Your Ultimate Cartier Santos Watch Buying Guide
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Your Ultimate Cartier Santos Watch Buying Guide

THM Desk
9 Jul 2024 |
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In the world of luxury watches, few brands can match the prestige and allure of Cartier. Giving the world some of the most coveted watch models in the form of the Tank, Panthère and Santos, a Cartier watch is a timeless symbol of elegance and style. Armed with almost a century of watchmaking expertise, the Santos shines as a beacon of excellence and savoir faire. The unmistakable square case with rounded corners, with functional screws deliberately left visible, the design of the Santos watch cultivates codes that form an aesthetic signature of Cartier watchmaking. In this comprehensive buying guide, we will delve into the history of the Santos watch, explore different models over the years, and highlight their unique features. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, this guide will help you make an informed decision when selecting your own piece of horological art.

Alberto Santos Dumont
Alberto Santos Dumont

The Origin Story                                                

It all began when Louis Cartier, third-generation owner of the French Maison and chief designer of many of their iconic timepieces, met Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. In the 1900s, Santos-Dumont was already becoming famous all over the world for his feats in aviation. As he began flying heavier aircrafts, he desired a watch that he could use to track time without having to remove his hands from the controls of his plane (such as removing a pocket watch from his pocket). This request inspired Cartier to design a watch that could be fixed to the user’s wrist. While it was by no means the first wrist watch, it was the first designed for men, and its squarish face with rounded corners was also unorthodox at the time. After this, Santos-Dumont never piloted a flight without his Cartier watch. 

Santos-Dumont: Marrying Form With Function 

As one of the cornerstones of the Santos story, the Santos –Dumont is as stylish today as it was the day it was launched, almost a century ago. While it was originally launched as a tool to assist pilots, today is it widely considered one of the most coveted dress watches. The model’s most outstanding features are the square bezel with rounded corners and the decorated crown fixed with a blue cabochon. While it retains the same style and shape as the original Cartier Santos, it replaces the automatic movement with a more simple quartz movement, making it one of the best quartz watches on the market. 

A gem set Santos Dumont
A gem set Santos Dumont

The change to the internal mechanisms of the timepiece allows consumers to buy a model of the Cartier Santos at an attractive price point. The Santos Dumont comes in various sizes and is available in stainless steel, rose gold, or yellow gold. Some versions also include gem set models complete with diamonds and rubies. All the timepieces in this series come on a high-quality alligator leather strap. A Cartier Santos-Dumont could cost you anywhere between ₹3,72,000 to ₹38,70,000 depending on the model you select. 

Santos de Cartier: Ever Stylish 

In the 1970s, there was an influx of new luxury sports watches. From the Patek Philippe Nautilus to Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, these were high-end pieces made in stainless steel. In the wake of these revolutions, Cartier used his Santos collection to capitalize on the new trend. Quartz technology was rapidly moving from the realm of technical possibility and into the domain of crippling commercial reality for mechanical watchmakers. For many brands it was a pivotal moment- adapt or die, and Cartier opted for the former. He redesigned and renamed his original Santos watch to Santos de Cartier in 1978. 

Santos de Cartier
Santos de Cartier

The watch features an integrated bracelet made of stainless steel instead of the customary leather strap. This gives it a sportier look. There is a wide selection of Santos de Cartier models available in stainless steel, gold, and two-tone types with three hands. The large timepiece measures 39.8mm, while the medium is 35.1mm. The XL version adds an extra 4mm to the case width. According to the size and materials, the price varies, but you could expect to shell out anywhere between ₹3,72,000 and ₹35,00,000 for the Santos de Cartier. 

Santos de Cartier Skeleton

The Santos de Cartier is the first watch in the Maison's repertoire to feature a skeleton variation. In 2009, it inaugurated the 9611 MC caliber, the first skeleton movement designed and produced entirely by the Cartier Manufacture. Unmistakable with its bridges sculpted in the shape of Roman numerals, it is protected by a patent, making Cartier the only watchmaker capable of creating a skeleton movement whose bridges help to read the time. 

A sketch of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton
A sketch of the Santos de Cartier Skeleton

Cartier continuously adapts to modern demands while staying true to their heritage designs. A significant shift occurred in 2018 when many newer models incorporated automatic movements instead of quartz, enhancing the collection's overall appeal to watch enthusiasts who appreciate mechanical precision. The ability to easily swap out straps allows for a personalized touch, whether it be classic leather for a formal occasion or sporty rubber for everyday wear.

Close up of the Skeleton
Close up of the Skeleton

Today, the Santos de Cartier Skeleton is available in all three variants: steel, yellow gold as well as rose gold. The Manufacture mechanical movement has been upgraded with manual winding, calibre 9619 MC. Featuring a 7 sided crown set with a faceted sapphire, gold sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystal and case back. Complete with a metal bracelet with SmartLink adjustment system. The Santos de Cartier Skeleton is available within the range of ₹29,10,000 upto ₹67,00,000. 

Buying Guide Tips

While every model from Cartier is stunning in its own way, selecting one Santos for purchase can get confusing. Here are a few key tips to keep in mind before going ahead. 

Consider Your Style: Whether you prefer a classic look or modern flair, there is a Cartier Santos model to suit every taste. Try on some models before you finalize so that you can ascertain how each model looks on your wrist.

Santos Dumont with leather strap
Santos Dumont with leather strap

Size Matters: While the original size remains iconic, newer variations offer different case dimensions to accommodate diverse wrist sizes. Choose the model that feels most comfortable on your wrist and will compliment a variety of occasions that you will wear the watch. 

Authenticity Assurance: When purchasing from authorized dealers or boutiques, buyers can rest assured they are receiving genuine timepieces with warranty protection. Ensure you inspect the timepiece properly before finalizing the sale. 

Santos de Cartier in yellow gold
Santos de Cartier in yellow gold

With its rich history, there's no denying that owning a Cartier Santos watch is more than just acquiring another timepiece – it's an investment in style and sophistication. As you embark on your journey to find the perfect Santos model, may this buying guide serve as your compass in navigating through the collection's illustrious heritage and modern innovations. Whether you are drawn to its historic significance or captivated by its contemporary allure, the Cartier Santos will undoubtedly make an exquisite addition to any watch connoisseur's collection.