The Remarkable Comeback Of Legendary Watch Brands In 2024

Four decades after the quartz crisis threatened to obliterate traditional timepiece manufacturing, the horological landscape of 2024 stands as a testament to resilience, innovation, and the unyielding spirit of mechanical watchmaking. This renaissance defies technological determinism and celebrates the profound artistry of timekeeping, revealing how mechanical watches have transformed from mere instruments to complex narrative objects that embody human creativity and technological sophistication.

Favre Leuba: A 287-Year Odyssey of Global Horological Excellence
Founded in 1737, Favre Leuba represents more than a watchmaking brand—it is a living chronicle of horological evolution. The company's distinction as the world's second-oldest active watch brand transcends statistical curiosity, presenting a profound statement about technological endurance and strategic reinvention.

The brand's international expansion began with a strategic move into British India in 1865, a period when most Swiss watchmakers remained confined to their Alpine workshops. Favre Leuba wasn't merely exporting timepieces but establishing a global narrative of Swiss precision. From the trading hubs of Bombay and Calcutta to the colonial outposts of Rangoon, these watches became symbols of technological sophistication and cultural exchange.

The current revival, orchestrated under Patrik Hoffmann's leadership and backed by KDDL's strategic acquisition, represents a calculated resurrection that balances historical reverence with contemporary design philosophy. The acquisition by KDDL through its Silvercity Brands subsidiary in Grenchen is more than a financial transaction—it's a carefully architected return to global prominence. Favre Leuba's 2024 launch introduces 22 references across three distinctive collections, each meticulously designed to appeal to both nostalgic collectors and modern watch enthusiasts.

Deep Blue Collection 

The Deep Blue line epitomizes the brand's nuanced revival approach. The Deep Blue Revival pays homage to the brand's 1960s skin divers, maintaining a faithful 39mm diameter while subtly upgrading vintage elements. The original acrylic crystal and bakelite bezel have been replaced with modern sapphire, preserving aesthetic integrity while enhancing durability.

The Deep Blue Renaissance represents a more audacious interpretation. With a 40mm case and a palette exploring marine blues, verdant greens, and smoky blacks, it demonstrates Favre Leuba's ability to speak multiple design languages simultaneously.

Chief Collection Inspired by a 1970s Valjoux-powered chronograph, the Chief range features softened square cases that have been meticulously refined. The calibre L113 powering the Chief Chronograph offers a level of mechanical sophistication that will captivate discerning collectors, featuring column-wheel actuation that represents the pinnacle of traditional watchmaking. The partnership with La Joux-Perret, a Swiss movement manufacturer owned by Citizen, ensures that each timepiece represents the intersection of historical craftsmanship and contemporary technological innovation. This collaboration allows Favre Leuba to leverage advanced production capabilities while maintaining its commitment to mechanical excellence.

Universal Genève: From Polar Expeditions to Horological Iconography

Founded in 1894 as Universal Watch in Le Locle, the brand established its definitive presence in Geneva by 1919, quickly becoming synonymous with innovative chronographs that would reshape the horological landscape.

The Pivotal Moment: The Polerouter and Transpolar Navigation
Universal Genève's most iconic moment arrived in 1954 with the Polerouter—a watch conceived for an extraordinary mission of technological and geographical conquest. On November 15, 1954, Scandinavian Airlines launched its first transpolar flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, a journey that would challenge existing navigational technologies and push the boundaries of human engineering.

The airline required a timepiece that could withstand extreme conditions: magnetic interference, temperature variations, and the harsh realities of polar navigation. The design was entrusted to a then-young Gérald Genta, just 23 years old, who created a watch that was both technically revolutionary and aesthetically sublime. The Polerouter's 35mm diameter represented a perfect fusion of elegance and technical innovation. Its distinctive design featured twisted lugs and a tuxedo-like dial surrounded by an engine-turned ring. The most groundbreaking aspect was its three-dimensional construction—a patented design featuring a tension ring with hour markers fixed to the glass and a curved dial to secure the movement. The watch's initial references were powered by the calibre 138SS, a bumper-style automatic movement. However, the mid-1950s saw the introduction of the truly revolutionary micro-rotor movement. Named Calibre 215, this innovative design positioned the rotor on the same level as the movement's bridges, creating an remarkably thin calibre of just 4.1mm in height.

Strategic Positioning in the Watchmaking Ecosystem

Universal Genève's importance in the horological world cannot be overstated. In 1935, the brand strategically moved its headquarters to Geneva's prestigious Rue du Rhône, positioning itself directly between horological giants Rolex and Patek Philippe. This location was symbolic of the brand's ambition and technical prowess. The brand's narrative took a dramatic turn in 1989 when it struggled to navigate the quartz crisis. Despite attempts by Stelux Holdings to revive the brand in 1994 and 2005, Universal Genève remained largely dormant for more than three decades. Its legacy, however, continued to intrigue collectors, particularly those drawn to its connection with legendary watchmakers like Patek Philippe. The brand's Tri-Compax model, for instance, bore such a close resemblance to Patek Philippe's reference 1518—a legendary and astronomically expensive perpetual calendar—that it became a point of fascination for serious collectors.

Daniel Roth: The Philosopher of Mechanical Complexity
Daniel Roth's narrative is intrinsically linked to the renaissance of independent watchmaking. His journey from Audemars Piguet to leading Breguet's revival, and ultimately founding his eponymous brand in 1988, represents a pivotal moment in modern horological craftsmanship.

An unwavering commitment to mechanical complexity and aesthetic innovation defined Roth's watchmaking philosophy. His debut collection of tourbillons wasn't merely a technical exercise but a philosophical statement about watchmaking's potential for artistic expression. The signature double elliptical case, initially shocking the market, would become a design language synonymous with his brand.

The order of 25 watches by Aspery of London transformed Roth from a boutique artisan to a recognized force in independent watchmaking. The Daniel Roth watch reference 2187/C187, featuring a 38mm yellow gold case housing a sophisticated tourbillon, became a benchmark of mechanical sophistication.

Experimental Collections and Technical Mastery
Roth's experimental approach was evident in his subsequent collections. The 1990 lineup included three distinct chronographs—a dual-pusher, a mono-pusher, and a split-seconds chronograph—alongside an ultra-thin automatic watch designed to slide seamlessly under a shirt cuff. Each model featured a display case back, inviting collectors to appreciate the mechanical ballet within.

The Future: A Provocative Perspective on Mechanical Watchmaking
These revivals transcend mere commercial strategies. They represent a profound reaffirmation that mechanical watches are living, evolving narratives of human ingenuity.

The brands resurrecting themselves understand a critical truth: in the age of smartwatches and digital timekeeping, mechanical watches are no longer just instruments but repositories of cultural memory, technological innovation, and artistic expression. My prediction is unequivocal: we are witnessing the beginning of a horological renaissance. The mechanical watch has transformed from a timekeeping device to a complex narrative object—a wearable manuscript that connects us to human creativity, precision, and the relentless pursuit of perfection.