Watches And Wonders 2024: IWC Dresses Its Portugieser Chronograph In A Trio Of Colored Dials

A clean design in a reasonably sized package isn’t a true rarity in the market but the long-running favorites of the segment sure are. Studying the relevant market options points in the directions of both Swiss and German houses, but none does justice to the aesthetic better than the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, now introduced in a trio of new dial colors. At Watches and Wonders 2024, IWC presented its Portugieser Chronograph with horizon blue, obsidian and dune coloured dials, an aesthetic we find consistent within the 2024 Portugieser line-up.

A Subtle Hued Makeover for A Modern Classic

When a timepiece is forged on a minimalistic blueprint, there isn’t much to play with. With only a handful of elements defining the aesthetic, IWC chose to refine its Portugieser Chronograph with colors that are reminiscent of the perpetual cycle of days and nights. The dial with its vertical arrangement of sub-registers is painted in hues that are inspired by the many colors of the sky. Each dial featuring 15 layers of lacquer coating gets a unique case material pairing to further accentuate its appeal.

The horizon blue dial replicates the spotless appeal of an early afternoon sky and is featured on the 18-carat white gold case. The watch with an obsidian black dial symbolizes the night sky and gets an Armor gold case for a delectable contrast. The final iteration features a dune color dial paired with a stainless steel case. The color here reflects the mood of the evening sky which transitions into the dusky gloom of the night.

A Classic Piece Still Unchanged for Good Reason

IWC gave us the first Portugieser Chronograph in 1998 and it has remained for the most part of its life unchanged. It comes as a surprise that an aesthetic with so little elements can be of perpetual affinity even as trends, preferences and tastes shift like the seasons. Hence, it doesn’t give any reason to change the minimalistic two-sub register character of the timepiece. Sure, the 41 mm case wears large but its face never feels overwhelmed with negative space, especially when the already lacking dial furniture is so dainty but not inarticulate by any regard. So, IWC chose right not to mess with it!

At 12 and 6 o’clock we still get the 30 minute and small seconds slightly-sunken registers respectively. The slender leaf hands and Arabic numeral appliques give time reading display a very fine allure. The complications are driven by IWC’s reliable caliber 69355. This self-winding movement offers column wheel functionality for a seamless chronograph operation and packs in a near 2 days of power reserve.

An Evolution That Adds a Bit of Color

The IWC Portugieser Chronographs introduced at Watches and Wonders 2024 find themselves still rooted in class and practicality. This watch when compared to its slightly petite peers feels much more elegant and gentlemanly. While legibility and precision are uncompromised, the aesthetic now gets a taste of color for its dial and the time has very much ripe for that.