Dubai Watch Week 2025: De Bethune Showcases Two Faces Of Innovation With A Reversible GMT And Perpetual Calendar

Dubai Watch Week brings a wave of creative energy every year, and this edition places De Bethune at the centre of attention with two standout debuts that show the full spectrum of the brand’s mechanical imagination. On one side is the dramatic DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, a watch built around dual identities and reversible architecture. Alongside it stands a refined new 40 mm version of the DB25 Perpetual Calendar, crafted for collectors who prefer a more compact case without sacrificing any of the Maison’s signature craftsmanship. Together they illustrate how De Bethune continues to bridge heritage and innovation with effortless fluidity.

The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT draws on a history that dates back over two centuries, when double sided timepieces emerged during the Age of Enlightenment. From Renaissance tower clocks to pocket watches and creations like the Leroy 01 of 1900, the ability to display more functions on multiple faces became a hallmark of mechanical ingenuity. De Bethune revives that legacy with a two faced watch that displays two time zones, driven by a single movement and a gear system ensuring the hands always move clockwise on either dial. The watch can be worn on either side depending on the mood or the time zone needed, which feels perfectly in tune with the dynamic pace of Dubai Watch Week.

"Designing a watch that tells two stories across two dials with one seamless motion was a challenge that defined the creative direction of the Kind of Two Jumping GMT," says Denis Flageollet. This spirit is reflected on the contemporary side, where the balance wheel sits at 6 o clock and the minutes are read around the outer track. Layered finishes including polished and domed surfaces and microlight and shotpeened textures create depth without crowding the space. Gold wheels highlight the GMT and jumping seconds mechanisms while a multi level deltoid shaped titanium bridge anchors the composition. Blued steel hands with satin brushed inlays add clarity and a hint of colour.

The polished Grade 5 titanium case measures 43 mm and features the floating lug system made specifically for the Kind of Two. These lugs ensure a natural fit on the wrist and allow the case to rotate smoothly from one dial to the other. Forty two components make up the rotation system crafted from materials chosen for their durability against moisture temperature variations and day to day wear. The classic side reveals a calmer aesthetic with a domed anthracite dial and a guilloche centre. Curved gold hands and gilded markers bring a quiet elegance while a polished titanium element marks the jumping seconds.

Ease of use remains a priority. Home time is set on the contemporary side by pulling the crown to the first position while the second time zone is set from the classic side with the crown in its next position. The watch combines mechanical sophistication with intuitive operation which makes its dual personality even more compelling.

Alongside this dramatic technical showcase De Bethune brings a different expression of its identity with the new 40 mm DB25 Perpetual Calendar. The smaller size required a complete internal redesign to maintain clarity comfort and full perpetual calendar functionality. The iconic DB25 case remains recognisable with its slim silhouette and hollowed lugs shaped from Grade 5 titanium. The reduced diameter enhances comfort with an exceptionally light feel.

The perpetual calendar unfolds on a dial inspired by a starry night sky and the Milky Way. A multi level construction using ring shaped appliques and a silver toned minutes track surrounds the subdials. The date sits at 6 o clock while the day and month are positioned at 9 o clock and 3 o clock. Manually finished curved yellow gold hands polished to a mirror shine bring warmth to the display. At 12 o clock a palladium and blued steel sphere shows the moon phases with astronomical accuracy supported by a gold disc that marks the leap year cycle.

The starry sky has become a hallmark of De Bethune and the dial is created through a sequence of finely controlled processes. The blued titanium surface is achieved using a thermal oxidation technique unique to the Manufacture. White gold pins are set by hand into micro perforations of varying sizes to recreate a stellar composition. After laser micro milling the Milky Way appears through the delicate application of 24 carat gold leaf bringing a poetic shimmer to the dial.

Inside the case is the hand wound DB2005V3 calibre developed entirely at L Auberson. The movement incorporates a perpetual calendar a spherical moon accurate to one day in 122 years a self regulating double barrel a titanium and white gold balance wheel a De Bethune balance spring with flat terminal curve a silicon escape wheel and the triple pare chute shock protection system. A sapphire caseback reveals the clean architecture and refined finishing. More than 330 components are crafted and decorated by hand then assembled by a Grand Complication watchmaker.

"Created crafted and tested for reliability within our Manufacture our perpetual calendar stems from artisanal work performed by a few expert hands and many hours at the workbench. It is this high standard that makes each watch an exceptional timepiece," says Denis Flageollet. Because of the complexity involved the DB25 Perpetual Calendar is produced in a limited annual series. The watch is completed with a supple alligator strap and titanium buckle to ensure the same comfort and refinement that run through every detail.

Together the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT and the DB25 Perpetual Calendar capture the breadth of De Bethune’s creativity. One embraces duality and transformation while the other distills tradition into a more compact form. Both reflect the spirit that makes Dubai Watch Week 2025 a showcase for the most expressive forms of modern horology.