Vintage Watch Care 101: Secrets to Timeless Care

As the world of horology evolves, the appreciation for vintage watches continues to grow. These timepieces are not merely tools to tell time; they embody a rich history, craftsmanship, and stories that have stood the test of time. However, maintaining a vintage watch is an art in itself, requiring a delicate balance of expertise and patience. 

To understand the finer nuances of vintage watch care, we spoke with expert watchmaker Chandraprakash Pogu, POGU Watch Service Centre who sheds light on the complexities of servicing vintage watches and offers invaluable insights into how collectors can preserve these precious pieces for years to come.

Servicing Vintage Watches: A Different Approach
When it comes to servicing vintage timepieces, the process is far more intricate than maintaining modern watches. “Servicing vintage watches presents unique challenges due to their delicate and rare components,” says  Chandraprakash. Vintage timepieces often include parts that are no longer in production, making replacements difficult to source. Watchmakers often have to repair or even fabricate components by hand using specialized tools and advanced skills. Materials like aged brass or brittle plastics can be more prone to damage during disassembly, making the process a true test of expertise.

Another critical aspect of vintage watch servicing is the aging lubricants. Over time, the lubricants used in vintage watches dry out, gum up, or degrade. This can cause damage to the movement if not handled properly. “Cleaning these old lubricants requires meticulous care to avoid harming delicate components,”  Chandraprakash explains. Watchmakers must then select modern lubricants that match the original specifications without compromising the functionality or authenticity of the watch. Modern watches, on the other hand, feature lubricants designed for longevity, making the cleaning and reapplication process more straightforward.

Common Mistakes to Avoid in Vintage Watch Maintenance
For collectors, maintaining a vintage watch involves more than just regular servicing. There are several common mistakes that can detract from the watch's value and functionality. “One of the most frequent errors collectors make is over-polishing,” warns  Chandraprakash. Excessive polishing can remove metal, alter the watch’s original contours, and erase its unique patina, which is highly valued by collectors. He recommends limiting polishing to gentle cleaning and only when absolutely necessary.

Another common mistake is using harsh cleaning agents. Vintage watches, especially those with delicate dials and hands, are vulnerable to abrasive cleaners. “Opt for mild, watch-specific cleaning solutions and soft cloths. For deeper cleaning, it’s best to consult a professional watchmaker,” he advises.

Improper storage is also a significant issue. Watches exposed to high humidity, extreme temperatures, or direct sunlight are more prone to damage. "Store your watches in a cool, dry place, ideally in a padded watch box," says Chadrapraksh. Silica gel packets can also help control humidity levels and protect the watch from environmental damage.

Proper storage is key to maintaining the longevity of vintage watches. Humidity, extreme temperatures, and dust can cause significant damage over time.  Chandraprakash recommends storing watches in a dry environment with humidity levels between 40-60%, using silica gel packets or a dehumidifier to help maintain these conditions.

“Store your watches in a cool, stable environment,” he emphasizes. “Avoid locations with temperature fluctuations like attics, basements, or near heating vents.” Additionally, prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade dials, so it’s best to keep vintage timepieces in a dark place or use a watch box with a lid.

How Often Should You Service Your Vintage Watch?
For collectors who wear vintage watches regularly, it’s essential to know when they need service  Chandraprakash recommends servicing vintage timepieces every 3 to 5 years, depending on the watch's age and condition. Watches that are worn daily or exposed to harsh conditions may require servicing every 2 to 3 years, while those worn occasionally may only need attention every 5 to 7 years.

Signs that a watch needs immediate attention include significant time gain or loss, difficulty in winding, intermittent stopping, unusual noises, or condensation under the crystal. “If you notice any of these red flags, it's crucial to seek professional help,” he advises.

Originality vs. Restoration: Finding the Right Balance
One of the most debated topics among vintage watch collectors is whether to preserve a watch’s originality or consider restoration.  Chandraprakash advises that collectors should carefully weigh the pros and cons of both approaches.

“When a watch has historical significance or noteworthy provenance, maintaining its originality is crucial,” he states. Natural patina, aged lume, and faded dials add character and often increase the watch’s value. On the other hand, if a timepiece has sustained significant damage, restoration may be necessary to preserve its functionality and aesthetic appeal.

For collectors who wish to preserve authenticity while addressing necessary repairs, partial restoration is a viable option. This allows the watch to maintain its originality while ensuring it remains in good working condition.

Maintaining and preserving a vintage watch is a delicate balance of knowledge, expertise, and care. By avoiding common mistakes and adhering to proper storage and servicing routines, collectors can ensure that their timepieces continue to stand the test of time. As Chandraprakash Pogu emphasizes, preserving the heritage and authenticity of a vintage watch is key to maintaining its value and legacy for future generations. Whether you're an avid collector or a first-time owner, understanding the nuances of vintage watch care is essential to enjoying and preserving these timeless pieces.