"It’s Not About Breaking Records” Says MD, Bvlgari Watches. Marking The Hours With Jonathan Brinbaum
6 min read
At Watches And Wonders 2025, amid the flurry of novelties and media buzz, Bvlgari presented a lineup that was less about chasing trends and more about reinforcing its foundations. With both the Serpenti and Octo lines evolving in confident new directions, Managing Director Jonathan Brinbaum offered insights that traced the maison's mindset: a careful balancing act between timeless design, boundary-pushing innovation, and an inclusive vision of luxury.
A New Chapter in Wearable Art
"The Aeterna is not just a reinterpretation, it's a recalibration," Jonathan begins, referring to the two new editions of the Serpenti Aeterna introduced this year. One is fully pavéd, and the other, a more accessible semi-pavé version, opens up the line to broader audiences. These are not coiled serpents of the past, but thoughtfully designed pieces that address wearability without sacrificing impact. "This is a Serpenti you can wear on either wrist comfortably," he adds, a small but significant nod to how consumers need shape design.
The Maison’s Roman influence is evident in each of its creations. “The Octo, as you know, was the symbol that you can find at the helm of the Panthéon. It is an opening, but also inside the structure of the dome, the opening lights up the full structure. It's an architectural twist that the Roman engineers found to create domes that would be solid enough. The Octo has been a story of movements which was conceived in 2010 but came to fruition in 2014,” says Jonathan.
If Serpenti is where design meets heritage, Octo Finissimo is where architecture meets technical audacity. "Octo was never meant to be a quiet piece. It was always meant to be different. The Octo doesn’t compete with Serpenti. They complete each other," Jonathan says. The Finissimo collection, now ten years old, has secured eight world records and, more importantly, a cult following among collectors who appreciate its bold proportions and horological genius. The watch's unique Roman influence and in-house movement strategy continue to set it apart in an industry often defined by conservatism.
The engineering feats behind Finissimo have done more than break records, they've laid the groundwork for other revolutions, notably the Piccolissimo movement. "The miniaturisation lessons from Finissimo made Piccolissimo possible," Jonathan shares. This tiny movement powers the maison's high-jewellery women's watches, many of which debut in the Diva's Dream and Serpenti collections. The thread of innovation runs consistently through Bulgari, but it's often subtle a whisper rather than a shout.
Among the jewels and style statements, Bulgari also displayed a Grande Sonnerie this year. Not with fanfare, but as a quiet assertion of competence. "We didn’t make a lot of noise about it, but it’s important to show that we can do it," says Jonathan. For a brand that is often pigeonholed as a jeweller first and watchmaker second, such pieces shift perception, slowly but definitively.
Collaborations That Matter
Another way Bulgari keeps its edge is through collaborations, like last year's eye-catching project with MB&F. "Max (Büsser) and Fabrizio (Buonamassa) clicked because they both love risk. There’s authenticity in these collaborations. There has to be a genuine desire to push boundaries and create something that satisfies both parties," Jonathan says with a smile. More collaborations are in the works, and while details are under wraps, the intent is clear: shared vision and dedication to the craft.
On the topic of 2024’s market softness, Jonathan is pragmatic. "The year may be slower, but the fundamentals haven’t changed. Icons still sell. Innovation still matters." He points to a long-term view: when you build around strong design codes and credible watchmaking, you’re not dependent on hype cycles. It's a subtle reminder that Bvlgari plays a different game, one where cultural relevance and mechanical integrity go hand in hand.
When asked about Bvlgari's growing appeal to women collectors, Jonathan is clear: "We don’t make shrunken men’s watches. We make women’s watches." It sounds simple, but in an industry still grappling with gender norms, it's revolutionary. The maison sees increasing interest in mechanical pieces from female clients, especially in Asia, where Bvlgari’s high-jewellery craftsmanship is already well known.
Design Codes that Invite Play
Versatility is a word that comes up often in Jonathan 's vocabulary. Serpenti's new designs are meant to be worn solo or stacked. Octo's clean lines lend themselves to future iterations, even limited editions with edgy materials. "We want pieces that can evolve, not just in style but in how people wear them."
What are Jonathan's views on the uncertainties of 2025? “If you look at the long history of Swiss watchmaking, forgetting a bit the last year or so, it has been a success story. And it's true that we are very, very strong post-COVID. 2022 and 2023 were somehow very positive years for a lot of the watchmakers in the market. 2024 has been slightly more complicated.For me, a readjustment also of the market. If you ask me about the long-term future, I'm still very optimistic. I mean, 200 years of history are not going to be wiped out this way. The quartz crisis of the 80s will not happen again. This way, I can be pretty confident about it. However, this comes back to the responsibility we have as watchmakers to, first of all, be true to our roots, meaning developing and looking into what really we stand for. Because in uncertain times, clients are looking for safety. And safety comes by icons. A client will buy less if they are not reassured by the icon that is behind, or the story that is behind the maison. Some watchmakers forget their roots. Second, there’s a core belief in watchmaking, innovation. We cannot stop innovating. How many brands in the market launched 13 movements over the last decade like we did in Bvlgari? Maybe some people will say we're doing too much. That's another debate, but we are so passionate that we love to come with all that innovation.”
The conversation ends with a look to the future and to Gen Z. "You can’t lecture Gen Z about luxury. They want to feel it, live it, remix it. We want our future clients to start their journey with us and grow with us," Jonathan says. Bvlgari is exploring ways to make entry-level pricing more inclusive without diluting the brand. It’s a work in progress, but one grounded in authenticity.
In the world of watchmaking, relevance is often mistaken for reinvention. Bvlgari, as Jonathan makes clear, takes a different approach: refine what works, take risks when they matter, and never lose sight of the client. Whether it’s a coiled serpent on the wrist or the world’s thinnest tourbillon, the goal remains the same: make time feel personal, powerful, and unmistakably Roman.
