Last week the entire city of Geneva was brimming with tourbillon and chronograph energy owing to some spectacular launches at Watches And Wonders 2023. But, some subtle launches from brands at AHCI will surely take you by surprise.
First things first. This brand has an explanation for the delay in unveiling the new model. The HANDwerk line’s success, combined with KUDOKE 2’s 2019 GPHG victory, has been too much for them to handle. The constant need has tied up all of their resources. In response, they’ve increased their workforce and broken ground on a brand-new, larger factory.
After the success of the first two models in the HANDwerk collection, KUDOKE 1 and KUDOKE 2, as well as numerous variations and limited editions, the third model in this series was unveiled in Geneva, Switzerland, from March 27 to April 2, 2023, as part of the exhibition “Masters of Horology” of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). Also, besides KUDOKE 3, what else could it be called?
Like the first two versions, this watch bears the unmistakable hallmark of the HANDwerk collection. The dial’s matte frosted surface and repeated applied elements create a sense of refined simplicity. However, it differs greatly from its forerunners in terms of the dial side. For KUDOKE 3, Stefan Kudoke chose an unusual method of displaying the time after being inspired by vintage English pocket watches in the style of the HANDwerk line.
The large blued steel hand “classically” indicates the minutes at the top of the dial ring, while the hour indication is located on a plate divided into three sections at the level of the dial below.
The hour is shown by a hand that runs between the two dials and has three arms of varying lengths. When one hand’s arm reaches the final hour marker, the next longer or shorter arm will appear at the first marker of the following hour. Next, the current hand arm displays the numbers 2, 6, and 10 twice, each time at a different size. Unique in its simplicity.
But the devil is in the details, as is so often the case in life. As such, the HANDwerk collection’s infinity symbol—an infinity sign—can be found in this prototype as well. In addition to being printed on the minute ring at the position of 60, which bridges the end and beginning of each hour, it is also integrated into the tip of the minute hand. The three-legged hour hand inverts this sign. These “finite” hands would go well with an infinity symbol, much like Yin and Yang. context of the entire world.
The gently curving wave shape of the hour plate on the silver-plated dial below is mirrored on the rhodinized upper dial with the balancing logo plate. Minute indicators 10, 20, 40, and 50 are represented by four screws that secure them to the lower dial alongside the minute ring. The dial of the watch has impressive depth thanks to the various levels and tasteful colouring. Light can be played with in interesting ways thanks to the diamond-cut edges on the hour plate, logo plate, and minute chapter ring.
The heart of this classic yet extravagant watch, KALIBER 1, is exposed through the sapphire crystal case back. The understated 39 mm stainless steel case with a classic onion crown and 10.3 mm case height provides an appropriate setting for this watch.
Priced at EUR 9350 excluding VAT
- W: 39mm, H: 10.3 mm
- Polished stainless steel / 18 ct Rose Gold (5N) on special order
- Fluted onion crown
- Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback
- 5 ATM/50m water resistance
Dial & Hands:
- Frosted two-part dial, silvered/ rhodinized, with rhodinized chapter ring on top dial and plate to indicate hours in three sections on dial below
- Flame tempered blued steel hands, minute hand with infinity symbol, three-arm hour hand
- In-house Kaliber 1 manual winding
- W: 30mm, H: 4.3 mm
- 18 jewels
- 28,800 vib/h (4Hz)
- 46 hours power reserve
- Frosted hand-finish of wheel bridge
- Hand-engraved balance cock with infinity symbol
Strap & Buckle:
Leather or Alcantara strap
Stainless steel pin buckle/ 18 ct Rose Gold on special order/ electively folding clasp stainless steel