Audemars Piguet Unveils Calibre 7138: The Future of Perpetual Calendar Watches

As Audemars Piguet marks its 150th anniversary, the brand unveils a game-changing innovation in horology—Calibre 7138, a next-generation selfwinding perpetual calendar movement. This remarkable movement not only builds on Audemars Piguet’s legacy of exceptional craftsmanship but also redefines user experience with its intuitive “all-in-one” crown. A true breakthrough in perpetual calendar complications, this new mechanism, years in the making, promises to transform how we interact with these intricate timepieces, seamlessly integrating the timeless art of watchmaking with the demands of modern life.

The Future of Perpetual Calendars

Historically, perpetual calendar wristwatches required small tools and correctors on the side of the case to adjust the date, month, day, and moon phase. These manual adjustments could be tedious, especially if the watch was unworn for an extended period. Audemars Piguet has revolutionized this process with a new, ergonomically-designed “all-in-one” crown. This crown allows users to make all necessary corrections with ease, eliminating the need for additional tools and minimizing the risk of damaging the movement. By incorporating four different positions, the crown allows users to wind the watch, set the date, adjust the time, and configure the moon phases, all through a simple, intuitive mechanism.

The mechanical complexity behind this simplicity is no less impressive. The movement features an innovative lever and wandering wheels system, enabling smooth, tool-free corrections. This advanced system is protected by two patents—one for the crown’s 2' position and another for the crown’s ability to adjust both the date and month. This thoughtful integration of ergonomics into the traditional perpetual calendar system marks a significant evolution in watchmaking.

A Dial for the Modern Age

One of the most notable changes is the rearrangement of the subdials to create a more harmonious and balanced layout. The European-style date display positions the day at 9 o’clock, the date at 12 o’clock, and the month at 3 o’clock, with the week numbers printed on the inner bezel, as seen in previous perpetual calendar models.

A new progressive date wheel, developed by the AP team, enhances the readability of the date at 12 o’clock. The date wheel is equipped with 31 custom-made teeth, varying in size to better fit the width of the digits, ensuring that each day is clearly legible. The design team also aligned the start of the week—Monday—at 12 o’clock, further enhancing the dial’s symmetry and aesthetic appeal. Additionally, a “no-correction zone” marked in red warns users when they cannot adjust the watch without risk of damaging the movement, providing further ease of use.

As with previous models, the moon phase remains at 6 o’clock, displaying a realistic representation of the moon based on a NASA photograph. However, to complement the new dial layout, the full moon now sits centrally on the 12 o’clock axis, creating a visually pleasing and balanced composition.

Three Models, Three Distinct Aesthetics

The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet features an 18-carat white gold case, exuding a contemporary elegance with a multi-layered design that alternates between satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. The dial, in a deep smoked blue with concentric circles, features a pattern created in collaboration with Swiss guilloché artisan Yann Von Kaenel, adding texture and light play. The dial is complemented by 18-carat white gold luminescent hands and hour markers, along with a blue rubber-coated strap that matches the dial's hue.

The Royal Oak in Stainless Steel combines the classic stainless steel case and bracelet with a blue PVD Grande Tapisserie dial, offering a more traditional yet refined look. The dial and subdials match the steel case, and 18-carat white gold hands complete the sophisticated design, ensuring legibility while maintaining a timeless aesthetic.

For those seeking something unique, the Royal Oak in 18-carat Sand Gold offers a striking monochrome look. The case and bracelet are made from Audemars Piguet’s proprietary sand gold—a blend of gold, copper, and palladium—resulting in a subtle interplay of light and shadow. The dial, inner bezel, and subdials are treated with the same sand gold tone, creating a cohesive and contemporary feel, while black calendar indications provide a refined contrast.

Key Features of the New Calibre 7138 Perpetual Calendar

• Innovative “All-in-One” Crown: Allows easy corrections of all functions (date, month, leap year, day, time, and moon phases) with no tools required.
• Legible and Symmetrical Dial: Features a European date display, custom-made date wheel, and enhanced readability.
• Water Resistance: Increased to 50 meters for the Royal Oak models (previously 20 meters) and 30 meters for the Code 11.59.
• Three Stunning Models: Available in 18-carat white gold, stainless steel, and 18-carat sand gold.
• Sapphire Caseback: Reveals the intricate design of the Calibre 7138 movement, with an openworked oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold.
• Patented Technology: The new crown correction system is protected by two patents for enhanced user experience.