As a watchmaker manufacture, the roots of the brand Angelus are cemented in its vintage creations which have been revered as timekeeping devices. Its Chronodate collection was first conceived in 1942 with the introduction of the bi-compax chronograph.
For the latest collection, Angelus is introducing three fresh models in the Chronodate collection at the Watches and Wonders 2023. These timepieces include a neo-retro chronograph, with a 5N red-gold reference and two titanium models. While the Chronodate Gold and Chronodate Titanium feature jet-black dial aesthetics, the latter model is also available with a fern-green dial that goes perfectly with the satiny grey of the titanium.
Following the maiden edition, the triple collection models reinforce the original intent of the Angelus Chronodate. A dominant of historic references and modern form, the Chronodate is an amalgam of different eras. The latest collection launched at the Watches and Wonders 2023 pairs the historical Angelus brand – and its prominence in the Swiss watchmaking heritage – and the Angelus brand of today: modern, complicated, and ultra-dynamic in its watchmaking approach. The choice of Chronodate complication alludes to the brand’s early successes which can be traced back to 1935, which mark the pioneering inception of the double push-piece chronograph wristwatches.
As a supplement to the heritage cues, at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Angelus offered its Chronodate models with modern construction standards and unrivaled comfort for the wearer with its unique multi-material and multi-structure case. Housed within the carbon composite container is the 60-hour power reserve A-500 caliber which itself is nestled within the 5N red-golf or titanium middle case.
Contemporary Case Design
The latest iteration of the Chronodate models first showcased at the Watches and Wonders feature a 42.5 mm case which continues the neo-retro spirit of these sporty chronographs. A machined carbon-fiber composite container gives the movement its founding support. The chronograph push-pieces, also constructed from carbon composite, are directly applied to this vessel. Lastly, a ring between the case middle and bezel is also made from this matte black material.
The engineering geniuses at Angelus have designed an attachment system around this container consisting of an open-worked cradle bringing the case middle and lugs into a single line, constructed from 5N red gold or titanium. The bezel marked with 12 notches is cut from these same metals and is also a part of the attachment system.
A Flexible Structure
The aesthetic and form consistency of myriad other Angelus timepieces is in continuation with the latest Chronodate models. Their modular superstructure was developed to play with multiple materials. It is born out of elements with taut, sloping, and beveled lines omnipresent across many other brand offerings, including its diver’s watches.
Giving the Chronodate a sporty tone is its chamfered profile as well as the alternating right angles and curves. The same is true of the crown, highlighted by a wide form that projects out from its guard with a central rubber strip for enabling easy operation.
A chronograph complication is a fitting choice to recall Angelus’s roots in contemporary times, as the brand was an accoladed manufacturer of such pieces from the 1930s onwards. The scaled-down proportions while resonating with the vintage times gave the chronograph counters an enlarged and legible appearance. This hallmark aesthetic is honestly replicated in the modern iterations launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 and gives the Chronodate it’s naturally imposing and readable presence.
A “velvet black” or “fern” green dial forms the ideal backdrop for the chronograph counter sub-dials. Super-LumiNova punctuations designed as applied Arabic numerals complete the dial aesthetic.
A Dynamic Movement
The ticking heart of the Chronodate collection is Angelus’s chronograph movement, the A-500 caliber. Its motions are translated into small seconds display at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. A pointer-date display around the dial periphery carves a homage to the original Angelus Chronodate from 1942. Secondary indications of the timepiece are highlighted by the red lacquer markings on the chronograph push-pieces, the chronograph central seconds hand, and the 30-minute counter hand.
Oscillating at a frequency of 4 Hz, the A-500 caliber has a column wheel with a horizontal coupling clutch to maintain a slim profile. An oscillator shaped like the letter “A” imparts the timepiece a self-winding competence. A tungsten rotor is installed on the Chronodate Titanium model while the Chronodate Gold is fitted with a 5N red-gold counterweight. A reference to the early days of Angelus right at the heart of the mechanism.
The Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium are listed at Swiss retail prices of CHF 42,900 and CHF 22,900 respectively.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and peripheral date
Movement: Calibre A-500, self-winding mechanical Jewels 26
Diameter: 30.00 mm
Thickness: 7.90 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Finishes main plate: sandblasted and NAC-treated
Bridges: microblasted and NAC-treated, satin-finished edges wheels: circular-grained and rhodium-plated Oscillating weight: tungsten with 18-carat red-gold (5N) or tungsten decoration
Dial red gold: velvet black – applied numerals and hour hands with Super- LumiNova
Titanium: velvet black or fern green – applied numerals and hour hands with Super-LumiNova
Case: Material bezel, crown and monobloc case middle: 18-carat red gold (5N) or titanium chamber, bezel ring and push-pieces: carbon composite Finishes satin-finished surfaces, polished chamfers Diameter 42.50 mm
Thickness: 14.25 mm
Crystal box sapphire, anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Back: box sapphire crystal, anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 metres/3 ATM
Material: black “ballistic” rubber
Folding clasp: red gold: titanium blades and 18-carat red-gold (5N) cap
Titanium: titanium blades and cap
Reference red gold: 0CDZE.B01A.K009B
titanium & black: 0CDYF.B02A.K009B
titanium & green: 0CDZF.F01A.K009B