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Breitling Acquires Universal Genève, Will Recreate its Glory Days

THM DESK
12 Dec 2023 |
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In a major development for Switzerland's luxury watch industry, Breitling has announced the acquisition of the legendary but dormant watchmaker Universal Genève. With this strategic purchase, Breitling seeks to revive one of the most revered names in high-end Swiss timepieces and plans to rebuild the heritage brand over time.

Breitling Acquires Universal Genève, Will Recreate its Glory Days
SAS pilots receiving their Universal Geneve Polerouter in the 1950s ©scandinaviantraveler

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève earned renown as the "couturier of watchmaking" for its artisanal creations, in-house movements, and technical breakthroughs across the early-to-mid 20th century. However, the 1970s quartz crisis brought significant challenges, and Universal Genève changed ownership multiple times before going inactive in recent decades under Hong Kong's Stelux Group.

Breitling Acquires Universal Genève, Will Recreate its Glory Days
Article about the Universal Geneve Polerouter published in Europa Star in 1965

According to Breitling CEO Georges Kern, restoring Universal Genève is a "labor of love" that will unfold methodically in the years ahead. A dedicated team will focus on preserving Universal Genève’s identity as a separate Maison. But Breitling’s resources will allow for investments into Universal Genève’s revival across manufacturing, technology, and marketing.

Breitling Acquires Universal Genève, Will Recreate its Glory Days
Universal Geneve watchmakers working in the factory, ca. 1960s

Universal Genève has an illustrious history of innovations across eras - including 1920s reversible jewelry watches; robust 1940s chronographs like the legendary Tri-Compax; designs from legendary Gerald Genta like the 1950s Polerouter; and 1960s icons such as the "Nina Rindt" chronograph.

Breitling Acquires Universal Genève, Will Recreate its Glory Days
Vintage ad for the Universal Geneve Tri-Compax published in Europa Star in 1952

Breitling points to the shared past between the brands as Swiss chronograph specialists. The acquisition reunites the formerly rival watchmakers, keeping Universal Genève’s individual spirit alive while re-establishing the brand within the top echelon of Swiss watchmaking where it once belonged.