Watches And Wonders 2025: Rolex's Datejust 31 Embraces The Red Ombré Revolution

Since its introduction in 1945, the Rolex Datejust has stood as the quintessential embodiment of timeless horological design. For over 75 years, this iconic timepiece has subtly evolved while maintaining its unmistakable identity—a remarkable feat in an industry where trends often come and go with the seasons. At Watches and Wonders 2025, Rolex has unveiled perhaps one of the most visually striking iterations of this classic: a new Datejust 31 in 18 ct yellow gold featuring the brand's first-ever red ombré dial, creating what might be the most dramatic aesthetic statement in the collection's recent history.

The Ombré Renaissance: From Subtlety to Bold Statement
The concept of ombré—the gradual blending of one color into another—was reintroduced to Rolex's repertoire in 2019, initially reserved for the prestigious Day-Date collection. However, the new Datejust 31 marks a significant shift in the application of this technique. While previous ombré dials often featured more subdued hues like blue or green, the introduction of red represents a dramatic departure and signals Rolex's willingness to explore bolder chromatic territories.

The visual effect is nothing short of mesmerizing. As Rolex poetically describes it, the dial evokes "the last rays of the sun piercing the horizon at nightfall," with a fiery center that gradually transitions to a deep, almost mysterious black periphery. This chiaroscuro effect—the interplay between light and shadow—creates a dynamic visual experience that changes depending on viewing angle and lighting conditions.

The red ombré effect is achieved through Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD), a sophisticated coating process that allows for precise control over color intensity and gradation. This technique involves vaporizing solid material in a vacuum and depositing it as a thin film on the dial surface. The process requires exceptional precision, particularly to achieve the perfect concentric gradient that defines the ombré aesthetic. 

What makes this execution particularly impressive is the technical challenge of working with red—a notoriously difficult color to stabilize in watchmaking. Many red dials tend to fade or shift toward orange or pink over time due to UV exposure. Rolex's ability to create a red dial with the depth and intensity displayed on this Datejust speaks to the brand's material science expertise. The visual drama of the dial is further enhanced by the presence of ten diamond hour markers and a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds. These elements catch and refract light, creating scintillating points of brilliance that contrast with the warm glow of the 18 ct yellow gold case and President bracelet. The combination creates a luxurious juxtaposition—fire and ice, warmth and brilliance—that elevates this Datejust far beyond a mere time-telling instrument.

While the aesthetic elements of this new Datejust 31 command immediate attention, the technical foundation remains equally impressive. The watch is powered by calibre 2236, a movement that represents the cutting edge of Rolex's watchmaking technology. Introduced in 2014 and incorporated into the Datejust 31 since 2018, this self-winding mechanical movement incorporates several significant innovations.

Chief among these is the patented Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which features a unique geometry that ensures consistent performance regardless of the watch's position. This component, developed and manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex, provides exceptional resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations—two of the primary factors affecting chronometric precision. The movement also employs a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel and Rolex's proprietary Paraflex shock absorbers, which together enhance reliability under challenging conditions. These technical features, combined with the self-winding Perpetual rotor system, deliver a power reserve of approximately 55 hours—ample for a watch designed for daily wear.

The President Bracelet: A Mark of Distinction
The new Datejust 31 comes fitted with Rolex's prestigious President bracelet—a detail that connoisseurs will recognize as significant. Created specifically for the launch of the Day-Date in 1956, this three-piece link bracelet has historically been reserved for Rolex's most exclusive models, manufactured only in precious metals (18 ct gold or 950 platinum).
The presence of this bracelet on the Datejust 31 immediately positions it at the upper echelon of the collection. The bracelet features concealed folding Crownclasp for a seamless appearance and incorporates ceramic inserts within the links—a Rolex innovation designed to enhance both flexibility and longevity.

The introduction of this vibrant Datejust variant reflects a carefully calculated move by Rolex. While the brand is often characterized by its conservative approach to design evolution, the red ombré Datejust demonstrates Rolex's ability to create visually distinctive pieces that still remain unmistakably Rolex. The timing is particularly noteworthy. In a luxury watch market increasingly populated by bold designs and unconventional materials, Rolex has responded not by abandoning its core identity but by finding ways to introduce visual excitement within its established design language. The red ombré Datejust achieves this balance remarkably well—it's unquestionably eye-catching yet remains anchored in the timeless proportions and details that define the Datejust line.

Like all Rolex timepieces, this new Datejust 31 carries the brand's Superlative Chronometer certification—a designation that goes significantly beyond the industry-standard COSC certification. Redefined by Rolex in 2015, this certification involves a comprehensive series of tests conducted in Rolex's own laboratories after the movement has been cased. These tests evaluate the fully assembled watch's performance in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness, and self-winding efficiency. The stringent standards require a precision of −2/+2 seconds per day—considerably more demanding than COSC requirements. This certification, symbolized by the green seal accompanying every Rolex watch, comes with an international five-year guarantee.

The Datejust 31 with red ombré dial unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 exemplifies Rolex's masterful ability to innovate within the boundaries of its established design heritage. Neither revolutionary nor conventional, this new variant strikes a careful balance between visual excitement and horological tradition.