Kurono Tokyo's Vermilion 'SHU' Chronograph: A Celebration Of Time, Tradition, And Emotion

Imagine walking into a Tokyo salon filled with sunlight, and on the table in front of you lies a dial so vibrant, so alive, that it glows—so vibrant a color as Kyoto's torii gates or the lacquer armor of the samurai. That vivid color is "SHU:朱", the vermilion red chosen for the newest chronograph from Kurono Tokyo. Like the color, the watch's history is one of tradition, of toughness, and of daring.

A Watchmaker's Dream, Made Accessible

Kurono Tokyo is not your typical luxury watch brand. Founded by Japan's top independent watchmaker, Hajime Asaoka, with a simple frustration in mind: quality watches reasonably well made at a reasonable price no longer existed. Asaoka often recalls that a quality Japanese watch for around ¥200,000 was within reach 25 years ago. Now, that combination of quality at a reasonable price is hard to find. Kurono was his answer. His method is sincere: slash wasteful expenditures, eliminate middlemen, and invest money in design and quality, not in ads. That's why Kurono has always been different. It's luxury without arrogance. It provides elegance and mechanical purity without excessive elitism.

The Vermilion Statement: "SHU:朱"

The Kurono Chronograph Vermilion 'SHU' is the very embodiment of that philosophy. The focus, of course, is the dial. That gorgeous orange-red vermilion is not just a color; it's a symbol in Japan, a symbol of life, purification, and protection. It's the color you see on shrine gates, on lacquerware, and even on the accoutrements of traditional drama. Asaoka and his team spent years experimenting with pigments to guarantee the color won't fade. Taped half-way around prototypes were left in direct sunlight for weeks. The majority of the colors lost their luster; vermilion did not. What remains on your wrist is a dial that will remain as striking a decade from now as it is today.

Design That Bridges Old and New

Case: 38mm stainless steel, slim at 11.7mm (13.5mm including sapphire). Compact yet substantial.

Dial: Cylindrical, domed in the center—a vintage touch that harkens back to mid-century watches but is very difficult to produce these days.

Crystal: Box sapphire, combining age-old beauty with modern scratch-resistance.

Movement: Japan's NE86 automatic chronograph (34 jewels, 28,800 vph, 45-hour reserve), or a modern equivalent of Swiss ETA workhorses.

Water Resistance: 30m, adequate for normal exposure but not for diving.

Strap: Calf leather, understated to let the dial shine.

The end result is a chronograph that is both retro and modern. It is more something to be worn as a design.

Exclusivity through Experience

India's high-end watch market is buzzing. Recent statistics point to double-digit year-on-year Swiss watch imports growth. And outside the Rolex and Omega, there's increasing interest in independent watch brands. Brands with genuine narratives, small production numbers, and artisanal philosophies. 

Culturally, too, the vermilion dial rings a bell. Red is the color of auspicious new start, celebrations, and vitality from sindoor to bridal saris in India. It's not difficult to imagine this fiery chronograph making waves on the wrist of a Bollywood actress or fashionista. One could see Ranveer Singh sporting it with an edgy ensemble, or a figure like Ayushmann Khurrana taking it into the indie-fashion spotlight. In a world where brands manufacture scarcity online, Kurono Tokyo does the reverse: the SHU will only be available in store at Kurono Tokyo Salons in Tokyo Aoyama and Shanghai from 22 August 2025. No e-commerce, no robots, no online sprint to the internet. Only a boutique experience offline. Buyers must register for a Kurono Tokyo account, and one per individual. It's a luxury novelty in this day and age of digital-first luxury, but Asaoka believes in human-to-human communication; something that resonates with collectors who value authenticity over algorithms.

The Kurono Tokyo Chronograph Vermilion 'SHU' is not a matter of technical excellence, it's a matter of philosophy. It demonstrates that independent watchmaking does not have to be something to strive for. It's a philosophy of aesthetics: refined design, cultural richness, and refusing to ever compromise on quality. To Indian buyers, it provides something scarce: a path to the realm of haute horology at a price that remains aspirational but is not prohibitive. Even better, it is a reminder that the greatest luxury is not necessarily the most vocal; it is the one which burns slowly, like vermilion on the wrist.

Price: 

Tokyo price: ¥598,950 (with tax) / ¥544,500 (without tax for foreign passport holders)

Shanghai price: RMB 29,300 (including tax)

Indian Price: INR 3,53,507 (approx)