Time Mavericks: 5 Indie Watchmakers To Keep On Your Radar
5 min read
Independent watchmaking brands are like the rebellious rockstars of the horology world—bold, creative, and totally unafraid to break the rules. These are the brands that aren’t tied down by big corporate suits, and instead, they’re run by watchmakers who’ve got passion in their veins and a serious love for creating something unique. Think of them as the indie film directors of the watch industry, delivering limited-edition timepieces with quirky designs, jaw-dropping complications, and attention to detail that makes mass-produced watches look, well, a little... ordinary. It’s all about breaking the mold and having a little fun with time.
2025 is shaping up to be the year of the independents, with these trailblazing brands set to steal the spotlight and prove that bigger isn't always better. As the world of horology continues to crave more individuality and artistry, independent watchmakers are rising to the occasion, crafting timepieces that push the boundaries of both design and function. Whether it's innovative complications, daring aesthetics, or exclusive materials, 2025 promises a year filled with surprises from these bold creators. It's like watching a long-awaited underdog story unfold, and we're all here for it—ready to see these little guys make a big impact on the watch industry.
MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends)
Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser, MB&F is more than a watchmaking brand; it’s a creative laboratory where horology meets art. Renowned for its futuristic Horological Machines and more classical Legacy Machines, MB&F stands out for its daring designs and meticulous craftsmanship. In 2025, fans can anticipate further collaborations under the "Friends" ethos, ensuring every creation is a celebration of mechanical artistry.
Additionally, in 2024 Chanel’s minority stake in the brand has brought an interesting synergy. While MB&F remains fiercely independent in its creative pursuits, Chanel’s involvement has contributed to strengthening its presence in the luxury market. Collectors are keen to see if this connection leads to new innovations in design or materials in 2025.
F.P. Journe
François-Paul Journe’s eponymous brand has become a hallmark of sophistication and horological genius. The brand’s technical brilliance shines through its iconic pieces like the Chronomètre à Résonance and the Octa series, both renowned for their innovative complications and precision. With its motto “Invenit et Fecit” (He invented it and made it), F.P. Journe continues to push the boundaries of timekeeping. and pushing boundaries it did. So much so that in 2024, a single F.P. Journe watch sold at an auction for a staggering sum of $8.3 million! This sale created history making this the most expensive F.P. Journe, the most expensive wristwatch by an independent watchmaker, and the seventh most expensive watch at auction, ever.
In 2025, collectors are eagerly awaiting limited-edition releases and bespoke designs that stay true to the brand’s ethos. The exceptional finishing, classic aesthetics, and groundbreaking mechanisms make every F.P. Journe timepiece a collectible masterpiece.
Kurono Tokyo
Kurono Tokyo, a relatively young independent brand, has captured the hearts of collectors worldwide with its blend of Japanese design sensibility and traditional craftsmanship. Founded by Hajime Asaoka, Kurono Tokyo offers timepieces that embody elegance and simplicity, often inspired by Japanese art and culture.
The brand’s accessible pricing compared to other independents has made it a gateway for new collectors, while its limited-edition runs ensure exclusivity. With its launch of the Kurono Tokyo Chronograph P1 Shanghai Special Edition in 2024 to the overwhelming success of the SENSU NOS, collectors waited with baited breath for the next drop for this legendary watchmaker. In 2025, Kurono Tokyo is expected to continue captivating enthusiasts with its refined aesthetics and impeccable quality, proving that independent watchmaking doesn’t always come with a prohibitive price tag.
Vianney Halter
Vianney Halter is a true maestro of independent watchmaking, known for his futuristic designs that blend traditional craftsmanship with an avant-garde spirit. With a passion for pushing the boundaries of horology, his timepieces often feature bold, imaginative designs and innovative complications that captivate watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.
One of his recent triumphs came through his collaboration with Louis Erard in 2024, resulting in the stunning Louis Erard x Vianney Halter “Le Régulateur”. This collaboration merges Halter's signature style—think intricately designed dials and mechanical finesse—with Louis Erard’s accessible luxury, creating a timepiece that's both a work of art and a statement of precision. It's a match made in horological heaven, offering a rare combination of independent flair and everyday wearability. In 2025, we hope for many more such collaborations that will capture the imagination for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.
De Bethune
De Bethune has earned a reputation for its avant-garde designs and groundbreaking technical achievements. From the celestial dials of the DB28 to the innovative use of materials like titanium and silicon, De Bethune exemplifies modern watchmaking at its finest.
One of De Bethune’s most visible supporters is Mark Zuckerberg, who has been spotted wearing several of their watches. His fondness for the brand highlights its appeal to forward-thinking collectors who value technical innovation and artistic design. In 2025, the brand is poised to release more high-complication models that combine cosmic inspiration with state-of-the-art engineering. De Bethune’s focus on futuristic aesthetics and horological precision ensures its place as a leader among contemporary independent brands.
Independent watchmakers offer an intimate connection to horology that larger brands sometimes miss. These artisans and innovators take creative risks, focus on handcrafting exceptional timepieces, and produce watches in limited quantities that feel truly special. For collectors, independent brands are more than just timekeepers; they represent the pinnacle of artistry and the spirit of innovation. Which brands do you think will stand out in 2025? Will we see some magic from any of these brands at Watches and Wonders 2025?
