune
This new adaptation of the De Bethune DB25 World Traveller has all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, the integrated openworked lugs and a screw-down sapphire caseback that gives you a glimpse of the movement.
We’ll get to this incredibly complicated and slim movement eventually, but can we just take a moment and appreciate that gorgeous face on this dreamy watch. With the help of its flamed blue jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock, the first disc here indicates the date. But here’s what caught my attention. The iconic De Bethune 3D revolving moon ! No one does the sphere’s quite like De Bethune. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by this mysterious microsphere that appears to be floating weightless in its corridor. This function can be set both clockwise & counter-clockwise.
Now to replace a regular GMT hand, this patented & iconic three- dimensional moon-phase display, indicates day and night with its two halves: one blue and the other pink, well rose gold. During the day, it reveals more of the rose gold, and gradually turns blue post 6.00pm.
The Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions. So despite its complex construction, this mechanical GMT movement is quite simple to use.
In the midst of that curved dial is a poetic vision of De Bethune’s electric blue starry sky by day and night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section. The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial.
Just like its predecessors this 42mm case is also constructed from polished grade 5 titanium. Despite housing such a complicated movement, the calibre here is just 3mm thicker than the simpler version of the Starry Varius. With a case height of 11.8mm it should wear quite slim and elegant on the wrist, even reinforcing the already greatly appreciated characteristics of the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius.
Approximate price: CHF 95,000