Jaeger-LeCoultre Takes The Secret Route With The Reverso Secret Necklace

THM Desk
27 Mar 2023 |
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Originally conceived for the gentleman polo player, Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled a new secret in a more elegant aesthetic - The Reverso Secret Necklace.

Blending the arts of horology and jewellery, the Maison has continued to marry technical sophistication, creative design and aesthetic beauty in a process of constant evolution, one of them being the expertise of revealing time only when you wish to know it - Secret watches. Secret watches are no secret for this Manufacture. Let's look at a few noteworthy launches…

The Duoplan Secret

A beautiful integrated solid gold bracelet with a five-link structure, perfectly embracing the wrist that came from a partnership of Jaeger and LeCoultre and Duoplan. Equipped with the manual-winding Duoplan Calibre 403, this secret watch was also a revolution for LeCoultre & Cie, the catalyst in the Manufactures's transition from a movement and component producer to a full-fledged watch manufacturer.

The Duoplan Secret
The Duoplan Secret

101 Feuille Watch

Inspired by an iconic model back which was first created in 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the 101 Feuille jewellery-watch that conceals the renowned Calibre 101 under a veil of diamonds. Closely reproducing the curved and sensual lines of a leaf, the headdress of this secret watch can be raised or lowered with one simple movement. Whenever its owner desires, the 101 Feuille watch in white gold unveils its silvered opaline dial with absolute discretion.

101 Feuille Watch
101 Feuille Watch

2023 - The Reverso Secret Necklace

Underlining this commitment to feminine expressions of fine watchmaking, this year the Maison launched a a new interpretation of the Reverso in the form of a magnificent piece of High Jewellery – the Reverso Secret Necklace. Reverso has become regarded as an icon of 20th-century design and this year the Manufacturer has transformed it into a graceful and exquisitely feminine sautoir, or long necklace.

Jaeger LeCoultre - Secret Reverso Necklace 2

The original black textile bracelet, seen on Reverso models of the 1930s has been reimagined as a supple chain of intricate diamond-set links and polished onyx beads, from which the richly gem-set Reverso is suspended. Two pendants of polished onyx charms add a refined flourish to this elegant new way of wearing the time.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Takes The Secret Route With The Reverso Secret Necklace

But here’s the secret. The Reverso Secret Necklace has a gem-set cover hiding the dial until you wish to read the time. The swivelling case of the Reverso is a twist on this idea, concealing the time when turned over.

Reverse it and the Reverso Secret Necklace is a beautiful Art Decoinspired jewel that conceals its secret power of time-telling until you choose to reveal it. Although the dial may appear to be upside-down, it is set that way so that you can read the time naturally as you lift the watch to read it .

The Aesthetics

The reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern of geometric repeats, contrasting with the warm tone of the metal. Vertical rows of grain-set diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. Contrasting with the richness of black onyx and pink gold, the centre of the dial is set with white diamonds, as are the signature brackets that define each corner of the dial. Each of the hundreds of tiny links that form the supple chain has been set with diamonds – a particularly demanding process as it requires great skill and dexterity to manipulate such tiny elements. The clasp of the necklace is formed of polished onyx, pink gold and diamonds and the triangular sections that attach the cordonnet to the top and bottom of the case are also decorated with diamonds set in pink gold on a background of black onyx. With over 3,000 diamonds, – representing ~20 carats – the gem-setting on the Reverso Secret Necklace requires over 300 hours of meticulous work.

The Movement

Developed and produced entirely in house, the manually-wound Calibre 846 concealed within the case was created specifically for the Reverso shaped specifically to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

And voila, a timeless design reimagined as a jewel.

Case: Pink gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Watch dimensions: 36.78 x 18 mm x 9.51 mm thick
Necklace length: 80cm circle of onyx beads and diamond-set links; 55cm length from clasp to tips of
Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846
Functions: Hours and minutes
Power reserve: 38 hours
Dial: Black onyx and diamonds
Caseback: Black onyx and diamonds
Diamonds: Over 3’000 diamonds ~20 carats
Reference: Q3272301 – Limited production