Inside The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Ocean Grey Chronograph: 35 Lacquer Layers And Calibre 761 Excellence

Seven years ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre made a bold statement with the revival of their Polaris collection—a modern interpretation of the Maison's legendary 1960s diving watches that had captured the hearts of underwater explorers and style mavens alike. Today, in 2025, the Swiss Manufacture continues this aquatic journey with the introduction of the Polaris Chronograph Ocean Grey, a timepiece that doesn't just tell time but narrates the story of craftsmanship meeting adventure.

The Polaris Legacy: From Diving Pioneer to Modern Icon
The original Polaris watches of the 1960s weren't just timepieces; they were tools of exploration. During an era when Jacques Cousteau was revealing the ocean's mysteries and diving was transitioning from military necessity to recreational pursuit, Jaeger-LeCoultre's diving watches became the companions of choice for serious underwater adventurers. These vintage pieces possessed an unmistakable character—robust yet refined, functional yet beautiful.

When the collection was reborn in 2018, it carried forward this dual DNA of sporting capability and Swiss elegance. The modern Polaris line has successfully bridged the gap between weekend adventures and boardroom meetings, offering what few watches can claim: true versatility without compromise.

Ocean Grey: The Color of Depth and Sophistication
The new Ocean Grey variant represents more than just another colorway—it's a technical marvel disguised as aesthetic beauty. The dial's creation is nothing short of extraordinary, requiring 35 individual layers of lacquer applied through a painstaking manual process that would make even the most patient artisan question their dedication.

This isn't the rushed work of mass production. Each dial begins its journey with a clear varnish foundation, followed by four precise layers of color. Then comes the crucial black application that creates the signature gradient effect—a technique that demands absolute precision to ensure the central disc and hours ring achieve perfect color harmony. The process culminates with 30 coats of translucent lacquer, each one adding depth and richness that can only be achieved through time and patience. The result? A dial that shifts and changes as light dances across its surface, revealing different depths and tones like sunlight filtering through ocean water. It's this interplay of light and lacquer that transforms the Ocean Grey from a simple color into a living, breathing surface that captures the essence of its aquatic inspiration.

Architecture of Adventure: Design Excellence in Steel
The 42mm steel case continues the Polaris design language established in 2018, but familiarity doesn't breed contempt here—it breeds confidence. The taut lines and sharply curving lugs create a contemporary silhouette that sits comfortably on wrists ranging from 6.5 to 8 inches. The thin bezel maximizes dial real estate while the glass-box crystal—a nod to vintage diving watch aesthetics—provides unobstructed views of the intricate lacquer work beneath.

Perhaps most importantly, the large crown and robust pushers aren't just design elements; they're functional necessities. Drawing inspiration from the 1960s original, these components are sized for operation while wearing gloves—a practical consideration that speaks to the watch's sporting heritage.

The interplay of brushed and polished surfaces across the case creates visual interest without overwhelming the eye. This thoughtful finishing work is what separates haute horlogerie from mere luxury, demonstrating why Jaeger-LeCoultre has earned the moniker "Watchmaker of Watchmakers."

The Calibre 761: Integrated Chronograph Excellence
Beneath the sapphire exhibition caseback lies the heart of this timepiece—the automatic Calibre 761. This isn't a modified time-only movement with a chronograph module bolted on top; it's a fully integrated chronograph calibre designed from the ground up to handle timing functions with mechanical elegance.

The column-wheel chronograph mechanism with vertical clutch represents the pinnacle of chronograph architecture. Unlike cam-actuated systems, the column wheel provides smoother operation and greater longevity, while the vertical clutch ensures seamless engagement without the hand-jumping common in lateral clutch systems.

Twin barrels provide 65 hours of power reserve—enough for a long weekend away from the winding routine. The movement's finishing includes blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration, while the skeletonized rotor bearing the 'JL' motif adds a touch of visual drama to the technical symphony beneath.

Dial Dynamics: Reading Time with Sporting Precision
The Ocean Grey dial's layout prioritizes legibility while maintaining visual appeal. The central chronograph seconds hand enables precise timing readings, while the 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock and running seconds at 9 o'clock create perfect balance. The circular graining on these sub-dials adds textural contrast to the glossy central surface.

Orange accents aren't just decorative choices—they're functional elements that guide the eye to critical information. These bright touches pay homage to the sporting tool watch tradition while adding contemporary energy to the overall composition.
The skeletonized hands, another Polaris signature, allow maximum visibility of dial elements while maintaining legibility. Luminescent coating on indexes, numerals, and hand tips ensures readability in all conditions—a necessity for any serious adventure watch.

Strap Versatility: From Canvas to Rubber
The Ocean Grey comes equipped with two interchangeable straps that transform its personality instantly. The blue-grey canvas option evokes sailing adventures and weekend getaways, while the textured black rubber strap is purpose-built for water sports and active pursuits.

This dual-strap approach recognizes how modern watch enthusiasts live—transitioning seamlessly between different activities and environments throughout their day. The quick-change system means going from yacht club to dive boat requires only moments. The introduction of the Ocean Grey variant demonstrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's commitment to evolution within tradition. Rather than constantly reinventing the wheel, the Maison focuses on perfecting existing designs through material innovation and manufacturing excellence.

The Polaris Chronograph Ocean Grey succeeds because it doesn't try to be everything to everyone. Instead, it perfects the art of being a versatile sports chronograph that happens to possess the refinement expected from one of Switzerland's most respected manufactures.

The 35-layer lacquer dial process alone justifies serious consideration from collectors who appreciate manufacturing excellence. When combined with the robust Calibre 761 movement and thoughtful design details, the result is a watch that stands confidently among the finest sport chronographs available today. For those seeking a timepiece that can transition seamlessly from Saturday morning sailing to Sunday evening dinner, while offering the mechanical sophistication that makes Jaeger-LeCoultre legendary, the Ocean Grey represents a compelling proposition. 

Technical Specifications:
Case: 42mm stainless steel, 13.39mm thick
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 761, automatic with integrated chronograph
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with 30-minute counter, tachymeter
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Water Resistance: 100 meters (10 bar)
Dial: Ocean Grey lacquer with 35-layer construction
Straps: Black rubber and blue-grey canvas, both interchangeable
Reference: Q9028651
Priced at EUR 13400 or INR 1309381, approximately.