Experience A Flyback Revolution As Breguet’s New Type XX Timepieces Take Flight
5 min read
The history of the iconic Type XX model is too rich to be summarized in just a few lines. For nearly 70 years, Breguet has introduced several models that have achieved significant milestones.
The popularity of Type XX extended beyond the military realm, attracting the attention of aviation enthusiasts and chronograph lovers who were eager to own a Breguet Type XX. Now, Breguet has taken inspiration from its past and unveiled two new models: the Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and the Type XX Chronographe 2067.
Type 20 Chronographe 2057
These timepieces draw inspiration from the 1,100 watches delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. Unlike other models, these watches were labeled as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, while the Aéronautique Navale watches were labeled as Type XX in Roman numerals.
The modernized black dial still reflects the essence of the Type 20 identity. The luminescent Arabic numerals and triangle on the bezel feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer, positioned at 3 o'clock, is now larger than the 60-second totalizer at 9 o'clock. Additionally, a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o'clock.
The 42mm steel case is equipped with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, just like the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown, reminiscent of the original pear shape, can be adjusted in three positions: neutral, date correction, and time setting. The pusher at 2 o'clock activates the chronograph function, while the one at 4 o'clock is used for the "flyback" feature. The former starts and stops the watch, while the latter resets the chronograph and minute totalizer.
Type XX Chronographe 2067
This second timepiece, with its adventurous design, is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX watches from the 1950s and 1960s. One notable model from 1957, bearing the individual number 2988, serves as the inspiration. While it shares the black dial of the 2057, there are several differences.
Firstly, the display: the 15-minute totalizer is positioned at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o'clock, and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. Similar to the military-inspired version, the totalizers are sized differently to enhance both the dynamism and legibility of the dial. The Arabic numerals, hands, and a triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-colored luminescent treatment. The date window is located between 4 and 5 o'clock.
The 42 mm steel case features a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown allows for three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, and 3) time setting. The chronograph functions are controlled by a pusher at 2 o'clock, which starts and stops, while the pusher at 4 o'clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately based on the famous "flyback" principle.
These highly anticipated additions to the current collection come in a havana-colored leather presentation box that resembles an aircraft wing. To cater to personal preferences, the new chronograph comes with a calfskin strap and an additional black NATO strap, both stored in the case.
The bracelets feature a rapid interchange system (RIS) designed for easy, tool-free removal of the leather strap. By simply pressing the under-lug correctors, the user can remove both halves of the strap to fit another leather strap. To attach a new strap, align the slot at the upper end of the strap with the watch lugs at a 45 to 60-degree angle, and an interlocking system secures it in place. Switching from a calf leather strap to another variant takes only a few seconds, while the black NATO strap can be easily slipped between the two bars and passed under the case.
An all-new caliber
After four years of development at the Manufacture Breguet, the brand is proud to introduce the new self-winding Caliber 728 for the civilian version and Caliber 7281 for the military version. These movements, combining robustness and innovation, are protected by several patents.
They incorporate all the features of a modern chronograph, such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency, and an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Additionally, they benefit from the latest technical advancements in chronometry, ensuring precise timekeeping.
The balance-spring, escape-wheel, and pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is unaffected by magnetic fields, improving the timepiece's accuracy. Moreover, this self-winding chronograph boasts a 60-hour power reserve.
Both models are equipped with a "flyback" function, which is particularly useful for pilots as it replaces three separate operations with just one. The "flyback" function simplifies the handling of different times and directions that require evaluation.
These innovative activations and zero-resetting systems have been designed for precise and smooth operation. The pressure felt on the pushers remains consistent and balanced, regardless of the function being performed. The vertical clutch mechanism, chosen for its accuracy, ensures that the chronograph hand starts instantly without any initial jerks.To ensure the movement's robustness and precision, even in the event of potential impacts, a cross-through bridge secures the balance in place.
The barrel, which serves as the energy source, is sized to occupy the maximum available space within the movement. It is equipped with a spring made of high-energy-density material, enabling a longer power reserve.
Lastly, significant attention has been given to the decoration of this new movement, enhancing its aesthetics. A stunning timepiece, with utility and more!
