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Patek Philippe Exhibits Excellence Yet Again With Eight Iconic Debuts

THM Desk
19 Oct 2022 |
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Patek Philippe has extended its collection of complications with a new split-seconds monopusher chronograph with a perpetual calendar for left-handers (Ref. 5373P-001). It is the first chronograph in the Aquanaut Luce ladies’ collection and is decorated with a rainbow of sapphires and diamonds (Ref. 7968/300R-001). Additionally, the debuts include three reinterpretations of chronographs with emblematic complementary functions. The manufacturer also pays tribute to its cult Nautilus model by presenting three new casually elegant variations including the successor of the legendary Ref. 5711.

Grand complications, useful complications for everyday use, timepieces with classic and timeless designs, sporty-elegant watches, jewellery watches for ladies, rare handcrafts creations: Patek Philippe belongs to the very few Haute Horlogerie manufactures that are active in all market segments. With a palette of about 150 different models that are crafted in small series of several dozen to several hundred watches as well as a broad repertoire of 100% proprietary movements, Patek Philippe is in the unique position of being able to offer a large selection of regularly produced models for ladies and men.

Ref. 5373P-001 split seconds monopusher chronograph
Ref. 5373P-001 split seconds monopusher chronograph with perpetual calendar

A split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar for left-handers

As the first chronograph for left-handers in Patek Philippe’s recent history, the new Ref. 5373P-001 splitseconds monopusher chronograph with perpetual calendar distinguishes itself from the Ref. 5372 predecessor with inverted displays and operating elements. The inimitable watch is powered by the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement, the thinnest of its kind ever made. The elegant platinum case features a charcoal-colored dial with a vertical satin finish and black gradation to the periphery, ebony-black snailed subsidiary dials, and red lacquered chronograph and rattrapante hands. The decidedly sporty attitude also comes to the fore with the black calfskin strap featuring an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. The highly exclusive model is crafted only in small series, to the delight of left-handers and connoisseurs of choice rarities.

Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph
Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph

A jeweler’s chronograph for the Aquanaut Luce ladies’ collection

Patek Philippe has expanded its sporty-elegant and contemporary Aquanaut Luce ladies’ collection by adding a chronograph for the first time. Fitted with the caliber CH 28-520 movement, the new Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is also Patek Philippe’s first self-winding ladies’ chronograph. It has a fascinating bezel with a rainbow array of baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires in two rows using the invisible setting technique. The engraved mother-of-pearl dial also features the entire spectrum of color sapphires on its 12 applied hour markers in rose gold. After last year’s launch of the Ref. 5269/200R Aquanaut Luce Travel Time with two time zones, this new chronograph further strengthens the manufacture’s feminine lineup.

Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph
Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph

Three new interpretations of chronographs with complementary functions

The new Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar and the manually wound caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q fully reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications. Its distinctive features are a white-gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery. The modern and at once timeless chord of colors is rounded out with a shiny olive-green calfskin strap with beige contrast seams secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. In the collection, the new classic with updated looks will complement the Ref. 5204R-011 in rose gold with a slate-gray dial and strap that was launched in 2021.

Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar
Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar

The new self-winding Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph with the automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU is the very first stainless steel version of a cult model that combines two emblematic Patek Philippe complications. The aesthetic of the dial was also reworked and thanks to its shimmering rose gilt hue now has an inimitable vintage look. The “carbon” motif in the center of the dial (a concealed reference to the decor of the Ref. 6007 in a limited edition inaugural model celebrating the new PP6 manufacture building in Plan-les-Ouates in 2020) adds modern and dynamic touches to the sporty aspect of the steel case. This watch comes with two calfskin straps – grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish – that are secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps.

Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph
Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph

The Ref. 5990/1A-011 is one of the rare Patek Philippe watches with steel cases. It has now been endowed with a new blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation to the periphery. The self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement combines three convenient and equally user friendly complications: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date at 12 o'clock which is synchronized with local time.

Ref. 5990/1A-011
Ref. 5990/1A-011

Three new versions of the Nautilus cult watch

The Ref. 5712/1R-001 Nautilus with an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator (ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 PS IRM C LU) comes in a new version that combines a rose-gold case and bracelet with a brown sunburst dial and a delicate black gradation to the outside. The displays of the three complications are arranged in an unusual but very legible way. The case, water resistant to 60 meters, the octagonal bezel, and the comfortable integrated link bracelet are enhanced with the elegant contrast of polished and satin finishes applied entirely by hand.

Ref. 5712/1R-001 Nautilus with an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator
Ref. 5712/1R-001 Nautilus with an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator

The Nautilus ladies’ watch comes in a new jewellery version in which the subtle shimmer of rose gold harmonizes with the warm colour nuances of spessartite gems. The Ref. 7118/1300R-001 Nautilus Joaillerie has a bezel with 68 baguette-cut spessartites that show a fascinating double-colour gradation: one between the cognac-colored stones at 12 and 6 o'clock, the other between the champagne-colored stones at 9 and 3 o'clock. The dynamic aspect endows this creation with a decidedly modern touch. This colour harmony is rounded out by the dial on which eleven ogive-shaped, cognac-colored spessartites serve as hour markers. The refined finishing facets of the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. The bracelet is secured with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that has four independent safety catches.

Ref. 7118/1300R-001 Nautilus Joaillerie
Ref. 7118/1300R-001 Nautilus Joaillerie

Patek Philippe presents a new evolution of a legendary watch design that was launched with the Ref. 3700 Nautilus in 1976, of which the Ref. 5711 (launched in 2006 for the 30-year anniversary of the Nautilus and retired from the collection in 2021) was the most recent iteration. It is followed by the new Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus that has grown slightly from 40 to 41 mm. It comes in white gold and a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation as well as several technical and aesthetic refinements. The case is water-resistant to 120 meters and composed of two parts – an interesting reminiscence of the original 1976 Nautilus. It features a new pull-out piece lever system (patent pending) that allows the winding stem to be pulled out from the dial side. The self-winding caliber 26-330 S C can be seen through the sapphire-crystal case back. Its stop-seconds mechanism allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy.

Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus
Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus

The bracelets of the Nautilus Refs. 5990/1A-011, 5712/1R-001 and 5811/1G-001 are fitted with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches. Additionally, they have a new lockable adjustment system with which the bracelets can be easily, quickly and safely adjusted by 2 or 4 mm for added everyday wearing comfort.

Patek Philippe knocks it out of the park yet again with these eight new complications and iconic designs.