The Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) : Best Mens Watch Complication Nominations
5 min read
A complication is any function that does more than just tell the time. This year the academy of Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) has picked some interesting complications to compete in the category of complicated mens watches.
These watches feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. world time, dual time or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
1. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER - TONDA PF MINUTE RATTRAPANTE
The TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante - theconcept behind its creation was to reimagine a standard watchmaking function and aid in its development into a game-changing breakthrough. The basic idea is that the graduated bezel on a diver’s watch can be replaced by the movement. As a result, the interface is friendly to users, the text is easy to read, and the process of activating the feature appears straightforward. Read more here
2. PIAGET - PIAGET POLO PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN
The Piaget Polo Ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar, driven by the 1255P calibre, is taking this storied watch to new heights. Featuring a moonphase display, this stunning new model highlights one of the watchmaking industry’s most recognisable complications.The moonphase indicator is located at 6 o’clock on the dark emerald-green dial of the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, which also features three subdials for the date, month (with leap-year indication), and weekday at 9, 12, and 3, respectively. SuperLumiNova® indexes and a variety of finishes on the subdials give this watch a distinctive look, as befits the Piaget name. The new Piaget Polo continues the tradition of the Piaget Polo by including gadroons on the bracelet in addition to the case, which has been a hallmark of the Piaget Polo line since 1979. Read more here
3. AUDEMARS PIGUET - ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH GMT LARGE DATE
Inspired by the collection’s high-tech identity, this timepiece takes the Royal Oak Concept’s futuristic looks, ergonomics and skilled performance to a new level. In addition to introducing both a new 43 mm case size and the first interchangeable strap of the collection, the sporty timepiece boasts a highly contemporary, three-dimensional titanium case playing with textures, depth and light. It is powered by a new cutting-edge movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4407, whose complicated micro-mechanics takes centre stage on the rear side. For the first time, the caseback showcases the advanced split-seconds mechanism which has been inserted within the ball bearing holding the oscillating weight.
4. BOVET 1822 - RÉCITAL 27
The choice of three time zones is not insignificant. Historically, Maison BOVET was founded in three separate time zones simultaneously. Indeed, when it was founded on May 1, 1822, the Bovet brothers were already present in Switzerland, London and China. Beyond this historical anecdote, the three time zones offer collectors an answer suited to the modern world and to the immediacy of communications on a global scale. The first time zone is the center, or local time, and there are two subdials that can be set independently to any of the worldwide 24 time zones, and each has a day/night indicator as well. The in-house, manufacture movement powering this timepiece is produced and assembled completely in BOVET’s own facilities, including the hairspring and the regulating organ, and has a power reserve of seven full days.
A domed moon phase indicator completes the information appearing on the timepiece's dial. Its surface is engraved to evoke the lunar surface and for heightened realism, the lower sections hand-filled with Super-LumiNova®. The precision mechanism used to drive the moon phase requires correction only once every 122 years.
5. VOUTILAINEN - WORLD TIMER
The New cushion shape wristwatch is new interpretation of contemporary art of watchmaking in Voutilainen workshops. Anthracite color of the dial creates timeless atmosphere to be last for generations.Dial is hand guilloche in Voutilainen workshops.Worldtimer function is easy to use by pressing the crown inwards when changing the town and time zone.
6. ARTYA - TINY PURITY TOURBILLON CHAMELEON
A true revolution, this case has the ability to change color depending on the temperature of the light. The "Chameleon" case reflects a first color, amber-orange for this piece, in natural light, while when exposed to artificial light (6500 Kelvin or more), it instantly changes color to a wonderful green.
To integrate such a case, an exceptional movement was required: the Tiny Purity Tourbillon. Its elder sister, the Purity Tourbillon, underwent a reduction of 7mm to become the masterpiece that is the Tiny Purity Tourbillon Chameleon. Following a complete overhaul of the movement, this most compelling of high complications timepiece has been reduced from an imposing 46 mm to a light, airy 39 mm in diameter. To make this possible, the dial was moved to 3 o'clock in this fully skeletonized edition. Under this modern dial, we find the double barrel mounted in parallel. These barrels have retained their original size to maintain an exceptional 72-hour power reserve. The tourbillon now benefits from a traditional adjustment with a fixed piton that replaces its entire raquetterie. The tourbillon cage has been entirely hand-bevelled to an exceptional finish.
Read more here.
