Watches And Wonders 2025: A Legendary Movement Returns For Zenith’s 160th Anniversary- GFJ

When Georges Favre-Jacot founded his manufacture in 1865, his ambition was clear—to create the perfect watch. This relentless pursuit of precision, reliability, and excellence inspired the name ZENITH, symbolizing the highest point in the sky. Now, in celebration of its 160th anniversary, the brand pays tribute to this legacy with the revival of an iconic movement in a timepiece that embodies both history and modern innovation at Watches And wonders 2025. Named after the founder’s initials, the G.F.J. is a sophisticated, slender masterpiece powered by the legendary calibre 135 the most awarded movement of the golden age of chronometry competitions.

A Legacy of Precision: Zenith and the Legendary Calibre 135

In the past, observatory trials were not just about chronometric science; they were a stage for brands to prove their mastery of precision. These competitions, held at renowned observatories became the ultimate test for movements. ZENITH’s journey in these trials began in 1897, and over time, the brand amassed an unrivaled 2,333 chronometry prizes more than any other manufacturer.

For the 160th anniversary, ZENITH has reimagined the calibre 135 with an emphasis on both historical authenticity and contemporary watchmaking advancements. While maintaining its original dimensions and architecture, the new movement incorporates a repositioned center wheel, allowing for an oversized balance wheel—enhancing precision and stability.

This isn’t merely a reproduction of the past; it’s a reinvention. The movement now boasts a 72-hour power reserve, up from the original 40 hours, thanks to an optimized gear train with improved tooth geometry. Operating at 2.5 Hz, the balance wheel features regulation screws and a Breguet overcoil, while the signature double arrow-shaped regulator enables ultra-precise adjustments. A stop-second mechanism has also been added, ensuring to-the-second accuracy. Additionally, spring-mounted jewel settings now protect the balance staff. The movement’s precision is officially certified by the COSC, maintaining a deviation of just +/-2 seconds per day.

Beyond performance, the calibre 135’s aesthetic finishing reflects ZENITH’s heritage of excellence. The bridges showcase a "brick" guilloché pattern—an homage to the distinctive red and white brick façade of the ZENITH Manufacture, where the initials G.F.J. are proudly displayed. The barrel features a circular satin finish, the crown wheel is black-polished, and large jewels add a final touch of refinement.

The G.F.J.: Perfection in the Details

A true celebration of 160 years of watchmaking, the G.F.J. embodies the essence of vintage elegance fused with modern craftsmanship. Its 39mm platinum case exudes refinement, featuring a stepped bezel, curved lugs, and a harmonious blend of brushed and polished surfaces. The notched crown, engraved with the G.F.J. initials, completes the look.

The dial is a study in depth and sophistication. Encased beneath a sapphire glass box, it is adorned in ZENITH’s signature blue a colour that symbolizes both the brand’s celestial aspirations and its commitment to precision. The dial’s three-part construction enhances its visual intrigue: an outer "brick" guilloché ring with faceted white gold markers, a central deep blue lapis lazuli section flecked with gold-colored pyrite (evoking a starry night sky), and an oversized mother-of-pearl small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The baton-style white gold hands further accentuate the watch’s refined aesthetics.

The G.F.J. is presented with three strap options: dark blue alligator leather, black calfskin leather, and blue "Saffiano" calfskin leather, each secured with a platinum pin buckle featuring the brick pattern and G.F.J. engraving. Additionally, an optional seven-row platinum bracelet with embossed center links is available upon request.