The Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) : Nominations For The Jewellery Watch Of The Year
5 min read
Meticulously crafted exquisite designs with the finest attention to detail. The perfect amalgamation of unique gem setting techniques and fine watchmaking This year's high jewellery watches nominated by the academy at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gem setting, distinguished by the choice of stones.
Here are the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) academy’s nominations for the Jewellery watch of the year.
1. BULGARI - SERPENTI CLEOPATRA
The Serpenti Cleopatra is a colorful celebration of Bulgari’s unique inspiration and long-lasting icon : the snake.The «manchette» is also a timeless piece of jewelry as it was worn on all the wrists during Antiquity and especially on the most famous one : Cleopatra’s. This new interpretation goes further and celebrate the unique encounter between Italian design with its contemporary expression and its way of expressing jewelry and Swiss watchmaking.
Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra High-Jewelry watch in rose gold set with 3 topaz (~24 ct), 2 rubellites (~13,4 ct), 2 tanzanites (~13 ct), 2 amethysts (~11 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (F-G IF-VVS ~86.5 ct) on the bracelet, case and dial. Quartz movement. Water-resistant up to 30 metres.
2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - LUDO SECRET MYSTERY SET EMERALDS WATCH
The unique Ludo Secret Haute Joaillerie watch pays tribute to the Ludo collection, created in 1934 and inspired by the world of couture. This watch highlights one of the Maison's emblematic savoir-faire: the Mystery Set. On this precious secret watch, the dial is concealed beneath motif in Mystery Set emeralds, remarkable for its intense color effect and the complexity of its execution. The bracelet, with its hexagonal mesh in yellow gold punctuated with star-set emeralds, recalls the suppleness of a belt or fabric.
3. DAMIANI - MARGHERITA WATCH
Margherita Watch: captivating and alluring, the master goldsmiths of Maison Damiani have created a sublime creation through their savoir-faire that has been handed down from generation to generation.
A watch that enriches the iconic Margherita collection: a refined and sophisticated jewel that houses a timepiece, with a design characterized by an "essential" element in gold and diamonds, which evokes the stylized shape of daisies on the one hand and the snow crystal on the other.This splendid watch is adorned with 2315 colourless diamonds – for a total of 12.80 carats – and 55 fancy yellow diamonds – for a total of 2.40 carats.
4. CHOPARD - PURE HAPPINESS
This jewellery masterpiece also cultivates the heritage of dancing diamonds, skilfully perpetuated since the Maison invented this revolutionary concept in 1976: seven setting-free diamonds spin merrily, both on their own axis and around the entire dial circumference. Echoing the independence movement championed by today's women, dancing diamonds reflect the infinite light caressing their facets, staging a live show that overturns our vision of time.
Like a luminous halo, the artisans have set an array of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds around this hypnotically charming dial, carefully assembled in an eminently graceful and feminine design. At 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, this interplay of shapes gives life to two large hearts full of life and generosity. The heart symbol has long been an integral part of the Maison’s aesthetic codes, echoing its own values, and has guided the design of numerous creations, from the Happy Hearts collection to Haute Joaillerie and the Palme d'Or – the most prestigious award in international cinema of which Caroline Scheufele has shaped the base into a heart.
5. GUCCI TIMEPIECES - G-TIMELESS PLANETARIUM WITH COLORED STONES
The G-Timeless Planetarium is centred around the Dancing Hours Flying Tourbillon, GGC.1976.DS. Named after the Orion Nebula NGC 1976 – one of our galaxy’s brightest nebulas and which is visible from the naked eye – the tourbillon sits front and centre on the dial, set with a diamond-studded star. A start-and-stop function on the crown activates a rotation of 12 sunset inspired stones, rubies, fire opals, pink tourmaline and mandarin garnet, each one spinning on itself in 9 seconds and orbiting clockwise around the dial in 90 seconds.
6. PIAGET - SWINGING SAUTOIR
Hand-twisted gold begins with a single strand of wire, which is coiled around a mandrel and then individually twisted and shaped into smooth, uniform links. Each chain is completely unique, and the entire process takes at least 130 hours. The dial is Piaget’s signature oval shape, a design element introduced in the 1960s, and is paired with an oval cabochon Zambian emerald that weighs 25.38 carats. Read more here
Read more about GPHG 2023 here
