Cutting Corners And Compromising ‘Luxury’ In Luxury Watchmaking

In Formula 1, even a slight deviation from the actual race path can subtract the crucial hundreds or thousands from a laptime. That’s why corner cutting can attract a time penalty or worse, call for an undesirable drive through the pit lane, while competition blitzes past on the main straight.

That’s the cost of cutting corners in Formula 1.

Okay, for the casual enthusiast, it’s difficult to understand the tactics or the true effort that goes into finding mere milliseconds on the track. So, corner cutting doesn’t feel criminal to all. Similarly, the subtle decay that’s getting common in some executions of watchmaking would be imperceptible to all but the purest of horological purists.

Cutting Corners In Horology

Very often in watchmaking, brands de-content their watches. They cut corners, trim costs, and compromise on the ‘luxuries’ making luxury watches. More than often, these acts aren’t immediately apparent.

It all started with the late 19th-century industrialization of Swiss watchmaking and later with the mid-80’s introduction of CAD/CAM. The latter established a degree of mass production which in every essence marked a departure from the tradition of classical watchmaking. A significant percentage of production and finishing, although implemented on a high level, is now mostly machine-executed.

While the major impetus to horological corner cutting lies with watchmakers fulfilling demand and actually sparing costs, some of it is a given of the ‘hype-chasing’ watch collector. When collectors fail to realize that true craftsmanship is uncompromising, the silent artisanal decay gains traction and becomes the new tradition.

Artisanal Exception As The USP

High horology brands operate on a traditional USP. Here, artisanship meets no compromise and obsession is paramount. In such realizations, it’s not easy to deduce mass-market viability, both in the quality of the product as well as in its pricing. But there are working asides to this obsession towards high horology. Rolex is the chief example here.

Rolex manufactures products attributed with very high levels of quality, reliability, and consistency. Their products are known for accuracy, longevity, and gradual improvements. The subject of de-contenting doesn’t apply to Rolex as they’ve mostly added features on the cases, movements and bracelets. There’s very little to state in regards to actual de-contenting.

Instruments Of Corner Cutting

In reality, the distinction between good finishing and very high finishing is actually very subtle and literally imperceptible for most. Also, high finishing doesn’t vastly achieve any technical novelty or performance gains. Its practice finds meaning in continuation of the tradition of rare haute horlogerie crafts. In regards to the subtle acts of corner cutting in watchmaking, most of the time, the quality detriment is imperceptible and there’s a need to observe really carefully to deduce it.

Consumers In The Unknown

When consumers are attracted to hype, true hand finishing, and high watchmaking slightly loses its worth. When hype is favored over craftsmanship, it becomes an epidemic in the industry.

And its outbreak is a cause of uneducated consumers.

When the so-called purists reward hype over actual craftsmanship, horological corner cutting gains legitimacy. Only careful observation can yield the desired level of high horology substance to actually create an informed judgement.

Cost Saving At Entry-Level

Watchmaking has levels. What’s entry-level comes with its own expectation standards and market volume. But, the demand and need for decent quality watchmaking must be consistent even in accessible price points.

Even at entry or mid-level, quality commitment must be uncompromised. With techniques like laser cut parts, machine finishing, stamped or CNC-made guilloché, consumers get a taste of high horology at lower price points. But again, these practices should be transparently marketed as such.

Enduring Quality In Watchmaking

The distinct and rare crafts of haute horlogerie must be preserved and rightfully propagated to enable sustenance of a traditional practice. When volume and efficiency become necessary, owing to a very high demand for a certain product, compromises on the slow and meticulous crafts come naturally. But it lies with the manufacturers to balance quantity and quality. There must exist instances and executions to perpetuate the rich heritage of high watchmaking to enable sustenance of this rare tradition.

Then only can the tradition survive and flourish.