Sherpa OPS and Ultradive: A Tale of Rebirth, Buddhist Good Vibes and Genuine Passion for Vintage
5 min read
Resurrection is a phenomenon that bears witness to the immense power of God himself. So, whether the rebirth of a beloved watch from the past hints towards the divine nature of the horological forces is a question we are going to answer.
A plethora of watch companies has faced a dominant revival after their brief or extended stages of extinction. Myriad names in the current watchmaking domain have followed the fortunate trends of overcoming these temporary conditions and are being reincarnated as vintage-inspired yet contemporarily packaged mechanical objects.
Among the many brands from the past that deserve a shoutout in the modern horological creations is the brand Enicar. Giving life to the iconic timepieces from the past and fuelling the innovation for this passion project is a Swiss-born mechanical engineer turned watchmaker Martin Klocke who not only tasked himself and his small team with the revival of iconic timepieces dearly missed by enthusiasts for roughly 60 years but also climb the steep slopes of the treacherous endeavors required in starting a watch company during a pandemic.
So, apart from the enthusiastic verve of man, we sense a holy divine intervention to make the impossible possible.
So, have we ended the theistic debate once and for all?
A Tooly and Stealthy Aesthetic
Paying an honest homage to the Enicar watches from the golden age of tool watches, the Sherpa OPS and Ultradive models not only pay a tribute to the past heroes but revive a duo of cult classic timepieces altogether without cutting any corners when it comes to aesthetics, functionality, and overall watchmaking prowess.
Inspired by the compressor case styles of the late 60s Enicar watches, these modern iterations of the watches that are still very hot in the pre-loved market represent the pinnacle of a tool watch aesthetic and an uncompromising utilitarian package.
Enicar - An Undeniable Inspiration and a Worthy Ancestor
Behind Martin Klocke’s inceptive genius is a fan-boy allure for the Enicar vintage watches. Deriving direct inspiration from the glory age of the legendary Swiss brand, Martin presents a fresh take on the iconic timepieces from the 60s with his creations, the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultra drive.
A family business founded in 1917, Enicar was a Swiss watchmaking brand that operated for a few decades. Their total production volume during that period is approximately 800,000 pieces until they eventually had to file for bankruptcy in 1987.
In the latter stages of life, the name ‘Enicar’ was purchased by a Chinese Investment Group, and under the name they still produce a few models of fashion watches.
A vintage Enicar is undoubtedly a cult classic icon and tends to be highly collectible. Cementing their celebrity allure is the fact that Ed Sheeran and Alain Delon have been proud owners of vintage Enicar dive watches.
As the first of its offerings, Sherpa introduced a fresh iteration of the Enicar Ultradive watch featuring a signature super compressor case construction honest with the authentic Ultradive watches.
Looks And Technology with Vintage Pedigree and a Contemporary Quality Standard
Reinterpreting the waterproof super compressor case construction with an internal rotating bezel and dual crowns to operate the same, the watches feature bayonet compressor lock closure (EPSA-STOP) and twin compressor crowns (Monoflex), invented by legendary watch case maker Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA).
The timeless utilitarian aesthetic is transposed in an attractively contemporary package without much compromise of the original form or function. If a decent retro-inspired dive watch is your taste, then be prepared to be more than just thrilled with the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultradive.
Their debut pair of dive watches is almost identical to the original except for several nuances such as with the case finishing, bezel action, movement as well as overall styling cues. Measuring 40mm in diameter, the timepieces highlight the hallmark compressor case aesthetic with their domed sapphire crystals and inner rotating bezels. The dominant 3 o’clock case flank is an aesthetic feature as rare as hens’ teeth in modern watchmaking design thus serving these watches a unique appeal.
The Watch with a Case to Make: Understanding the EPSA Super Compressor Case Design
Diving deep into the engineering of the super compressor case featured on the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS watches reveals a 40mm size identical to the original Sherpa models. The Monoflex compressor crown technology has been revived after 60 years in a contemporary timepiece to a full-scale by following a ground-breaking innovation.
While for many, a dive watch with dual crowns is a perfect definition for a super compressor watch, the buck doesn’t stop there as there is much more in the game. The Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS are true supercompressor watches.
The watches feature a patented case-sealing method developed by the veteran watch case maker Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA). This patented case design takes advantage of the water pressure to press the case back against the O-ring seal so that the water-tightness of the case increases with a gradual increase in depth. This unique design loads the rubber seals only when required, thus enhancing the longevity of the water-resistance properties of the watch.
Surprising for ISO 6425-certified dive watches, the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS feature non-screw-down crowns thanks to the Monoflex crown technology. A tubular-shaped seal slides over the crown tube and the rising water pressure firmly presses the seal onto the tube.
The greater the depth, the better the watch copes with its water tightness!
Much More Than Just Retro Dive Watches: The Sherpa OPS And Sherpa Ultradive
Rugged mechanics, modern materials, exquisite finishing, and 200-meter water resistance all make the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultradive watches crave. As beautifully put forward by Martin Klocke himself, “The timeless designs of the Ultradive and the OPS did not need much finetuning, as their look and feel are as outspoken today as they were half a century ago. On a technical level, our watches surpass their predecessors regarding the accuracy, water tightness, and durability.”
The Monoflex crowns and EPSA-STOP case back on both models are equipped with newly developed compressor technology, which draws inspiration from EPSA designs and incorporates modern materials and production technologies. The compressor crowns are so unique that Sherpa Watches has chosen to manufacture them in-house, using high-quality German and Swiss components. Although highly water-resistant even at great depths, these crowns do not require screwing down for easy handling.
For the first time in over 60 years, a complete compressor watch has been created. These watches have undergone rigorous testing and are ISO 6425 certified to 200 meters to prove the quality of their construction before leaving the company.
Diving Deep with The Buddhist Mantra of The Sherpas
The founder of Sherpa watches, Martin Klocke ascribes to Buddhist traditions and in doing so pays a tribute to the Sherpa people, without whom none of the Everest expeditions would be possible. The Buddhism influences in the timepieces take on a legendary flair as both the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultradive feature laser engraved wheels inside the movement, containing a traditional Tibetan Buddhist mantra, making these models the world’s first good vibes watches.
Martin Klocke is a Buddhist and it was his idea to express the Himalayan Buddhist tradition of prayer wheels on the movement wheels
The aesthetic cues along the package effortlessly result from Buddhism influences and are transposed in a tangible affair with the Buddhist mantra engraved in moving parts.
The Mantramatic Movement: A Dominant Religious Affair for Precision Timekeeping Excellence
An original feature on the Sherpa OPS and Sherpa Ultradive models is the microscopic laser-engraved Tibetan Buddhist mantra “Om Mani Peme Hung” very commonly used in the Sherpa region on two of the moving wheels. Transcending the ordinary and presenting something unique, the timepieces are powered by the Mantramatic MM01 movement, based on Swiss-made Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic but with a philosophical twist.
The mantra engraving follows a widespread Himalayan Buddhist tradition used in prayer wheels, where the movement's gears continuously rotate, emitting vibrations of love, wisdom, and compassion from the wearer's wrist into the world - approximately 30 million times per year. Although the mantra is invisible to the naked eye, its presence can be felt.
Faithful And Relentless as A Sherpa - Let’s Talk About the Specs
The Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS are almost indistinguishable except for minor variations in the case finish, dial, and bezel design. While the OPS features a stealthy black DLC coating, the Ultradive is packaged in a polished finish case.
The silver bezel with orange accents on the steel model contrasts with the black dial, while the black DLC-coated OPS model is predominantly monochromatic.
As spot-on modern renditions of the 60s classic icons, the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS are purposeful dive friendly, and well-engineered to be at-home even in oceanic depths, 200 meters to be precise. The unusual case shape with the dual crown layout is a captivating element of the timepieces. The crowns at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock feature the crosshatch motif and perform bezel rotation and movement winding + time setting duties respectively.
The modified top-of-the-range Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement powering the watch to the autonomy of 38 hours features an intricate gilt finish while the case backs feature the engravings of the classic EPSA dive helmet.
Revived From Archives and Embodying the Spirit to Give Back
Martin Klocke believes that by utilizing the Sherpa name as a brand and reaping the benefits of its reputation, Sherpa Watches has a moral obligation to give back.
He says that “Sherpa Watches will donate a percentage of every watch sold and give it to a good cause in the Sherpa area in Nepal. For our first two watch models, we chose “Sagarmatha Next” in the Khumbu region and the “Nepal Himalaya Sherpa Foundation” in Kathmandu, both supporting different projects in the Sherpa regions of Nepal”.
Defending the Pricing and Final Takeaways
The Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS timepieces are priced at €5,900 and €5,800 respectively. Although the pricing seems to be a bold move from a brand that is still novel on the watch front, the watches do carry a significant substance in terms of technology and style. While the price point sure will be a difficult marketing challenge for the brand, the product quality is omnipresent to justify the same.
While vintage Enicars garner a similar price point as the Sherpa watches, genuine hype for the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS timepieces will make the prices more acceptable.
The toolish, field watch, and dive watch vibes radiated in abundance by the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS timepieces win you over instantly and the undeniable vintage connection is a sure allure for the same.
Pricing and Availability
Sherpa Ultradive - Retail price: €5,900 incl. 19% VAT
Sherpa OPS - Retail price: €5,800 incl. 19% VAT
Both the Sherpa Ultradive and Sherpa OPS are available via Sherpa Watches directly.
The timepieces are limited to 150 pieces each.
Technical Specifications:
The Sherpa Ultradive
Stainless steel case, polished, EPSA-STOP compressor case back construction
Diameter/height: 40,0 / 13,5 mm
Domed Sapphire box glass, internal anti-reflex coating, and inner black metallisation on the outer rim
360° rotating inner bezel, marked with Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1
Top compressor crown to operate the inner bezel (must be pulled for operation), no screw-down
Full crown protection, to avoid entanglement and shocks while diving
Bottom compressor crown to operate the hands and set the date, no screw down
Fully water resistant up to 20 bar, certified to ISO 6425 [4.7.4 and 4.7.10] up to 200m
Mantramatic MM01 movement, based on Swiss made Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic, premium
(top) grade, fine decor, gilt finish, custom rotor
38 hrs power reserve
Sculpted lugs with 20 mm band width
All components of the watch are produced and assembled in Germany and Switzerland
Tropic style watch strap, made of robust vulcanised rubber – black or white
Packaging: Double watch travel roll, made in the EU of 100% finest Italian leather inside out
The Sherpa OPS
Stainless steel case, very durable satin black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, EPSA-STOP
compressor case back construction
Diameter / height: 40,0 / 13,5 mm
Domed Sapphire box glass, internal anti-reflex coating and inner black metallisation on the outer rim
360° rotating inner bezel, marked with Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1
Top compressor crown to operate the inner bezel (must be pulled for operation), no screw-down
Full crown protection, to avoid entanglement and shocks while diving
Bottom compressor crown to operate the hands and set the date, no screw-down
Fully water resistant up to 20 bar, certified to ISO 6425 [4.7.4 and 4.7.10] up to 200m
Mantramatic MM01 movement, based on Swiss made Sellita Calibre SW200-1 automatic, premium
(top) grade, fine decor, gilt finish, custom rotor
38 hrs power reserve
Sculpted lugs with 20 mm band width
All components of the watch are produced and assembled in Germany and Switzerland
Tropic style watch strap, made of robust vulcanised rubber
Packaging: Double watch travel roll, made in the EU of 100% finest Italian leather inside out
