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Bulgari Returns To Sketch Movements On The Dial : All New Octo Finissimo Editions For Bulgari's 140th Anniversary

THM Desk
14 Mar 2024 |
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In 2014, Bulgari introduced the Octo Finissimo, blending sportiness and sophistication, drawing inspiration from Rome's Basilica of Maxentius. Since its inception, the Octo Finissimo collection by Bulgari has stood out as a pinnacle of modern watchmaking achievement. These timepieces not only broke records for their slimness but also redefined the concept of ultra-thin watches through their fusion of sleek aesthetics and relaxed refinement. This year, marking Bulgari's 140th anniversary, the brand revealed an artistic take on openworked dials - two Octo Finissimo automatics and one chronograph GMT.

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These however are not Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani first attempt at hand drawn sketches on a dial. In the previous edition every detail, from the indexes and numerals to the minute track and sub-dials were depicted as authentic pencil sketches directly derived from Fabrizio’s original drawings of the watch.

For these new editions, Fabrizio has fashioned a stunning dial that exposes the movement beneath, imparting the impression of peering through an open case back. This design reveals the familiar contemporary-style bridges, the placement of the balance, and the precise location of the micro-rotor. Each detail is accentuated by handwritten annotations outlining his vision for refining the caliber. It's as meta as it sounds, offering a captivating glimpse into the intricate inner workings of the timepiece.

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Octo Finissimo Automatic
This “minimalistic” edition offers a captivating glimpse into the intricate workings of the watch, showcasing details like the micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, and meticulous finishing touches such as Côtes de Genève and circular graining. Available in two limited editions — 280 pieces in steel and 70 in rose gold — these watches embody a unique aesthetic. The hands feature a black PVD coating and a satin finish, although the sub-seconds hand at 7 o'clock may be slightly less prominent.

Each watch boasts a 40mm diameter and a slim profile of 6.4mm, driven by the in-house BVL 138 caliber, which stands at a height of 2.3mm and is automatic, offering a 60-hour power reserve. The sapphire case back is adorned with unique etchings of "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and "1884 – 2024" in honor of Bulgari's 140th anniversary.

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Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
The dial of the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch showcases the front of the movement rather than the back, which is the main distinction between this model and its counterpart. Thus, it presents a depiction of the BVL 318, which, as you may recall, is a ground-breaking ultra-thin self-winding movement distinguished by its peripheral rotor rather than a micro-rotor. The attention to detail is exceptional with the balance wheel positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, the column wheel situated between 7 and 8 o’clock, the intricate snailing on the barrel and Fabrizio’s handwritten notes scattered around the dial.

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A 43mm steel case with an impressively slender profile of 8.75mm, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch is limited to a mere 140 units. It additionally includes an open case back, showcasing the BVL 318 caliber, with "EDIZIONE LIMITATA" and "1884 – 2024" etched onto the sapphire crystal.