Retracing the Journey Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
5 min read
You’re a watch enthusiast and aficionado of all things horological. When you think of iconic watches with a rich history, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris immediately
comes to mind. This watch has been on an incredible 60-year journey, from its debut in 1968 to today. Strap in, you’re about to go on an adventure retracing
the steps of this legendary timepiece.
The Polaris has lived many lives and gone through several rebirths and redesigns over the decades. But through it all, it’s remained an
elegant and capable watch, ready for any challenge. The Polaris has been a trendsetter, an icon, and now a modern classic.
Here’s the remarkable story of how it came to be.
The Origins: The Introduction of the Polaris in 1962
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris was first introduced in 1962 as the Memovox Polaris, an unconventional and bold timepiece featuring a large 42mm case.
Inspired by the Memovox Polaris from the same year, the Polaris was designed to be an ideal companion for urban adventurers and thrill-seekers.
The original Polaris from 1968 had an oversized dial for its time, with easy-to-read Arabic numerals and hour indexes treated with tritium
for visibility in low light. This prominent watch was created to assist divers, providing an internal alarm function to keep track
of immersion times. The alarm was loud enough to be heard even underwater.
Over the following decades, the Polaris continued to evolve. In the ‘70s, a date window was added at 3 o’clock. The ‘80s saw a switch
to a quartz movement and a smaller case size. In the 2000s, the Polaris returned to its mechanical
roots and a larger case, inspired by the 1968 original.
Over the next 50 years, the Polaris continued to push the boundaries of watchmaking and evolve with the times. In 2018, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a new version of the Polaris to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the original. The modern Polaris collection combines a sporty yet elegant style with useful complications suitable for an active lifestyle.
From its bold diver watch roots to today's multifunctional timepieces, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has been a pioneer of adventure and an icon of robust refinement. After more than half a century, this memorable watch still embodies the spirit of discovery and embraces the thrill of new horizons. For urban explorers and watch aficionados alike, the Polaris remains an object of desire.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection has a rich history, with iconic timepieces that showcase the brand’s inventiveness. Two rare Polaris watches were up for auction in November and December 2019 that demonstrate this heritage.
A very rare POLARIS MEMODATE was sold at Phillips Geneva in November 2019.
In 1967, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a Memodate version of the Polaris with an alarm function. This rare stainless steel model being sold at Phillips Geneva features Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber K818, with an alarm mechanism that can be set to ring at a specific time. It has never been worn and is in pristine, untouched condition, making it highly sought after by collectors.
The Memodate Polaris was produced for only two years, making intact, unworn examples exceptionally scarce. Its innovative alarm caliber and stylish steel case exemplify Jaeger-LeCoultre’s knack for combining technical prowess and elegant design. For the keen-eyed collector, this Memodate Polaris is a true find.
Created as a one-of-a-kind in 2019 to commemorate the 13 complications in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie watch, the Lucky 13 Polaris Date was auctioned in December. It features a stainless steel case and a silvered dial with applied indexes.
Powering this unique timepiece is the self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 899AA, which provides a 65-hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the oscillating weight is engraved with the number 13, highlighting its significance as the only example of its kind.
An Icon Reimagined: The Modern Polaris Collection From 2018
The iconic Polaris collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre has been reimagined for today. Inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris watch, the modern Polaris collection marries sophisticated style with a sporty spirit.
A Nod to the Past
The 1968 Memovox Polaris was made for adventure, with an alarm function for timing events. The new Polaris collection pays homage to this history while pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.
- The signature alarm function of the Memovox Polaris is incorporated into some models.
- Distinctive esthetic details like the inner rotating bezel, luminescent indices, and pronounced crown are reinterpreted in a contemporary way.
- The vintage-inspired dial with Vanilla-colored Super-LumiNova® coating evokes the original, yet has a minimalist modern design.
While honoring its origins, the Polaris collection utilizes new materials and technologies.
- Cases are crafted from stainless steel, titanium, or Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature rose gold alloy for lightweight durability.
- The Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 model has a case made of a titanium and vanadium alloy, one of the strongest and most scratch-resistant materials used in watchmaking.
- Caliber 956 powers the alarm function, with a 22K pink gold alarm rotor. Caliber 770 equips the chronograph function. Both are automatic mechanical movements developed and produced in-house by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Key Design Features Across Generations
The Polaris collection showcases signature design features that have endured for generations.
Rotating Bezel
The rotating inner bezel with opaline, grained, and sunray-brushed circles is a hallmark of the Polaris. This multifunction bezel allows for recording elapsed time and can be used as a compass. The gradations and textures create an elegant, utilitarian look.
Case
The 42mm case of the Polaris watches features minimal lines, thin bezels, box-shaped crystals, and a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. The shape is inspired by the Memovox Deep Sea model from 1959. The curves and angles work together for a sleek yet sporty style.
Dial
The dials offer a mix of lacquered, grained, and sunray finishes in tones of black, gray, and blue. The lacquered gray dial of the Polaris Chronograph has a gradient of multiple shades. Simple stick hour markers and dauphine hands provide a vintage feel, while the date window at 6 o’clock and subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock (on the chronograph) offer modern functionality.
The Polaris collection pays homage to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage while introducing contemporary design codes. These key features—the rotating bezel, minimalist case, and multi-finish dials—create a timeless elegance ready for any adventure. The Polaris sits at the intersection of sport and style, embodying the essence of “grande complication” in an everyday timepiece.
Notable Wearers of the Polaris Throughout History
Some notable celebrities have been spotted wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris over the years.
Benedict Cumberbatch
The acclaimed British actor Benedict Cumberbatch wore the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox for the making of the short film "In a Breath."
Cumberbatch has called it one of his favorite timepieces, appreciating its versatility and understated elegance. As an ambassador for Jaeger-LeCoultre, his endorsement and frequent wearing of the Polaris has raised awareness and interest in this historic yet underrated watch model.
Charlie Chaplin
The legendary silent film star Charlie Chaplin was an early fan of Jaeger-LeCoultre, owning several of their timepieces during his lifetime. There is speculation that Chaplin may have worn or owned a version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris based on photos from the era, though further evidence is needed to confirm this. If true, it would be a testament to the timeless style and appeal of the Polaris.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris may fly under the radar relative to the brand's more well-known pieces, but its discreetly stylish design and horological significance have earned it a place on the wrists of discerning patrons and taste-makers alike over many decades. For the watch aficionado seeking a refined and storied model that stands apart from the mainstream, the Polaris deserves a close look.
The 2023 Polaris models - Polaris Chronograph
The 2023 Polaris models feature two new Chronograph variants that pay homage to JLC’s rich history while pushing the envelope in design.
Polaris Chronograph Gray
The Polaris Chronograph Gray dial is inspired by vintage chronographs from the 1970s. Its smoked gray sunray dial provides a sleek contrast to the rose gold-plated hour-markers, hands, and pushers. The bi-compax chronograph registers at 3 and 9 o’clock allow for easy reading of elapsed times.
Powering this timepiece is the JLC 751G self-winding chronograph movement with a power reserve of 65 hours. Encased in a 42mm stainless steel case with a water resistance of 100 meters, this model exudes a sporty yet refined presence on the wrist.
Polaris Chronograph Blue
The Polaris Chronograph Blue dial features a vibrant blue sunray dial that is reminiscent of the blue dials found on vintage Polaris diving watches. The royal blue color gives this timepiece a bold and eye-catching character.
Like its gray counterpart, the blue Polaris Chronograph model is equipped with the JLC 751G self-winding chronograph movement, enclosed in a 42mm stainless steel case. Its bi-compax chronograph registers, rose gold-plated hands and hour-markers provide legibility and visual contrast against the deep blue dial.
The Legacy and Significance of the Polaris Today
Today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection represents an important part of the brand’s history and identity. The bold, distinctive design of the Polaris put Jaeger-LeCoultre on the map as an innovative watchmaker willing to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.
A Symbol of Adventure
The Polaris was created for adventure, representing humankind’s thirst for exploration and discovery. This spirit of adventure is still very much alive in the Polaris models today, from the sporty yet elegant Date model to the rugged yet sophisticated Chronograph. For watch enthusiasts seeking a timepiece with real heritage and character, the Polaris collection delivers.
The double crown, one of the hallmarks of the original Polaris design, remains a key feature of the new models. Not merely decorative, the crowns serve the important functions of adjusting the time and operating other complications like the inner rotating bezel. This fusion of form and function is typical of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking philosophy.
A Masterclass in Watchmaking
The Polaris collection showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking expertise. The in-house movements that power the timepieces are renowned for their precision, reliability and robustness. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of complicated features like world time, chronographs, and alarm functions are also on full display in the Polaris collection.
For over 50 years, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has represented the brand’s pioneering spirit, passion for adventure and watchmaking brilliance. Today, the new generation of Polaris timepieces continue that proud tradition, destined to become future classics in their own right. The Polaris collection pays fitting tribute to an iconic watch that has stood the test of time.
