Traditional Enameling Technique Grand Feu Makes Its Debut On The Louis Erard Le Régulateur

A traditional grand feu enamel dial graced a Louis Erard timepiece for the first time embodying the perfect marriage of craftsmanship and fine contemporary watchmaking. Unveiling its emblematic Le Régulateur model, the polished stainless steel case, 39 mm in diameter, houses an ivory-coloured dial crafted in grand feu enamel using the traditional techniques of Donzé Cadrans S.A. 

Embarking on a remarkable journey, undertaking both technical and artistic challenges in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans, a pioneering force in this domain since 1972. The utilization of ivory enamel, with its precise formulations, reflects the brand's unwavering pursuit of perfection. Enamel is a material composed of several minerals. This mixture is then vitrified, i.e. transformed into glass by fusion, in a process that takes place in an oven heated to around 800°C, hence the name "grand feu". To obtain a smooth, uniform surface, several successive coats are applied and as many firing cycles. 

The material is capricious and sometimes unpredictable, which means that despite the expertise of the craftsmen, the result remains uncertain. Each firing can result in imperfections such as roughness, cracks, bubbles and unexpected colour changes. On average, 5-7 layers of enamel are needed to obtain the desired result. The inscriptions on the dial are also made from two-colour enamel, fused together by the final firing, which explains why this process has become so rare. Unlike traditional dials, which will fade over time, the colour of an enamel dial is unalterable.   

Grand feu enamel, naturally exclusive and limited, defies mass production. Each dial is meticulously crafted by hand, distancing itself from industrial norms. Consequently, every enamel dial is inherently unique, embodying an artisanal spirit. This approach symbolizes an artistic and romantic ideal within watchmaking, elevating timepieces with grand feu enamel dials to a revered status, often considered as elusive as they are exquisite.