Through the Looking Glass: The Open-Heart Design Of Breguet's Tradition
4 min read
Whether you’re a history buff, a watch enthusiast, or someone who simply loves a good story told through timepieces, Breguet’s Tradition line is your ticket to a journey through the ages. The Tradition creations are inspired by the mythical subscription and touch watches designed by A L Breguet. They offer a bird’s-eye view of the movement, to the delight of mechanical watchmaking enthusiasts. When admiring their watch, the owner of a Tradition will have the same view as a watchmaker does of the movement while working on the creation.
A Tradition watch shows the time on a smaller dial, arranged around the central barrel, so that the inner workings of the mechanism can be admired. The architecture of the movement is designed on several levels, creating a three-dimensional effect. Each piece features painstaking finishing, primarily grenaille finished, as well as manual anglage on most components. The self-winding models feature oscillating weights inspired by those created for the so-called “perpetual” watches, which we owe to A L Breguet.
At the heart of the Tradition line is its unmistakable design language. The collection draws heavily from Breguet’s subscription watches, first introduced in 1796. These pocket watches were known for their simplicity, featuring a symmetrical movement layout visible through the dial. The Tradition line pays homage to this design with an open-dial architecture that exposes its intricate mechanisms. The balance wheel, escapement, and gear trains are prominently displayed, allowing the wearer to appreciate the inner workings of the watch. This bold, mechanical aesthetic is complemented by delicate finishing details, such as guilloché patterns and hand-beveled edges, which reflect Breguet’s dedication to artistry and precision.
One of the line’s key highlights is its technical sophistication. The Tradition models are powered by calibers that integrate innovative features such as silicon components for improved durability and precision. Many models in the collection also incorporate complex complications, including retrograde indications, tourbillons, and fusee-and-chain mechanisms. These technical marvels are seamlessly integrated into the watches, enhancing their appeal to collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate both beauty and functionality.
In 2005, drawing upon the inexhaustible wellspring of inspiration represented by Breguet’s heritage composed of both archives and historical pieces, Nicolas G. Hayek and the design team became convinced that this layout – possible to see from a single side that which can normally be viewed only by turning the watch over – would appeal to connoisseurs of mechanical watchmaking. That is how a contemporary wristwatch came to reprise the beautiful positioning of the central barrel as well as the symmetry of the gear trains and balance, all designed more than two centuries earlier by a brilliant pioneer of both techniques and design.
The Tradition line debuted with the Tradition 7047 in 2005. This inaugural model captured the essence of the collection with its open-dial design and manual-winding caliber 507 DR. The 7027’s success paved the way for the introduction of more complex and refined models. In 2007, Breguet unveiled the Tradition 7037, featuring a retrograde seconds display, and in 2010, the Tradition 7047 was introduced, equipped with a tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission system for enhanced accuracy.
In 2012, the Tradition 7057 brought a fresh dimension to the collection with its power-reserve indicator, adding practical functionality to the artistic design. Two years later, the Tradition 7067 Dual Time appeared, showcasing a sophisticated dual-time complication ideal for travelers. The Tradition 7097, released in 2015, introduced a retrograde seconds hand, further emphasizing the collection’s mechanical artistry.
Breguet celebrated a milestone in 2017 with the release of the Tradition Dame 7038, marking the collection’s first model specifically designed for women. This timepiece retained the signature open-dial design while incorporating elegant touches, such as a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-set bezel. In 2019, the Tradition 7047 Grande Complication enriched the lineup with its intricate tourbillon and constant-force escapement, demonstrating Breguet’s mastery of high complications.
Recent additions to the Tradition family continue to push the boundaries of innovation and design. The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, introduced in 2020, features a retrograde date display, adding a modern complication to the historically inspired line. The use of silicon in its movement components underscores Breguet’s commitment to advancing watchmaking technology while staying true to its roots.
Over the years, the Tradition line has established itself as a celebration of Breguet’s heritage and a testament to the brand’s ability to blend tradition with innovation. Each model embodies the artistry, technical expertise, and historical significance that define Breguet as a leader in haute horology. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, the Tradition line offers a journey through the past and a glimpse into the future of watchmaking, all encapsulated within a single timepiece.
In conclusion, the Breguet Tradition line is more than a collection; it’s a time machine on your wrist. Whether you’re marveling at the craftsmanship of the past or enjoying the cutting-edge innovations of the present, these watches are a reminder that great design is—and always will be—timeless. So, the next time you glance at your wrist, remember: you’re not just checking the time; you’re witnessing history in motion.
