Watches And Wonders 2025: Bvlgari Break Another Record With The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bvlgari has made a grand entrance at Watches & Wonders 2025, marking its debut at the prestigious event with a showcase that perfectly embodies its dual identity as both a Roman jeweller and a Swiss watchmaker. With a space meticulously designed to reflect its heritage, craftsmanship, and visionary approach to horology, Bvlgari has reaffirmed its dominance in the world of fine watchmaking. This milestone event is further amplified by the unveiling of the record-breaking Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world's thinnest tourbillon watch.

At the heart of Bvlgari’s showcase is the remarkable Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, a timepiece that redefines what is possible in ultra-thin watchmaking. Measuring just 1.85 mm in thickness, this revolutionary timepiece integrates a skeleton tourbillon within an ultra-thin movement, a feat that exemplifies Bvlgari’s technical mastery.

The tourbillon has been a cornerstone of Bvlgari’s watchmaking innovations since 2014, when the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon set the foundation for a decade-long pursuit of extreme thinness. Since then, the brand has secured 10 world records and over 60 international awards, including the highly coveted Aiguille d'Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

Pushing the Limits of Skeletonisation

Bvlgari has taken skeletonisation to an unprecedented level with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. By maximizing light diffusion and refining every visible component, the brand has crafted a timepiece that is as visually striking as it is mechanically complex. Key elements include:

-Rhodium-plated tourbillon balance and inertia blocks

-Polished bezel flange with contemporary finishing

-Sunburst-finished, rhodium-plated tourbillon bridge

-Exposed skeleton movement for heightened transparency and refinement

With each skeletonised component requiring an intricate balance between aesthetics and efficiency, the margin for error is virtually nonexistent. This demands absolute perfection in both execution and finishing—a testament to Bvlgari’s unwavering commitment to horological artistry.

Rooted in Roman architectural heritage, the Octo collection draws inspiration from the coffered ceilings of the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine. The octagonal shape of the case serves as a bridge between classical grandeur and contemporary watchmaking. This modernist vision is reinforced by the monochromatic grey aesthetic, underscoring Bvlgari’s pursuit of purity in design.

The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is not only the thinnest tourbillon watch ever—it is a manifesto of Bvlgari’s innovation. Powered by the BVF 900 tourbillon calibre, this manually wound movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, is meticulously crafted to honor the distinctive aesthetic codes of the Octo Finissimo series.

Engineering Excellence: Materials and Construction

To achieve such unprecedented thinness, Bvlgari’s engineers developed a two-dimensional approach to watch construction. The main plate, crafted from tungsten carbide, serves as the foundation for the movement, ensuring structural integrity while maintaining an ultra-slim profile.

The case is constructed from microbead-frosted titanium, with two precisely crafted planar crowns protruding slightly at 3 o’clock (time-setting) and 8 o’clock (winding mechanism). Other notable features include:

Circular-grained stainless steel ratchet with geometric engravings

Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands on a sand-blasted brass surface

DLC anthracite coating for enhanced legibility

The integrated microbead-frosted titanium bracelet, measuring just 1.5 mm thick, perfectly complements the ultra-thin aesthetic, solidifying Bvlgari’s reputation as a master of finesse.

A Decade of Innovation: 10 World Records and Counting

Bvlgari’s quest for ultra-thin watchmaking began in 2014 with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Over the past decade, the brand has redefined watchmaking across multiple categories, setting records for:

-Thinnest minute repeater (3.12 mm, 2016)

-Thinnest automatic watch (2.23 mm, 2017)

-Thinnest perpetual calendar (2.75 mm, 2021, winner of the Aiguille d’Or at GPHG)

-Thinnest mechanical watch ever (Octo Finissimo Ultra, 1.8 mm, 2022)

Now, with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari continues this legacy, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in mechanical finesse.

A Vision for the Future

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari, reflects on this achievement: “Each record has been a stepping stone. Setting a record isn’t just about crossing barriers—it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking. With each challenge, we’ve had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.”

The development of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon required Bvlgari’s R&D teams to devise new processes and techniques, securing eight specific patents covering:

-Differential display innovation

-Integrated case middle and plate design

-Bi-material case back structure

-Crystal mounting methods

-Novel barrel structure and oscillator module

-Modular construction and bracelet design

Bvlgari’s participation in Watches & Wonders 2025 is more than just a debut—it is a statement of intent. With a rich legacy in fine jewelry and high watchmaking, the brand continues to shape the future, blending Italian creativity with Swiss precision.