The return of 18-carat yellow gold to the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is marked by the release of two new models at Watches And Wonders 2023. The first is a Rolesor made of yellow gold and Oystersteel, while the second is made entirely of yellow gold.
They’re similar in a lot of ways. The first is a grey – a new colour – and black ceramic 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert. The words “GMT-Master II” appear in powdered yellow on the dial. These updated models feature a Jubilee bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and an Easylink comfort extension link for added wearer convenience.
The latest iterations of the GMT-Master II are powered by the cutting-edge calibre 3285 movement, which allows it to show not only the standard time but also the date and a second time zone in 24-hour format.
The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, like all Rolex watches, is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, guaranteeing superior performance while worn.
One Instrument, Separated By Time Zones
The GMT-Master was initially created as a tool for businesspeople who frequently travelled around the world. It has a distinctive and easily recognisable design, with a rotatable bezel that can be turned in either direction and a graduated 24-hour insert that comes in a variety of colour schemes, some of which designate the lower half of the dial as the daytime hours and the upper half as the nighttime hours. The GMT-Master is a genuine “tool watch” that has developed over time to provide ever-better technical functionality. The GMT-Master II was introduced by Rolex in 1982; its movement allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the other hands.
The GMT-Master II is equipped with the standard hour, minute, and second hands, as well as a 24-hour hand with a triangle tip and a bidirectionally rotating bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, allowing it to show the time in two different time zones at once. The date and time are adjusted to match current local conditions.
When it came to monobloc bezels and bezel inserts, Rolex was an early adopter of specialised ceramics. These materials have a rare intensity of colour and are resistant to environmental effects; they are also nearly scratchproof. The chemical make-up of the high-tech ceramic also renders it inert and corrosion-proof. Rolex’s independence in producing these ceramic parts stems from the company’s development of proprietary expertise and innovative manufacturing methods.
The GMT-Master II’s new iterations feature a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic on the bezel, which can be rotated in both directions. The PVD coating on the recessed graduations and numerals is a bright yellow colour (Physical Vapour Deposition). The knurled edge of the bezel provides a firm grip, making it easy to turn.
A Union Of Gold And Iron: Rolesor
Since registering the name in 1933, Rolesor has been a distinguishing feature of every Rolex watch. Rolesor is the combination of gold and Oystersteel. This union of two metals combines the best qualities of each: one is highly corrosion-resistant and guarantees strength and dependability, while the other is highly resistant to corrosion and is appealing due to its lustre and stability. This embodies the same class and efficiency that characterise a Rolex timepiece.
The bezel, winding crown, and centre links of the bracelet on the new GMT-Master II in yellow Rolesor are made of yellow gold, while the middle case, back, and outer links are made of Oystersteel.
In the latest iterations of the GMT-Master II, the 40 mm Oyster case is guaranteed to be watertight to a depth of 100 metres, making it a paragon of durability and dependability (330 feet). The versions’ middle case is carved from Oystersteel or 18 ct yellow gold. The movement can only be accessed by certified Rolex watchmakers, who use a special tool to hermetically screw down the case back, which is trimmed with fine fluting. The Triplock winding crown is protected by a triple-sealing system and a crown guard that is permanently attached to the case. The crystal is made of scratch-resistant sapphire and features an anti-reflective coating, making it easy to read the date through the Cyclops lens located at 3 o’clock. The Oyster case is watertight, providing maximum security for inside movement.
The newer iterations of the GMT-Master II feature calibre 3285, a Rolex-made movement that debuted in 2018 and was first fitted to the model in the same year. This mechanical movement winds itself and boasts exceptional accuracy, power reserve, ease of use, and dependability; it is a technological masterpiece.
A Jubilee bracelet is standard on the latest iterations of the GMT-Master II. This five-piece link bracelet was designed exclusively for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust when it was introduced in 1945. These updated models of the Jubilee bracelet are equipped with the reliable Oysterlock folding safety clasp.