Watches And Wonders 2025: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Reinvents Tradition With The New Settimo Bracelet

At Watches and Wonders 2025, Rolex has once again demonstrated its mastery of combining heritage with innovation through the introduction of the Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct yellow gold featuring the brand-new Settimo bracelet. This release represents a significant evolution in Rolex's Perpetual collection, which was first launched in 2023 as a tribute to traditional watchmaking with contemporary sensibilities.

While many luxury watchmakers at this year's Watches and Wonders have focused on technological advancements and complications, Rolex has taken a more nuanced approach by refining an existing model through material innovation and bracelet design. This stands in contrast to competitors who unveiled entirely new models or complicated timepieces with advanced functions. Rolex's strategy demonstrates confidence in their design language, focusing on perfecting rather than reinventing. The Perpetual 1908's new iteration arrives at an interesting moment in the luxury watch market, where there has been a resurgence of interest in gold timepieces and heritage-inspired designs. By introducing the Settimo bracelet exclusively for the 1908 model, Rolex has cleverly created a distinctive identity for this line within their broader portfolio.

The Settimo Bracelet: A Technical and Aesthetic Achievement
The most noteworthy aspect of this release is undoubtedly the Settimo bracelet – a name derived from the Italian word for "seventh," referencing its seven-link design. This is not merely an aesthetic choice but an engineering achievement that resolves competing priorities in luxury watchmaking: the substantial feel of gold with wearable comfort. The bracelet's design features rows of seven small links that are entirely polished, creating a multifaceted play of light reminiscent of jewelry design. This approach represents a departure from Rolex's typical bracelet designs like the Oyster, Jubilee, or President, which feature larger, more substantial links.

What makes the Settimo particularly impressive is the technical ingenuity behind its construction. The links are slightly contoured and meticulously engineered to create a bracelet that hugs the wrist comfortably despite being crafted entirely from 18 ct yellow gold – a material traditionally associated with heft and rigidity. The concealed Crownclasp further enhances the seamless aesthetic while maintaining the bracelet's visual continuity. The special attachment system connecting the bracelet to the case (for which Rolex has filed a patent) indicates the level of technical consideration that went into this seemingly simple design element. This speaks to Rolex's approach of quiet innovation – technical advancements that enhance the wearing experience without drawing attention away from the overall aesthetic.

The 1908: A Modern Classic
The 1908 model itself remains largely unchanged from its 2023 introduction, retaining its classically proportioned 39mm case with the distinctive bezel design featuring fluting on its lower portion and a domed upper section. The intense white dial creates a striking contrast with the yellow gold case and bracelet, enhancing legibility while providing a sophisticated backdrop for the Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, as well as the faceted index hour markers. The Breguet-style hour hand paired with the sword-shaped minute hand pays homage to historical watchmaking traditions while maintaining a distinctly Rolex identity. The small seconds counter at 6 o'clock, with "Superlative Chronometer" curved above it, completes the dial's balanced composition.

Calibre 7140: Technical Excellence Made Visible
Powering the 1908 is Calibre 7140, a movement developed specifically for this model in 2023. Its architecture reflects Rolex's technical prowess while its finishing demonstrates a commitment to traditional haute horlogerie aesthetics. The transparent caseback – still somewhat unusual for Rolex – allows appreciation of the movement's detailed finishing, particularly the Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges. This pattern differs from traditional Côtes de Genève by featuring slight polished grooves between each band, a subtle distinction that exemplifies Rolex's attention to detail. The cut-out oscillating weight in yellow gold provides both visual interest and functional efficiency, while the incorporation of Rolex's patented technologies – the Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers – ensures exceptional performance. The approximately 66-hour power reserve exceeds industry standards for similar watches, providing practical benefits alongside aesthetic appeal.

This release represents a strategic strengthening of Rolex's position in the dress watch segment, an area where competitors like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin have traditionally dominated. By enhancing the 1908 with the exclusive Settimo bracelet, Rolex has created a distinct offering that bridges the gap between sporty robustness (for which the brand is best known) and refined elegance.

The decision to launch this model at Watches and Wonders 2025 demonstrates Rolex's commitment to this prestigious platform for unveiling significant innovations. While the changes may appear subtle compared to entirely new model introductions from other brands, the Settimo bracelet represents a meaningful advancement in bracelet technology and design that enhances the wearing experience – a hallmark of Rolex's approach to innovation. This latest iteration of the Perpetual 1908 exemplifies Rolex's evolutionary rather than revolutionary approach to product development. The introduction of the Settimo bracelet provides a compelling reason for collectors to consider this model while maintaining continuity with the collection's established design language.

What's particularly noteworthy is how Rolex has addressed a common critique of gold watches – their substantial weight – through innovative engineering that maintains the luxurious look and feel of solid gold while improving comfort. This reflects an understanding of modern consumer preferences for luxury timepieces that are both precious and wearable for everyday use.
The exclusive nature of the Settimo bracelet for the 1908 model also strengthens this watch's unique positioning within Rolex's broader catalog, potentially enhancing its desirability among collectors who appreciate distinctive details.

This release may not generate the immediate excitement of an entirely new model or complicated timepiece, but it represents something perhaps more valuable in the long term: a thoughtful refinement of an already exceptional timepiece that addresses practical considerations without compromising on luxury or heritage. In a market often driven by novelty, Rolex's commitment to meaningful evolution may ultimately prove more enduring.RetryClaude can make mistakes. Please double-check responses.