Phillips Decade One (2015-2025) Auction: A Buying Guide For The Greatest Grails
9 min read
When Phillips opened its watch department under Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo a decade ago, few could have predicted the seismic shift it would ignite in the world of horological collecting. Fast forward ten years, and the upcoming “Decade One (2015-2025)” auction feels like less of an event and more of a cultural moment.
Scheduled for November 8 and 9 at the Hotel President in Geneva, this auction does more than showcase horological masterpieces - it reflects on a decade of vision, craftsmanship, and the evolution of the global watch market itself. It’s the kind of an event that crystallizes a generation’s passion for fine timepieces into one dazzling celebration.
An Overview Of The Auction
Curated under the celebrated guidance of Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, Decade One (2015-2025) promises to be both a tribute to the past and a glimpse into the next era of collecting. With 213 exceptional lots, the sale captures the story of a marketplace that has matured - more informed, more passionate, and more daring than ever before. Many pieces are not just remarkable examples of design and rarity, they symbolize the shifting tastes of a generation of collectors who now see watches as more than just valuable assets, but as cultural artifacts.
At the auction’s core lies the ambition to set yet another record - potentially the largest cumulative total in watch auction history. Among the many highlights, the inclusion of a steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 stands out as a nod to Phillips’ groundbreaking sale in 2016, where the same reference rewrote the history books. Its reappearance now feels both nostalgic and ambitious, embodying the spirit of a company that has continually pushed the industry’s limits.
Still, what makes Decade One (2015-2025) so compelling is its range. Here are our top ten lots from this extraordinary catalogue.
Patek Philippe Ref. 1518
Lot #23
Even in a pool of legitimate grails, any Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 (the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph in the world) would easily top the desirability scopes. But when it comes to a grail among grails, one of the four known examples in steel of the total estimated 281 pieces produced of Ref. 1518 is the absolute tangible realization of horological divinity.
In virtues of historical importance, rarity and attractiveness, the Patek Philippe reference 1518 in steel is the top echelon worthy of an auction estimate of $10 Million. The said example fetched, at a 2016 Phillips auction, in excess of $11 Million making it not only the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction, but the very first wristwatch to break the $10 million barrier.
In its current state of listing, the Ref. 1518 from 1943 appears in a remarkable condition and looks virtually unworn. The said example presents collectors a once-in-a-generation opportunity to acquire a true unicorn in horological history.
Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink”
Lot #144
Unsurprisingly, the second place in auction estimate regards is occupied, once again, by the Ref. 1518. Expected to fetch in the range of $1,510,000 - 3,010,000, the very rare Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink” is one of only 15 examples of the pink-on-pink configuration. In rarity regards, it is the closest sibling to the 1518 in steel.
With a production year of 1947, the 1518 “Pink on Pink” was manufactured in very small batches of at least 5 examples per batch. The said example combines a pink-gold case with a salmon toned dial and from the images posted on the auction website, exists in an absolutely unrestored condition.
The auction lists a total of three Ref. 1518s, with a yellow gold 1518 (Lot #40) completing the trio.
Patek Philippe Ref. 2438/1 “Luminous Dial”
Lot #80
The Ref. 2438/1, with a total production number ranging from 60-70 is Patek Philippe’s scarcest perpetual calendar wristwatch. It’s rarer than its more revered siblings, the Ref. 1518 and Ref. 2499, of which 281 and 349 total examples were produced respectively. The Ref. 2438/1 was the world’s first serially produced waterproof perpetual calendar wristwatch.
With an estimate of $377,000 - 754,000, the Patek Philippe Ref. 2438/1 “Luminous Dial,” from 1954, featured as the Lot #80 exists in a “possibly unique” configuration, courtesy of a luminous dial. This dial, which exists as a subject of rarity in the said example, exists with a superb champagne patina further adding to its character.
The watch’s caseback is engraved with the letters “Dean Witter,” the name of its original owner who founded the parent company of what’s today Morgan Stanley - one of the largest brokerage firms in the United States.
Rolex Ref. 18059 Day-Date “Rainbow Khanjar”
Lot #32
The Rolex listings amongst the lots are evidently and expectedly dominated by the Daytona in myriad configurations. Close to 20 examples exist in total and are listed at very high estimates. Yet the Rolex of exceptional rarity and with the highest estimate isn’t a Daytona. A possibly unique Rainbow Day-Date with a Khanjar caseback at $879,000 - 1,760,000 has one of the highest estimates in the auction.
This Rolex Ref. 18059 Day-Date “Rainbow Khanjar” (circa 1985) made for the Sultanate of Oman is in white gold with a rainbow bezel, an ornate pavé set dial and paired with a diamond-set Jubilee bracelet. The particular example is unique and exists as the only one of three known “Rainbow” Day-Dates with “Khanjar” caseback that comes on a diamond-set Jubilee bracelet and engraved with a red “Khanjar” logo.
Rolex Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “The Golden Pagoda”
Lot #34
If there’s an apex of vintage Rolex Daytona collecting, it has got to be “The Golden Pagoda.” This Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona (Circa 1967) is the best preserved 18k yellow gold Ref. 6239 fitted with a champagne “Paul Newman” dial. Of the estimated 14,000 Ref. 6239 Daytonas produced between 1963 and 1969, only about 300 were cased in yellow gold.
In its “champagne Paul Newman” dial configuration, the watch carries an estimate of $628,000 - 1,260,000. At a previous Phillips auction in 2018, the watch attracted a hammer price of approx. $1 Million.
To put this watch, which still has a factory sticker on its caseback, into simple words, there is no better-preserved champagne-dial Paul Newman Ref. 6239 in the world.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3 “Pièce Unique”
Lot #6
The Phillips Decade One (2015-2025) auction honors history more than hype. While the former lots discussed are easily attractive, owing to their exponential desirability and provenance, a Ferdinand Berthoud is a refreshing dose of anti-hype delight. And here we have no ordinary watch either.
Listed in the first 10 lots on the catalog, the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3 “Pièce Unique” is the third chapter of a very honest initiative and an objective to prove that in an industry now dominated by computer-aided design (CAD) and CNC machining, a watch could still be made entirely by hand, using traditional tools and techniques.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3 “Pièce Unique” (first announced in 2019) is the third creation to emanate from this project and owes its opus to the joint effort of teams at Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard.
This unique and handmade stainless-steel wristwatch features a constant force chain-fusée mechanism, bi-metallic Guillaume balance and is realized entirely via traditional mechanical tools and without CNC or digital intervention.
The watch is the result of 6 years of development and a feat realized by 11,000 hours of manual labor contributed by more than 75 individuals. A total of 10 pieces of the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 will be made in gold at a rate of two per year starting 2026. The listed watch (estimated to fetch $502,000 - 1,000,000) is the 11th example and the only one made in stainless steel.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription”
Lot #182
The Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription” listed in the auction is the number 2 of a 20 piece subscription series by independent watchmaker F.P. Journe. With Journe watches becoming frequent auction highlights, this particular example from the year 2000 isn’t only the second subscription Resonance to be made but is the second subscription ever to be available at an auction.
Of the total of 7 Journe timepieces listed in the Decade One (2015-2025) auction, including an uber rare Tourbillon Souverain “Régence Circulaire” and a Tourbillon Souverain “Ruthenium,” the Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription” is the one with the best provenance and historical significance.
J. Player & Sons “Hyper Complication”
Lot #39
In many ways, the best of horological history resides in its pocked watch creations. The said is evident in the Lot #39 which makes one of the most incredible listings of the auction - the J. Player & Sons “Hyper Complication” from 1907. This massive at 77mm horological artifact makes a strong impression and is a legitimate “hyper” complication and a living demonstration of the epoch of fine English watchmaking.
This spectacular timepiece by a Coventry, England-based firm J. Player & Son impresses with a rare amalgam of complications, of which there are no less than 10. As one of the world’s most complicated vintage pocket watches ever made, the J. Player & Sons “Hyper Complication” is a testament of the incredible technical mastery of English watchmaking at the time.
The watch is estimated to fetch in the range of $502,000 - 1,000,000.
Urban Jürgensen Minute Repeating, Perpetual Calendar, Tourbillon Unique Piece
Lot #59
A prototype timepiece made in 2004 and later upgraded with a perpetual calendar in 2013 makes one of the most impressive lots in the Phillips Decade One (2015-2025) auction. The Urban Jürgensen Minute Repeating, Perpetual Calendar, Tourbillon Unique Piece features the creative hand marks of different masters. The watch was birthed as a minute repeater with a tourbillon conceived under the guidance of Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt.
It was later acquired at an auction in 2013 and returned to the brand, for an upgrade on behest of its new owner, where watchmaker Bernhard Zwinz upgraded the watch with a perpetual calendar mechanism requiring case and dial modifications in the process.
The watch is listed with an estimated auction price of $151,000 - 301,000.
Christian Klings Tourbillon 7
Lot #94
A very rare, like pièce unique rare, and special watch rounds up our top ten watches among the 213 exceptional lots at the Phillips Decade One (2015-2025) auction. This creation by Christian Klings, a now-retired German watchmaker who made less than 35 watches over his 30-year career, is a unique piece realised via over 1500 hours of labor.
The Christian Klings Tourbillon 7 (estimated at $126,000 - 251,000) is an exceptionally well-decorated timepiece with a flying tourbillon regulator, moonphases, power reserve, and an engine-turned dial. This watch from 2006 accompanied by a handwritten souscription/purchase contract by C. Klings with a sketch of the watch is the example with the most romantic and artisanal appeal in the entire auction catalog.
A Spectrum Of Splendor
What truly defines Decade One (2015-2025) is its variety. Beyond the big-ticket icons exist avant-garde independents, modern complications, and designs that mirror the sophistication of today’s collectors. Each lot tells a story of revival, innovation, or rediscovery, and the auction is simultaneously retrospective and forward-looking.
A quick browse through the catalog reveals how thoughtfully it has been assembled. Many of the listed lots could inspire essays in themselves, each a glimpse into a different chapter of the inspiring tale of horology.
The Decade One (2015-2025) auction feels less like a sale and more like a milestone - a powerful reflection on how far the watch world has come, and how thrilling its future looks.
