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Chasing Perfection: The Extremity Of Watchmaking Craft In Piaget Bracelets

THM Desk
30 Nov 2024 |
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In 1943, it had been almost 70 years since watchmaker Georges-Édouard Piaget found his workshop in the Swiss Jura. Yet Piaget didn’t have a trademark registered to its name. When it finally did, it had matured into one of Switzerland's most capable mechanical movement manufacturers. With Piaget’s name starting to appear on the dials, the shift of an inclination towards catering the opulence of the era, which sustained until the ’70s, was evident in the extravagance of crafts practiced at the then and now-reputed Maison constantly seducing the aristocracy and the iconic.

One aspect where the crafts at Piaget have been extensively exercised with an absolute shut-eye to reason is the masterful bracelet construction at the multi-generational watch and jewelry Maison founded in 1874. Piaget gold bracelets truly elevate its creations as the darlings of high society. This is the purest derivative of non-hype defined standards of excellence in Swiss haute horlogerie, unfortunately, a prowess fading within the region.

Exquisite Bracelet Origins: A Focus On The Dress End Of The Watch Market
At Piaget, the emphasis on dressier aesthetics was established, and reinforced for the modern era, with the development and evolution of its ultra-thin caliber 9P. At just 2mm, this unbelievable for its time caliber from 1957 sanctioned the execution of some truly hallmark horological inceptions of the mid-20th century. In a duet orchestrated with its automatic-winding sibling, the caliber 12P, caliber 9P premiered the exquisite lingo for all future Piaget ultra-thin calibers.

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Piaget ultra-thin caliber 9P.

Instituting an intent to master the ultra-thin in haute horlogerie, Piaget leveraged the caliber 9P as a foundational blueprint upon which a legacy of aesthetic timepieces paired with crafted gold bracelets found its genesis. These were beyond anything produced during the era and to be honest, a significant rarity in any current-age collection example. Although these are almost regrettably extinct from Piaget’s contemporary feminine line-up, their aura exists in an almost infinite variety of sophisticated gold bracelet timepieces that peak the demonstration of Piaget’s mastery of goldsmithing crafts achieved at imaginative levels of finesse.

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A Piaget gold bracelet being made.

Piaget’s Aurophilic Exploits: A Specialist in Goldsmithing
Piaget of the mid-20th century found an intense parallel in the fashion and jewelry industry. With gold adornments complementing the lavish upscaling of the then lifestyles, early '60s Piaget found it fitting to integrate with its movement-making workshop, a dedicated facility for goldsmithing. It would also rely on a new troupe of craftspeople specialized in jewelry making, dedicated to crafting its exquisite gold bracelets. Even as of today, Piaget finds itself almost exclusive as a manufacture with an in-house gold smelting competence. This resulted in Piaget experimenting and functioning at the highest possible echelon of gold engraving and bracelet making while dishing out a portfolio with divergent aesthetic attributes.

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The early Piaget catalog features an extensive selection of gold watches.

Only a few realize the absence of the actual possible volume of vintage Piaget gold timepieces. An immeasurable lot got melted by dealers who valued the metal more than the watches. This has recently changed, accredited to a favorable spike in the collectability allure of vintage Piaget. Alas!

Ornamental Extravagance: Piaget Gold Bracelets
Piaget practiced a very obscure trend for its feminine creations which for the better were much outlying at the far-end spectrum of exceptional artistry. As a wonderful aside to the “usual” ladies’ watch recipe of a gem set precious metal form-defined entity, Piaget ladies’ watches were anything but usual. Of course, the artistry was exceptional for their mechanical part, the true prowess of craftsmanship was evident and unapologetically exhibited in the creation of their bracelets which were the most complicated in the industry and remain so today.

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Piaget gold bracelets remain popular to this day.



Despite we being just kids walking around in grown up bodies, dainty jewelry watches aren’t that inspiring for many. With the current inclination towards beefed-up proportions even in the ladies’ segment, the over-ornate expressions of mechanical timekeeping artistry struggle to maintain mainstream relevancy and sellability. The economics however stand futile when aesthetics reach the extremities of elegance in Piaget’s opulent gold bracelet watches which make the masses succumb to their seductively illustrious entice.

Complicated Bracelets: A Piaget Speciality
As already established, the amalgam of sophisticated movement manufacture with complicated bracelet designs has been a defining lingo at Piaget. The recipe expresses an out-of-the-world charm that remains atypical even for the Swiss watch industry. For the Maison’s exquisite jewelry pieces built from the finest material Earth has to offer, some dead animal’s skin wasn’t going to make the cut. It had to be gold!

To turn the heavy and inflexible material into a very light and delicate bracelet, the jewelers at Piaget, of all the places, turned attention to a medieval craft: chainmail. Remember the flexible metal armor worn by almost everyone in Game of Thrones giving them a fervent yet short-lived sense of immortality, yes, that’s a result of chainmail. The technique involves assembling hundreds of individual metal rings by hand to piece together a solid yet less restrictive metallic fabric. Well, for Piaget craftspeople, they just need to replicate the same at a microscopic level. Piaget chain bracelets approach nearly a thousand individual rings, each meticulously formed manually with every single link soldered by hand. All this eventuates at a scale that my hyperopic eyes have effortlessly deemed invisible.

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A chainmail bracelet execution for a gold ladies' timepiece.

Piaget bracelets are inceptive. That’s what their chain bracelets prove and you can agree to that with a nod. Thanks. But let me tell you, those Piaget guys have gone beyond and literally outdone themselves. Well, to any reasonable person’s understanding, no metal bracelet could possibly feel as smooth and consistent as any fabric strap. It’s a given of even the most mediocre learning in materials and to be honest, our gifted sense of touch. What if I tell you Piaget does a gold mesh bracelet almost as fine as any nylon strap. Replicating a weave of threads of the finest quality, but materializing from gold, Piaget mesh bracelets give the metal an organic feel of fabric with a truly unnoticeable or to say the least, seamless arrangement. The mesh transpires from weaving a tight stitch of gold wire around gold pins to yield a glittering but delicate feel and look. This marks the inception of metal fabric finer than a nylon strap.

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Piaget mesh bracelet (Source - Cileone Jewelers)

At Piaget, the extremities of refinement in watch bracelet craft pivot towards something even more outrageous. Yes, even more than what you’ve learnt above. While both the chainmail and mesh weave bracelets are, at least to say, ridiculously impossible in feel to the materials they are crafted with, there’s one step to betterment that remains: achieving the absolutely seamless finish and uniform appearance of a leather strap. At Piaget, they never give up, even in ambitions that feel to the likes of you and me, unrealistic expectations.

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Piaget mesh bracelet construction (Source - PIAGET for PuristSPro)

There’s one aspect that makes natural leather, or for that matter every faux leather, strap uniquely fit for the wrist and that’s: suppleness. Wrapping around the wrist with micrometric precision for maximum comfort and elegance, every leather strap is a bespoke wrist adornment that drapes without leaving no space in between and actually offers the smoothest finish. This is quite unchartered territory for gold bracelets. Not for the master craftsperson at Piaget!

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Piaget Palace Décor bracelet with brick design (Credits: Analog:Shift)

For realizing a bracelet that literally serves the look of a solid piece of metal, the trick is simple to explain but infinitely intricate to execute: create the finest bracelet with the tiniest links spaced fractions of millimeters apart. At this scale, the precision on the bracelet can’t afford to be anything but absolute. Each incredibly petite link has to connect with the adjacent link with literally no visible gap in between, that means tolerances that would put even the finest jewelry bracelet, with literally no function to perform other than aesthetic embellishment, to shame. This is the sacred appeal of Piaget’s Palace Décor bracelets. It achieves a fitment and finish that is beyond perfect. What it yields is something impossible: an unbroken gold metal surface. At this point, anyone else would just post a million Instagram updates marveling the extravagance of the feat. But not Piaget. For them, this is just step number one! The hard bit follows.

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Piaget Palace Décor bracelet.

What remains is hand engraving of this Palace Décor bracelet on the business surface to make even the already impossible to comprehend space between adjacent links disappear completely. A hand-crafted motif executed at a very fine level achieves the end result. At Piaget, these motifs have been realized in more than a hundred artistic creations, each delicately inscribed by hand under a microscope. Only a handful of humans can do it and it seems that all find their employment at Piaget very dear.

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Credits: Touch of Modern

This inception of experimental and extensively ornate tendencies at Piaget emanated from its golden era, which we carefully date for the second half of the previous century. This is flamboyance executed at the highest level and worthy of every applaud from the watch community. As rare as the craft itself, the distinguished individuals executing the same combine many decades of skill evolution. These bracelets are beyond masterpieces, they are the absolute pinnacle in the chase to perfection and in the executions mentioned above, they find the highest echelons in handicrafts which lie beyond the tangible.