Roger Dubuis And Its Brand Of Hyper Horology Goes Beyond The Spectacle

Roger Dubuis does not simply participate in modern watchmaking, rather it operates in the realm it proudly defines as Hyper Horology. In a landscape where maximalism is often mistaken for spectacle alone, the Geneva-based maison elevates extravagance into a multidimensional expression of technical virtuosity, radical design, and uncompromising craftsmanship. But beyond the explosive aesthetics and high-performance mechanics lies a story that deserves a closer, more discerning look. To truly understand Roger Dubuis is to step behind the dramatic façades and into the ateliers where traditional haute horlogerie disciplines are rigorously upheld, movements are engineered with architectural precision, and finishing standards meet the exacting requirements of the Poinçon de Genève. As we go behind the scenes of a brand often defined by its visual audacity, a technically formidable watchmaker emerges. One that proves Hyper Horology is not about excess, but about elevating every component of fine watchmaking to its most extreme and expressive form.

Born in 1938, Roger Dubuis grew up in Corsier-sur-Vevey in Switzerland, where he spent his childhood amongst the skilled and inspiring craftsmen of the village. As his curiosity began to grow, a moment soon arrived that would change his life forever: “I used to pass the clock in the belltower of the church. And then, badaboom, I fell in love with that mechanism. That's how my passion for watchmaking was born.”

It seemed that watchmaking was young Roger's destiny, and a local watchmaker quickly took him under his wing and nurtured the beginning of a lifelong dream. At age 15, Roger joined the École des Arts et Métiers in Geneva, where he later obtained his watchmaking diploma in 1957. His student number during that time was 208, and in keeping with the school's tradition, he engraved that number on his personal tools for the rest of his career. In fact, the “8” has now become the Maison's lucky number, often determining the Limited Edition quantities of certain watches.

To complete his course work, even his final diploma movement was named the 208 Calibre. Remarkably, it was awarded the illustrious Poinçon de Genève certification, establishing Roger's standard of excellence from an early age. From this moment onwards, there was no doubting his willingness to expertly perpetuate the finest savoir-faire of Geneva horology.

The Discipline Of The Poinçon de Genève

Since its founding in 1995, Roger Dubuis has cultivated a reputation for expressive watchmaking. Yet beyond the dramatic aesthetics that often capture immediate attention lies a manufacture deeply anchored in rigorous horological discipline. The concept of Hyper Horology at its core is a philosophy centred on amplifying technical excellence, mechanical performance, and artisanal craftsmanship. Supported by a fully integrated manufacture where every calibre is conceived and produced in-house, Roger Dubuis has consistently demonstrated its commitment to serious watchmaking. 

The early years were already a great success. The Hommage series, in 1996, featured a collection of chronographs that obtained certification from the Besançon Observatory, as well as Poinçon de Geneve. Yet again, a philosophy of excellence that was essential for the Maison's co-founder: “For me, Poinçon de Geneve was an obligation of the heart, because it is proof of quality and it's a discipline I've practiced throughout my life. It was only natural that Roger Dubuis watches should be Poinçon de Geneve certified.”

In a limited series of 28 timepieces, the new Hommage La Placide launched in 2024 takes the wearer on a 30-year journey, with authentic components and inspiration from the past, brought to life today through a modern Roger Dubuis lens. An important 30^th anniversary creation that celebrates the legacy of this Geneva Maison and its revered founder. Inside each model, the Calibre 1472 is a testament to Roger Dubuis both then and now. Combining original and remanufactured components in the same movement, it celebrates history and the present-day through technical savoir-faire and layered aesthetics. This dedicated series echoes the Excalibur Monobalancier Biretrograde Calendar giving watch aficionados and collectors two biretrograde creations that have a rich connection to the Maison's heritage.

This is only the second time that the RD14 and RD72 have been combined. Their return together results in the Hommage 1472 calibre that sits at the heart of the new series. With a newly made rotor in 18K pink gold, the entire movement is constructed with 307 components and is distinguished by 15 decoration techniques, including wheel-bevelling, tool-bevelling, rounding, circular graining, snailing, Geneva stripes, mirror polishing, teeth polishing, tip polishing, perlage, truing, internal drawing, external drawing, frosting, and burnishing.

The Poinçon de Geneve certification was a mark of excellence for Mr. Roger Dubuis when creating his timepieces, and it has remained an important feature of the Maison's watchmaking through to today. The criteria of the certification, however, has evolved over the years, and is now somewhat different to the demands for the original RD14 and RD72. The latest standards, put into effect in 2012, are largely related to chronometry, with tests now performed on the entire timepiece, rather than just the calibre. Therefore, when crafting the RD1472, the artisans particularly focused on the setting of the calibre, ensuring it could meet the modern Poinçon de Geneve requirements. Movement setting has historically been very important within horology workshops, and this detail further highlights the virtuosity of Roger Dubuis craftsmen today.

Reinterpreting Legend Through Horology

While Roger Dubuis has never shied away from bold expression, its creative direction has always been driven by engineering innovation and watchmaking expertise. The brand’s ability to challenge established conventions stems from the collaboration between visionary engineers and master watchmakers who prioritise mechanical integrity as much as aesthetic identity. Nowhere is this philosophy more evident than in the evolution of the Knights of the Round Table collection. A series that beneath its artistic storytelling serves as a technical platform showcasing complex manufacturing processes, advanced materials, and exceptional decorative craftsmanship.

Since 2013, the Knights of the Round Table collection has been a hallmark of Roger Dubuis' expressive fine watchmaking. Each episode has stirred curiosity, while representing the values of courage and chivalry through technical innovation and meticulous attention to detail. In 2024, the series turned its attention to the revered wizard Merlin, the founder of the Knights of the Round Table order, and a central figure in the legacy of King Arthur himself. The first chapter, “Merlin the Omniscient,” stepped out to the edge of the world, exploring Merlin's fabled connection to the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, from where he lifted the hexagonal blocks to build Stonehenge in honour of Arthur's ancestor, the great King Pendragon. Roger Dubuis brought this tale to life through a distinctive and complex dial made from 56 towering columns, including 28 made of genuine basalt. While telling its own compelling story, the design also set the stage for this second chapter, which continues the patterned dial effect in new form.

Engineering Reliability Beneath Artistic Complexity

As an ode to Merlin's crystal palace, the face of the new watch echoes the hexagonal patterns of the first chapter timepiece, but now with reflective new materials and dedicated techniques. Each dial is constructed from a base plate of 18K pink gold, which has been precisely machined to produce a table of holes and hexagonal sections. The watchmakers have then set 56 columns into those spaces, including 9 in Murano-style glass, 19 in polished white enamel, 10 in matte white enamel, 9 in rhodium-plated gold, and 9 in polished 18K pink gold. Furthermore, these components are arranged in heights that vary from 0.2mm to 3.7mm, establishing a dramatic landscape of contrasts and intrigue.

The 9 columns in rhodium-plated gold also feature a hexagonal diamond placed at the top. This masculine cut is a rare sight in diamond craftsmanship. Instead of being rounded at the bottom, the entire gemstone has been shaped, ensuring that its distinctive edges are visible from every angle, and that its reflections are maximized to full effect. For the first time, Roger Dubuis has also used an “invisibility setting”, whereby each diamond is clipped into hidden grooves at the top of the gold. This ensures a seamless transition, and an almost illusionary appearance.

At the base of the dial, the Maison has introduced a layer of sparkling ruthenium crystals. As part of the rare platinum family, ruthenium is renowned for its high lustre and silvery-white glow. The crystallization of the metal is a complex art, highlighting Roger Dubuis' knowledge of materials, and the Maison's ability to create original and compelling effects on the wrist. Acting like a fine diamond powder, the pure ruthenium crystals give the appearance of a glistening still lake, connecting the dial to the heart of Merlin's story.

Throughout its collections, Roger Dubuis demonstrates that Hyper Horology is not defined by visual intensity alone, but by a relentless pursuit of technical progression. By combining ancestral craftsmanship, contemporary materials science, and advanced movement engineering, the Maison continues to reaffirm its position as a manufacture where innovation serves watchmaking integrity first, and aesthetics naturally follow.