LVMH Watch Week 2025: Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat Souscription Takes You Back To The Future Of Horology

The revival of the Daniel Roth brand continues to celebrate its legacy of impeccable craftsmanship and visionary watchmaking with the introduction of the Extra Plat Souscription. This ultra-thin dress watch, developed and produced by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, draws inspiration from the original Extra Plat introduced by Mr. Daniel Roth in 1990, paying homage to his design philosophy and dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques.

The Extra Plat Souscription reflects Mr. Roth’s enduring affinity for minimalistic elegance. First envisioned in the 1980s, his concept of a sleek two-hand dress watch materialized in 1990, a year after launching the brand with the Tourbillon C187. In its latest form, the Extra Plat Souscription retains the iconic double ellipse case shape and understated aesthetics while integrating modern mechanical advancements with the in-house DR002 movement.

A Homage to the Original

The design of the Extra Plat Souscription stays true to the understated elegance of its 1990s predecessor. The 18k yellow gold case measures 35.5 mm in width, 38.6 mm in length, and a mere 7.7 mm in thickness. This thin profile is achieved thanks to the DR002 movement, which itself is just 3.1 mm thick. The iconic double ellipse case now features a refined godron along its outline, gently arched lugs for superior ergonomics, and a balanced profile that aligns with Daniel Roth’s original vision.

Crafted using traditional methods, the case is assembled with remarkable precision. Each lug is separately produced and meticulously soldered to the case middle by hand, a nod to artisanal techniques. The watch’s visual harmony is further enhanced by the guilloche dial, which reflects the timeless artistry of engine turning. Made entirely of 18k yellow gold, the dial showcases a clou de Paris pattern, applied using restored machinery from the mid-20th century, alongside a filet sauté border created with an 1850s engine. A single artisan spends 10 hours crafting each dial, ensuring the precision and beauty synonymous with the Daniel Roth name.

Modern Mechanics with Classical Roots

While the design echoes tradition, the heart of the Extra Plat Souscription—the DR002 movement—embraces modern horological engineering. The form-shaped calibre mirrors the double ellipse case and showcases high-end finishing, such as rounded anglage on the bridges and sharply executed bevels. This dedication to detail embodies the spirit of Swiss Haute Horlogerie.

The DR002 movement incorporates cutting-edge features, including a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia weights, which ensures superior timekeeping stability. Operating at 4 Hz, the movement delivers a robust 65-hour power reserve, equivalent to a full weekend. Subtle yet impactful touches, such as the satin-finished steel winding click, elevate the tactile experience of winding the watch. This meticulous attention to detail underscores the commitment of La Fabrique du Temps founders Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini to preserving Mr. Roth’s legacy.

As with the Tourbillon Souscription, the beauty of the DR002 movement remains discreetly concealed beneath a solid 18k yellow gold case back, a feature reminiscent of the original Extra Plat models.

A Limited Masterpiece

The Extra Plat Souscription is produced in an exclusive edition of 20 pieces, with deliveries commencing in January 2025. Each piece is a testament to Daniel Roth’s visionary design ethos and the enduring appeal of traditional craftsmanship. Following this limited release, the Extra Plat will become a regular part of the Daniel Roth catalogue, extending its legacy for future collectors and enthusiasts.

This elegant dress watch bridges the past and present, reaffirming the Daniel Roth brand's commitment to timeless aesthetics and technical innovation. Whether as a collector’s treasure or a symbol of refinement, the Extra Plat Souscription is a tribute to the man who redefined modern Haute Horlogerie.