Watches and Wonders 2024: Bell & Ross Marries Stealth And Suave In Its New Releases

The watch aesthetic that made a statement in the face of its largely-looming adversity and announced the inception of an extraordinary genre has had to do with angular edges, integrated bracelets and hefty price tags. At a time when a core existential dilemma was brought upon the Swiss watch industry, we saw examples that not only stood out, but served as an all-out assault on our ocular senses as much as on our wallets. For the original opus, the very first and the benchmark of the concept, a flurry of imitations weren’t a worry, but a gripping reinforcement of the idea and its market allure. When a manufacture had unlocked the secrets to a perpetual demand, the entire industry attempted to grab a piece of the action, although with varying degrees of success.

In 2005, it was Bell & Ross who tried its share of luck in the renewed interest for mechanical timekeeping and the success-guaranteeing formula of watch design. At the heart of Bell & Ross' collection lies this iconic exemplar of the concept, a square-shaped Instrument line, which receives stunning aesthetic upgrades in its latest iterations at Watches and Wonders 2024.

Bell & Ross Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2024

Inspired by the exhilarating realm of aviation, Bell & Ross has established a legacy of crafting exquisite timepieces that embody the precision of aerial navigation instruments, coupled with an elegant tool watch aesthetic. Since their inception in 2005, the brand has remained steadfast in enhancing its timepieces, elevating them in terms of quality, design and a respectful nod to their heritage, all while maintaining an accessible price point within the market. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Bell & Ross offers core material upgrades to its ever-popular BR-X5 and BR-05 Chrono timepieces with the former realized in titanium and the latter receiving a dual-tone steel-gold treatment.

The BR-X5 Black Titanium

The BR-X5 model line-up is a beefier, bolder, complicated and a more horologically accomplished iteration of the BR-05. It is to Bell & Ross BR-05 what the Offshore is to Royal Oak ( not the best comparison though). The latest contemporary revisions for the BR-X5 come in the form of a lightweight avatar for the timepiece as the Black Titanium model offers remarkable weight savings. It is a full third lighter!

The use of titanium makes more sense in the timepiece as the aviation-friendly material befits the aviation-inspired aesthetic and in essence of its practicality, makes the timepieces comfortable and significantly resilient. The weight saving exercise is compounded by the skeletonised case construction making it even more lightweight. The 41mm titanium case is hypoallergenic and features a multi-component construction aiding in water resistance and ample shock protection for the COSC certified BR-CAL.323 self-winding movement inside. The case of the BR-X5 Black Titanium presented at Watches and Wonders 2024 has a noticeable black tint to it giving it a stealth-fighter charm.

The dial packs in loads of details, although exceptionally legible thanks to generous amount of white luminescent coating and the proportionate layout of its myriad displays such as the date and power reserve aid in anytime legibility. The timepiece is engineered to perform for an autonomy of 70 hours and ticks away at a visually delectable rate of 28,800 vph. The BR-X5 Black Titanium marks a contemporary expression of Bell & Ross’ heritage, its technical competence and design inspiration.

The BR 05 Chrono Gray Steel and Gold

Premiered in 2019, the BR 05 collection stands as a significant milestone in the Bell & Ross’ narrative. For a brand traditionally synonymous with military and adventure-inspired timepieces, the BR 05 diverges by embracing a distinctly urban aesthetic. While bearing a resemblance to other iconic Bell & Ross models, the distinctive ‘circle within a square’ motif is consistent with the BR 05 timepieces as well. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Bell & Ross realize their BR 05 Chrono in a suave treatment releasing the urban-oriented timepiece in Gray Steel and Gold.

This steel and rose gold dual-tone aesthetic delivers a distinctively urban style and the bi-material timepiece retains the squarish 42 mm water resistant case. 18 ct rose gold accents on the CNC machined steel case occur on the bezel and the central links of the integrated bracelet. The gray ruthenium dial offers a harmonious aesthetic of the bi-tone style and its dual counters sit in a perfect contrast with the gray dial, thanks to their golden-hued outer periphery. The indexes along with the two applied Arabic numeral markings at 12 and 6’o clock also facilitate the bi-material outlook.

Timekeeping and chronograph functionality emanate from the BR-CAL.326 self-winding movement. The tried and tested workhorse oscillates at 28,800 vph and offers a decent autonomy of 60 hours. It gets a skeletonised rotor disc visible through the sapphire case back. The timepiece is also available with the option of a black rubber strap in addition to the steel and 18 ct rose gold bracelet.