The future of Hyper Horology. Gregory Bruttin, Product Strategy Director – at Roger Dubuis, takes us through the excess and extravagance. In a powerful display of Roger Dubuis’ penchant for exceeding every expectation, The Hour Markers discovers the NEW Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, with the man himself.
The Hour Markers: Skeleton Double-Tourbillon’s have been executed by Roger Dubuis in the past. What sets this apart from the earlier versions?
Gregory Bruttin: This product is a total redesign of our initial product in term of both technicality and aesthetics. It was developed in consideration of the Excalibur’s evolution in the last 15 years, as well as the expectations of our customers.
At Roger Dubuis, we strive to ensure that our timepieces are always at the forefront of these two elements, and the radical evolution of our iconic double tourbillon is the perfect example. On the case, we have also used pink gold – developing a special shade with a hardness higher than standard gold but also a color inalterability over time.
THM: What are the new features, refinements and technical developments in the new calibre RD108SQ?
GB: Technically, we have oriented our development by focusing on the perception and expectations of the customer.
We wanted to increase the power reserve from 48 hours to 72 hours, which allows an improved stability of operation, and to be able to put the watch down during the weekend and take it back on Monday morning without stopping. This increase has been possible thanks to our know-how acquired over the last 15 years – through this, we have completely rebuilt our differential to optimize its operation. We have also reviewed the entire tourbillon cage, replacing most of the components with titanium, which allows us to lighten it so that it resists better to shocks but also that the watch has better resistance to magnetic fields.
THM: The skeleton bridges seem more 3D, have more depth. How did the technical team come about in doing that?
GB: Aesthetic work is an important element of this caliber. We have worked to exploit the height of the movement to the maximum in order to be able to express ourselves as much as possible.
At Roger Dubuis, we like to say that technique is at the service of aesthetics, and this is why our watches are so specific. This product is a perfect example of our approach.
THM: The Excalibur become an important pillar over the years at Roger Dubuis. Could you shed some light on how that came to be?
GB: The product is recognisable thanks to the combination of its original case which leaves a lot of space, due to the opening of the bezel. Also, its contemporary skeleton movement has defined the new standard of contemporary watches in recent years.
THM: We also see subtle refinement in the design of the strap. Additional contours.
Also, do tell us about the innovation of the now adapted easy- interchangeable concept.
GB: We also wanted to get closer to the needs of our customers on this aspect. Being able to match your watch with your outfit or mood is something that corresponds more and more to the evolution of our lifestyle. Regarding the material, the alligator strap is a standard in luxury watchmaking, and believe that it is our duty and responsibility to offer an alternative to this traditional offer.
THM: Most of the Manufacture Roger Dubuis calibres are with the Poinçon de Genève. What is the biggest challenge in manufacturing and production with extensive skeletonisation, as is with the RD108SQ, while observing and maintaining the norms of the Poinçon de Genève?
GB: On this product, we wanted to have a new approach in terms of termination. We felt that the perlage and the Cote de Genève did not correspond to a contemporary design for a skeleton.
Thanks to our artisans, we developed never-seen-before combinations. Doing this, in respect of the Poinçon de Genève, was a challenging but extremely interesting exercise that allows us today to offer an aesthetic more unique than ever.
THM: With just 8 pieces for production for the RDDBEX0920, it sure is a special watch. We see that it has been equipped with a 10 BAR water-resistance. Do you really foresee individuals using an expensive and a sensitive watch (double tourbillon) being used for sport?
GB: The watchmaking market has significantly evolved in this regard. Customers purchase watches because they like them, and rarely ask which situation they should wear it.
This is why we have completely reviewed a good number of the technical elements in order to be able to respond to these new wearing criteria.
THM: From a practical aspect, while most manufacturers do make sure the low- light legibility stands a chance with the hands and hour-markers coated in luminescent compound. With this watch, we don’t see any. Do shed some light on the same?
GB: Luminescence is an integral part of the Maison, as you have seen with the Excalibur Two-Fold and Blacklight. This product can also be read at night thanks to luminous elements on the hands and indexes.