Underrated Luxury Watches 2020

Exploring under the shadows, the hidden gems this Christmas.

2020 has been quite a year with its fair share of world-shifting events. As we find ourselves in the last month of this year, we may look back with gratefulness, and also with a tinge of regret. 2020 was a year that brought with it much disruption all over the world. The pandemic cancelled out many of the activities that we considered normal. However, the human spirit is resilient.

To uplift your festive spirit and add a little oomph to your watch wardrobe this December, we at The Hour Markers, converge upon the ‘underdogs’ who often overshadowed by their popular siblings.

Pasha de Cartier

Many out there wouldn’t’t regard Cartier for its watchmaking legacy but the fact still remains that the Maison is known for creating the most iconic watch designs since the 1900’s. For now, our focus is on the exemplary Pasha, the initial edition of the watch was one of the world’s first waterproof timepieces, its design specifications based on a custom piece that was reportedly specially requested in 1932 by El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakech.

A little-known fact remains that the famous Gérald Genta— collaborated with Cartier to produce Pasha de Cartier. The Pasha, in its new 41mm avatar, still remains the all-time classic.

Reference: WGPA0007

• 41mm 18K yellow gold case
• Mechanical movement with automatic winding yellow gold,
• Interchangeable leather straps (Quick-Switch interchangeable system, interchangeable 18K yellow gold folding buckle)
• Calibre 1847 MC. 
• Fluted crown cap and crown set with sapphires, 
• Silvered flinqué dial 
• Blued-steel diamond-shaped hands Case diameter: 41 mm, thickness: 9.55 mm. 
• Water-resistant to 10 bars (approx. 100 meters).

PANERAI

Luminor Due 3 days Oro Rosso (PAM 1029)

Let’s set aside the machismo for a moment and acknowledge the fact that “small” does pack a punch.

Though the brand was popularised by over-sized cases, it’s time we spoke gender-neutral in the world of watchmaking. The Luminor DUE in a 38mm makes that statement. All the signature details of Panerai reflect here: the sandwich lume dial, the crown guard, the cushion shaped case. The DUE aesthetic is a welcome long overdue, tilting the scales in favour of beauty over brawn. Mind you, dress changes are mandatory and equally easy, for the straps with the “quick release system”, where you can colour as per your mood.

Reference: PAM 1029

• 38mm polished Goldtech™ case
• Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 12 ½ lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device
• Power reserve 3 days
• Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
• Black sun-brushed dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock.
• “3 bar (~30 meters)”

IWC

Portofino Chronograph

For over 30 years, the classically elegant Portofino has captured the laid-back lifestyle of the Mediterranean and the very essence of understatement and good taste. Known for their large and minimalistic cases, this 42mm case housed with the manufacture 75320 calibre, packs a 44-hour power reserve, beating at a frequency of 4 Hz. The deep blue dial strikes a stark contrast against the 18-carat rose gold case. The applied indices here are made from solid gold, the slender gold-plated feuille hands break the sporty stereotype of a chronograph, into an elegant “on the move” dress watch for a man.

Reference: IW391035

• 42.0 mm blue dial
• 75320 Calibre, automatic, self-winding
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Day and date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 44 hours Power Reserve
• Black alligator leather strap

HUBLOT

Classic fusion Ferrari GT

Love it, Hate it, Worship it or Troll it. The relatively young brand has global recognition, a strong lifestyle element, coalescence of more materials and metals that could put any pro-diversity group to ease. The design collaboration with Ferrari does break the monotony, while bring a fresh perspective to this 45mm king gold case, housed with Hublot’s in-house UNICO fly-back chronograph movement.

Reference: 526.OX.0124.VR

• 45 mm micro-blasted 18K King Gold
• Water Resistant up to 100m or 10 ATM
• Sapphire Dial
• HUB1281 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
• 72 Hours power reserve
• Black Rubber Strap with Ferrari Design 18K King Gold and Black-plated Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp

Jacob & Co.

Brilliant 38 Ruby Steel

Ladies, the red carpet awaits but makes sure you bring more than your pizzazz. The Jacob & Co.’s Brilliant collection offers sophisticated, feminine, and delicate timepieces to wear on special occasions, season. The white mother of pearl dial is set with diamonds and rubellite hour markers, sets the celebrity momentum, for you to walk your way through.

• Reference: BQ020.10.RO.KE.A
• 38mm Stainless Steel
• White dial
• Leather strap
• Calibre JCGQ01 (Quartz)