The Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) : Nominations For The Mechanically Exceptional Of The Year
5 min read
Innovation is one thing but combining it with tradition and technology is where the expertise lies. This category involves watches that feature a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement or comprising another original and/or exceptional horological concept.
Here are the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) academy’s nominations for the mechanically exceptional watch of the year.
1. LOUIS VUITTON - TAMBOUR OPERA AUTOMATA
An artistic performance driven by an outstanding movement entirely designed, developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This LV 525 calibre, totalling 426 components, has a power reserve of 100 hours and is the subject of several patents.
The time is only displayed when the automaton's button is activated: the engraved pink gold dragon’s head rises to reveal the jumping hours inscribed on the forehead of the cloisonné enamel Bian Lian, while its tail indicates the retrograde minutes. The mask’s expression changes dramatically – its eyebrows frown, its eyelid closes over its left eye, and the pupil of its right eye retracts to reveal a pointed Monogram flower.
Going from joy to sadness through the movement of its chin, the Bian Lian mask expresses a wide range of emotions. The mechanical complexity of the Tambour Opera Automata is further enhanced by Dick Steenman’s engraving and Anita Porchet’s enamelwork. Every single dial requires more than three weeks of collaborative work.
2. AUDEMARS PIGUET - CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET ULTRA-COMPLICATION UNIVERSELLE RD#4
More than a century after the production of its ultra-complicated Universelle pocket watch, Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to introduce its very first ultra-complicated selfwinding wristwatch (RD#4) in the highly contemporary design of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. A feat of engineering and fine watchmaking tradition, this pioneering mechanism builds on three generations of R&D innovations and incorporates 40 functions, including 23 complications, among which a Grande Sonnerie Supersonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-seconds flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon.
The timepiece also boasts for the first time a “secret” gold caseback that amplifies the watch’s acoustic performance when worn, and reveals the beauty of the mechanism thanks to the new Supersonnerie sapphire soundboard, once opened. Engineers, designers, watchmakers and craftspeople worked hand in hand for over 7 years to bring this RD#4 timepiece to life, continuously broadening their skills to push the limits of Haute Horlogerie craftsmanship to new heights.
3. JACOB & CO - ASTRONOMIA REVOLUTION
Astronomia Revolution brings a new dimension to contemporary watchmaking : its entire movement revolves around its axis in 60seconds. Encased in a 47mm sapphire and rose gold case, this timepiece is powered by caliber JCAM48B, which carries a double-axis flying tourbillon, with the entire movement's rotation serving as a third axis. A patented constant force escapement harnesses the massive energy generated by its rapid rotation. The timepiece features an 18-mirror array made of polished red gold, inspired by the James Webb Space Telescope. A spinning arrow with a ruby head, resembling a space probe, shows the seconds. Astronomia Revolution is a masterpiece of creativity, innovation and a technical prowess.
Astronomia Revolution brings a new dimension to contemporary watchmaking : its entire movement revolves around its axis in 60seconds. Encased in a 47mm sapphire and rose gold case, this timepiece is powered by caliber JCAM48B, which carries a double-axis flying tourbillon, with the entire movement's rotation serving as a third axis. A patented constant force escapement harnesses the massive energy generated by its rapid rotation. The timepiece features an 18-mirror array made of polished red gold, inspired by the James Webb Space Telescope. A spinning arrow with a ruby head, resembling a space probe, shows the seconds. Astronomia Revolution is a masterpiece of creativity, innovation and a technical prowess.
4. CZAPEK - PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ
Czapek & Cie launches Place Vendôme Complicité, a unique reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1930 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent escapements beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential, all beautifully laid out on the dial side.
5. HAUTLENCE - SPHERE SERIES 1
Showcased by a sapphire crystal with a small dome, a blue sphere occupies the left-hand portion of the case, attracting everyone's attention. This sphere, adorned with engraved numerals, defies expectations by spinning on multiple axes, revealing the current hour in a hypnotic dance. It may seem random at first, but this mesmerizing performance follows a strict choreography orchestrated by four conical gears and two crossed spindles with a rebellious 21-degree tilt. Encased in polished titanium treated with a cool blue PVD finish, this avant-garde mechanism forms a stunning sphere.
To the right of the sphere is a retrograde minute display with a hand that travels along a fine and elegant minute track that opens onto the movement and partly reveals the balance. This aperture brings the gear train into view, which slows down the course of the minute hand when it returns to zero, regulating its speed so as to reduce impact forces. The minute track and the applied three dimensional minute numerals, made in Globolight®, are fixed to an intermediary sapphire crystal dial that adds to the piece's transparency.
6. RUDIS SYLVA - RS 23
This patented invention with two toothed balances immediately cancels out the effects of gravity when a watch is in the vertical position, unlike a conventional Tourbillon, which needs a whole minute to do so.
An examination of this revolutionary device reveals the subtlety of the system with two balance-springs which are set in opposition and deploy in turn. The negative chronometric value of one spring balance is compensated for simultaneously by the positive value of the other spring balance, which totally cancels out the effect of the Earth's gravity on the precision of the watch.
The toothed, geared balances are fixed and no longer rotate once per minute in a 360-degree cage as in the "Tourbillon" version.This execution also allows all chronometric anomalies caused by the Earth's gravitational pull to be cancelled out simultaneously, and therefore remains more precise than a conventional Tourbillon.
Read more about GPHG 2023 here
