The End Of An Era : The Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”
4 min read
In a celebration of both history and innovation, Audemars Piguet unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” limited edition, a remarkable timepiece that encapsulates the essence of the brand’s rich heritage and forward-thinking spirit. As the final watch to house the iconic Calibre 5135, this piece closes a chapter on nearly a decade of technical mastery. With a striking blend of titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) on the case and bracelet, this watch presents a modern yet vintage aesthetic, drawing inspiration from a pocket watch in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. Limited to only 150 pieces, this anniversary edition reflects the Manufacture’s relentless dedication to both tradition and cutting-edge innovation.
The Final Chapter of Calibre 5135: A Legacy in Motion
For almost ten years, Calibre 5135 powered the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked models, representing the pinnacle of Audemars Piguet’s dedication to horological precision. As the last timepiece to feature this movement, the “150th Anniversary” edition pays tribute to a legacy that dates back to 1978, when the brand first revolutionized the perpetual calendar complication with the creation of Calibre 2120/2800. This movement became a breakthrough, setting new standards and ushering in an era of growth for Audemars Piguet.
In 2015, Calibre 5134 followed, evolving the design and accommodating a larger 41 mm case. Its introduction breathed new life into the perpetual calendar complication, which had seen a decline in popularity since 1989. Audemars Piguet’s daring innovations continued with the release of the Calibre 5135 in 2019, a movement that brought the openworking technique to new heights, revealing intricate decorations and solidifying the model’s place in horological history. Now, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” gracefully bids farewell to this iconic movement, marking the end of an era and the dawn of future possibilities.
Material Mastery: Titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG)
Audemars Piguet has long been at the forefront of material innovation, and the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” is no exception. The 41mm case is constructed from a sophisticated combination of titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). Titanium, known for its lightweight and shock-resistant properties, is paired with BMG, an advanced material that offers exceptional wear and corrosion resistance. The BMG used here is a palladium-based alloy developed by Audemars Piguet, lending the timepiece a lustrous, polished finish that glows with sophistication.
BMG is not only a marvel in material science but also a triumph in design. Discovered in the 1960s and used in a variety of high-tech applications, it is brought into the realm of watchmaking with the specific goal of enhancing the durability and aesthetics of the Royal Oak collection. The BMG is polished to a mirror-like sheen for the bezel, caseback frame, and bracelet studs, perfectly complementing the satin-brushed titanium case and bracelet links. This marriage of materials ensures that the watch is not only visually captivating but also engineered for unparalleled durability and performance.
An Anniversary Edition for the Ages
This limited edition timepiece is distinguished by several design cues created to honor Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary. On the dial, a moon-phase complication at 6 o’clock integrates an "Audemars Piguet" signature inspired by historical documents, adding a touch of vintage charm to the modern timepiece. The caseback frame is engraved with two special touches: the “150” logo, representing the anniversary, and the mention “1 of 150 pieces,” underscoring the exclusivity of this model.
The vintage aesthetic is further amplified by the dial’s design, which draws inspiration from a pocket watch displayed in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet (reference 25729). This nod to the past serves as a reminder of the brand's dedication to maintaining its horological roots while constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation.
Key Highlights of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "150th Anniversary"
- Limited Edition: Only 150 pieces available, celebrating Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary.
- Calibre 5135: The final model to feature this movement, marking the end of an era for the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked series.
- Material Innovation: A sophisticated blend of lightweight titanium and corrosion-resistant Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG), combining strength and elegance.
- Dial Design: Vintage-inspired aesthetic, drawing influence from a pocket watch displayed at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet.
- Special Engravings: “150” logo and “1 of 150 pieces” on the caseback frame, marking the exclusivity of the edition.
- Moon-phase Complication: The integration of a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, harmonizing with the watch’s historical signature.
- A Symbol of Craftsmanship: A perfect balance of tradition and cutting-edge technology, encapsulating Audemars Piguet’s ongoing dedication to horological excellence.
