Don't Sit On The Fence: A Radical Manifesto For Watch Enthusiasts By Mark Cho
4 min read
Remember 2022, when Mark Cho, co-founder of the renowned menswear destination The Armoury in Hong Kong and New York, made headlines by parting with a significant portion of his extensive watch collection at a Phillips online auction? Cho, a passionate watch collector for nearly two decades, decided to sell the lion's share of his carefully curated pieces, marking a notable moment in the world of luxury timepieces.
But this wasn’t just a sale—it was a statement. Cho’s decision to auction off a collection built over years wasn’t driven by financial need, but by a deeper philosophy that resonates with many collectors: the cycle of curation. Selling watches to make room for new ones is not just about clearing space—it’s about embracing evolution in both taste and collection. In watch collecting, this shift in focus can be seen as a sigma, the underlying logic or pattern that drives the collector’s journey. For Cho, it was a desire to evolve, to refine, and to continuously challenge his personal aesthetic and horological knowledge. Each watch that left his collection represented more than just a sale—it was an opportunity to reassess and find pieces that better aligned with his current vision.
The act of selling isn’t always about the financial return; often, it’s about curatorial growth—the space to make room for fresh acquisitions, discover new brands, or revisit the classics. For Cho, this was a deliberate step in evolving from a collection of nostalgia to one of relevance. Selling to evolve is as much a part of the collector's journey as acquiring, a process that shapes the very essence of a collector’s taste over time.
Mark Cho spent the last 16 years amassing a spectacular watch collection. Cho, the co-owner of Drake's and co-founder of the highbrow suiting shop The Armoury, is more invested in fashion than your average collector. And so he delights in what others may have overlooked: he loves quartz watches because they're thin, he's tickled by a Frankensteined Nautilus, and he conducted a whole study on the ideal watch size for the wrist. In a candid interview, Cho shared insights into his watch-collecting journey, revealing a passion that has evolved significantly over nearly two decades.
The Early Days of Collecting
Cho's watch collecting began 18 years ago, driven by an unexpected factor: affordability. "Watches 18 years ago were very cheap," he recalls. His first vintage watch, an Omega Chronostop, cost just 350 pounds—a stark contrast to the typical Omega Seamaster, which was around 800 pounds at the time.
Evolution of a Collector
Initially, Cho's approach was pragmatic. "As a young man growing up, I was looking for pieces that made me feel like I was establishing myself, establishing my career," he explains. These were milestone watches that represented personal achievements. His collecting strategy then shifted to acquiring what he considered future iconic pieces. He purchased watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus when they were relatively affordable—around 10,000 US dollars—a price that seems remarkable in today's market.
Collecting Philosophy
Cho's collecting philosophy is refreshingly personal. "These days I just collect what I like," he says. For him, watches are more than mechanical instruments; they're expressions of personality. "Watches are not just very interesting and beautiful pieces of artisanship, craftsmanship, engineering, but they say a lot about the wearer," he explains. One of Cho's distinctive perspectives is his emphasis on watch size. While many collectors gravitate towards larger timepieces, he prefers smaller options. "I tend to be buying things that are like 37 millimeters down to 31 millimeters," he notes, challenging the industry's trend of oversized watches.
The Auction and Trading Approach
In a bold move, Cho auctioned off 66 watches to fund a new retail concept. "I needed money to create a space for my clients, my staff, my friends to come and hang out," he says. This decision reflects his philosophy of not hoarding but actively curating his collection. He even developed "12 commandments of collecting," with one key principle being the importance of learning to trade watches. "When you let go of something, you have to answer seller's questions," he explains. "You learn even more in the selling process than in the buying process."
Advice for New Collectors
For budding watch enthusiasts, Cho's advice is straightforward: "Don't sit on the fence. Just buy something, you know, because you have to take the first step on the journey." He also encourages new collectors not to fear selling. Drawing from a Chinese phrase, he likens potential losses to "school fees"—a learning investment in one's collecting journey.
The Impact of Social Media
Reflecting on industry changes, Cho highlights social media's disruptive influence. "The old way of selling watches was through a retail store," he explains. Now, social media creates closer connections between brands, retailers, and collectors, forming dynamic communities.
Mark Cho's watch collecting journey is a testament to personal taste, continuous learning, and the joy of curating a collection that truly reflects one's aesthetic and personality. His approach challenges traditional collecting norms and encourages a more intuitive, personal relationship with timepieces.
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