Vacheron Constantin Unveils The Overseas Self-Winding
5 min read
New sizes in steel and pink gold, in gemset and non-set versions, with blue and pink lacquered dials, Vacheron Constantin has dropped a new silhouette for the new Overseas self-winding watches at Watches and Wonders 2023.
It is pretty much a no-brainer to understand why Vacheron Constantin has introduced smaller versions of the Overseas. We have seen a significant rise in the demand for slender and sleeker watches, be it at the discretion of a man or a woman. Being one of the Maison's strong pillars it is only logical for them to cater to this audience, whilst retaining the emblematic codes of the Overseas, which they most certainly have.
Caliber 1088/1 has been chosen to set the pace for these new products and drives the hours, minutes, seconds as well as the 40-hour power reserve. This 144-component movement with a 4 Hz rhythm is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, enabling precise adjustment of the timekeeping functions. Featuring rear bridges bearing the Côtes de Genève motif, it is fitted with the collection's emblematic rotor in 22K gold, adorned with a compass rose, and visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback.
Here’s what Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin has to say.
Why these new sizes?
These new 34.5 and 35 mm diameters correspond to growing demand from our customers for a smaller size, thus ensuring greater discretion on both women's and men's wrists.
How is the Overseas a true travel companion?
I invite you to take a step back in time! As early as the late 19th century, timepieces embodying remarkable advances in terms of anti-magnetism and water-resistance marked the beginnings of the Maison’s sports watches, such as the 1885 model resistant to magnetic disturbances and the 1898 pocket watch protected against humidity. The 1930s then saw the appearance of steel watches, characterized by a screw-down bezel and caseback and an unbreakable sapphire crystal. In the 1970s, Vacheron Constantin once again introduced several models designed for active life, including the 1975 Chronomètre Royal, the company's first steel watch with an integrated bracelet, as well as the famous 222. The latter was a sports watch water-resistant to 120 meters that inspired the creation of the first Overseas models in 1996, driven by the spirit of travel and openness to the world. This remarkably technical collection quickly became a benchmark for the brand, and its codes evolved over time, particularly with regard to the metal bracelet, which as of 2004 featured a motif evoking the brand's Maltese cross emblem. In 2016, the certified new-wave Overseas resolutely took its place in the 21st century and marked a new aesthetic signature for timepieces destined to become true travel companions.
Why didn't you adapt the gemset versions to the same diameter as the non-set ones by adjusting the diamond size, or vice versa?
This difference, which is barely perceptible to the naked eye, is essentially explained by gemsetting issues. While the case remains the same, the size of the bezel is subtly increased to provide more space for the prong setting chosen to achieve optimal light refraction. As we have two rows of diamonds in the bezel notches shaped like the branches of the Maltese cross and we did not want to reduce the carat weight of the stones, we worked on the dimensions of the bezel.
What does the interchangeable buckle/clasp bring?
The interchangeability concept is in fact taken a stage further in order to give owners a chance to modify the appearance of their watch in step with their wishes and circumstances. As they are now able to change the buckle/clasp and bracelet/ strap tool-free, they can simply acquire new leather or rubber straps offered by Vacheron Constantin and adapt them to the buckles/clasps already in their possession.Maltese cross emblem. In 2016, the certified new-wave Overseas resolutely took its place in the 21st century and marked a new aesthetic signature for timepieces destined to become true travel companions.
What can you tell us about the calibre powering these models?
For these new models, we were keen to offer a mechanical self-winding model comprising calibers equipped with the collection's characteristic rotor. As these are basic models with three hands and date, we needed a reliable, robust, and precise caliber. In other words, a movement that has already proven its worth within our collections. Therefore, we chose Calibre 1088/1, which meets all these conditions, equipped in these versions with a stop-seconds mechanism and perfectly in line with the concept of a water-resistant sports watch to 150 meters.
With these four new basic models with three hands and a date elegantly encapsulated in 34.5 and 35 mm cases, Vacheron Constantin has opened itself up to an entirely new genre
Long-distance travel begins with a watch on the wrist. The Overseas collection has been designed to reflect this spirit in which elegance is adorned with robustness, attention to detail underscores essentials and aesthetics adapt to every circumstance. True to these principles, the brand is introducing four new models in pink gold and steel, featuring a 35 mm diameter for the gemset versions and 34.5 mm for the non-set models.
A new silhouette
The new diameters prompted the in-house designers to rethink the silhouette of the models, which are now slimmer and more ergonomic, giving them a slender appearance.
“These new watches correspond to an aesthetic trend dictated by more classical standards. It is characterized by a reduction in the size of the watches, which are equally suited to both men’s and women’s wrists,” explains Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin.
Harmonious dials
Each piece is loyal to the collection’s emblematic codes found on the larger-diameter models. The hours and minutes indications are accompanied by central seconds and a date display at 3 o'clock. The minutes track, placed around the rim in a single row, features a velvety finish creating harmonious light effects with the sunburst satin-brushed decoration of the lacquered dial. The two models in 18K 5N pink gold as well as the non-set steel timepiece adopt the collection's iconic blue dial, while that of the steel watch set with 90 diamonds features a delicate shade of pink. To ensure excellent legibility at night, the hours and minutes hands as well as the hour- markers in pink or white gold – depending on the version – feature Super-LumiNova® inlays.
With these new sizes suited to both men's and women's wrists, the case design has been subtly refined.
