Watches & Wonders 2022: Vacheron Constantin - The Traditionnelle Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph - The Salmon Has Been Served

Platinum watches have always been an exclusive part of Vacheron Constantin’s family. From the Historiques 1921 to the Metiers d’Art, the Maison has a very special collection comprising only platinum watches - Collection Excellence Platine. At Watches & Wonders 2022, this collection sees yet another exclusive addition. A platinum Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph with a salmon-coloured dial has been served!

To begin with, this is not just another salmon dial. This harmonious platinum and salmon colour combination is an integral part of Maison’s heritage, perfectly embodied in some of its historic models. It will henceforth be reserved for watches produced in limited annual quantities and destined for Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

This new salmon-coloured platinum watch embodies all the watchmaking codes of a Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph. From dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track to a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back, the salmon bears it all. Given that it is a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, Vacheron Constantin has carefully orchestrated the legibility of the dial. The white gold hands and hour-markers indicate the time whereas the chronograph and date functions are indicated by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter too are symmetrically balanced. The moon phase that peeks out on a platinum disc at 6 o'clock, is integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycles are read through an aperture in the upper part of the dial. The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

The dial of this signature combination is quite meticulously crafted. The small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin-brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference of the date numerals. Going back to the 19th-century table watches the platinum disc, bears a polished raised moon surrounded by stars against a frosted background. And that final detail that accentuates the exclusive nature of this new interpretation is a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross right beneath 12 o'clock. 

The new platinum salmon-coloured Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is driven by Calibre 1142 QP, which dates back to the 1940s. The calibre is distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture along with its reliability and precision that is enhanced by its column-wheel system. This movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria. 

Another notable factor is the movement finishing here. Flip it around and you will witness a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks through the sapphire crystal case back. 

Available with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp, this watch offering chronograph and perpetual calendar functions features two of the most prestigious horological complications, while being eminently suitable for everyday use – an extremely attractive combination in the world of time measurement.