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Ulysse Nardin's Freak ONE NAVY BLUE Is Freakishly Innovative

THM Desk
18 Oct 2024 |
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SUMMARIZEarrow down

The Ulysse Nardin Freak series has long been a pioneering force in modern horology, known for breaking the traditional boundaries of watchmaking. The original 2001 Freak was a bold statement, earning its place as a beloved collector's piece and a symbol of innovation. The Freak line remains an iconic part of the watchmaking landscape, inspiring other brands to adopt cutting-edge materials and techniques, such as the now widely-used silicon.

In 2023, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak ONE, a striking black and gold edition that wowed the watch community at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Its success led to the release of the Freak ONE OPS in black and khaki green at Dubai Watch Week, and the model received the prestigious "Iconic Watch Prize" at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève, celebrating its lasting influence on Swiss horology. Ulysse Nardin has continued to push the envelope with the release of the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE, which builds on the brand's avant-garde design and technological advancements.

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Wrist shot of the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE 

Breaking Tradition: No Dial, No Hands

The Freak ONE NAVY BLUE follows in the footsteps of its predecessors with a revolutionary design that abandons traditional watch elements like dials and hands. Instead of a standard dial, the movement of the watch itself doubles as the minute hand. The hour is indicated by a pointer placed on the barrel cover, creating a minimalist yet mechanically intricate experience.

This innovative design has no conventional hands either. Rather, the minute hand is replaced by a one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon, while the hour hand is represented by the aforementioned pointer on the barrel cover. This departure from the norm is a signature of the Freak collection, demonstrating Ulysse Nardin’s relentless pursuit of creativity and technical mastery.

Material Innovation: Carbonium and DLC Titanium

Ulysse Nardin has long been at the forefront of material innovation, and the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE is no exception. The case is crafted from black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) titanium, a material known for its durability and lightweight properties. However, the star material here is Carbonium®, first introduced to fine watchmaking by Ulysse Nardin in 2019. 

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L: Face up of the watch, R: Caseback

Carbonium is produced using carbon fiber offcuts from the aerospace industry, making it a sustainable choice with 40% less environmental impact than other carbon composites. The fibers, which are incredibly thin at just 7 microns, are woven together under high pressure and heat to form a unique organic pattern on every watch, ensuring that no two models are exactly alike.

Inside the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE: The UN-240 Movement

At the heart of the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE is the UN-240 self-winding movement, which boasts an impressive 90-hour power reserve. The flying carousel tourbillon is the centerpiece of the movement, acting as the minute hand while also showcasing Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to cutting-edge technology. 

One of the standout features of the movement is its silicon balance wheel and escapement, two elements that Ulysse Nardin helped popularize in watchmaking. The use of silicon offers greater precision and durability compared to traditional materials, marking the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE as a true embodiment of modern horology.

Super-LumiNova: A Brilliant Display

The Freak ONE NAVY BLUE doesn’t just perform well in daylight; it’s equally impressive in low-light conditions. The hour and minute indicators, along with the hour markers, are coated in Super-LumiNova®, a luminescent material that glows blue in the dark. This adds both practical functionality and a visually striking element to the watch, enhancing its futuristic aesthetic.

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Closeup of the dial 

A Testament to Ulysse Nardin’s Legacy

The Freak ONE NAVY BLUE is more than just a watch—it’s a continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s tradition of innovation, creativity, and sustainability. With its bold design, advanced materials, and groundbreaking movement, the Freak ONE NAVY BLUE is a fitting addition to the Freak collection, further cementing its place as an icon in the world of haute horlogerie. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, it offers a blend of technical brilliance and aesthetic appeal, showcasing why Ulysse Nardin continues to be a leader in modern watchmaking.