Ancient Coins Reimagined: Bvlgari's Dazzling New Monete Catene Secret Watches - Geneva Watch Days 2023
5 min read
In the rich creative heritage of Bvlgari, the “Roman Jeweller of Time”, one finds extraordinary expressions of horology as artful adornment. Inspired by the innovative 1960s Gemme Nummarie jewelry featuring ancient coins, Bvlgari's exquisite new Monete Catene secret watches epitomize the pinnacle of the Maison's craftsmanship and artistry at Geneva Watch Days 2023!
Evoking the grandeur of antiquity, precious antique coins elevate the sculptural watch cases to another plane. Bathed in gold and diamonds, these high jewelry timepieces gracefully embrace the wrist with supple chain bracelets reminiscent of Bvlgari's iconic 1940s curb chains. The Monete Catene Dual Time cuff also pays homage to a 1970s Bvlgari watch design through the lens of high jewelry. Nestled within these precious creations, a treasure of mechanical miniaturization: the Bvlgari Piccolissimo movement.
Coins of the Realm
Throughout history, antique coins have borne witness to the glory of ancient Rome and Greece - quintessential inspirations for Bvlgari with its Roman and Greek roots. Since the 1930s, Bvlgari has crafted refined objects and jewelry decorated with ancient coins, inspired by 1st century Roman jewelry arts.
In 1966, Nicola Bvlgari, who held a special fascination for these unique artifacts, conceived the first Monete watches. For the new Monete Catene editions, Bvlgari has sourced coins of great historical import to adorn the secret watches. The two coins of the Dual Time cuff reflect the joint rule of Emperor Septimius Severus, who reigned 193 to 211 AD, and his deified empress Julia Domna. The Monete Catene wristwatch showcases a denarius featuring Emperor Caracalla, known for military brilliance during his rule from 198 to 217 AD.
Sophisticated Designs
With sophistication and aesthetic mastery, the Monete Catene watches unfold their ample gold and diamond casos to showcase exceptional ancient coins. Echoing the eight-sided cases of Bvlgari's earlier Octo Monete watches, the new Monete Catene watch case geometry evokes the ceilings of Rome's Maxentius Basilica.
Equally refined, the Dual Time cuff design recalls a 1970s Bvlgari rectangular watch. Its two dials in distinct colors tell the time in different time zones. Bvlgari combines radiant yellow gold framing the coins with rose gold, a signature two-tone look of the era. Baguette and brilliant diamonds, along with delicate snow settings, make this secret watch a marvel of jewelry artisanship. Cabochon emeralds provide the winding keys to reveal the splendor of the hidden dials.
The Monete Catene watches extend seamlessly into precious chain bracelets, or "catene" in Italian. Their curb chain style has been part of Bvlgari design since the 1940s, and featured on the first Monete jewelry of the 1960s. The Dual Time cuff alternates rows of yellow gold with rose gold links enthralled by sparkling baguette diamonds. The Monete Catene watch bracelet sprinkles more diamonds onto rose gold.
Within these coins of the realm, the Piccolissimo BVL 100 mechanical movement discreetly pulses. Created by Bvlgari as the smallest round movement today, it echoes the watch heritage of the past. This micro-marvel allows Bvlgari to intertwine high jewelry and watchmaking, drawing on history's richness to transcend time.
