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Watches And Wonders 2025: Rolex Debuts First-Ever Ceramic Dial On The GMT-Master II

Palak Jain
1 Apr 2025 |
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True innovation is increasingly difficult to achieve. Yet at Watches and Wonders 2025, Rolex has once again demonstrated why it remains at the pinnacle of horological excellence with the introduction of its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the iconic Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II.

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A Material Evolution: The Cerachrom Revolution Continues
Rolex's relationship with ceramic materials, which the brand markets under its proprietary Cerachrom name, has been evolving for years. What began with bezel inserts has now culminated in perhaps the most significant material innovation for the brand in recent memory: a complete ceramic dial. This inaugural green Cerachrom dial makes its debut on a GMT-Master II configuration that already stands out from the collection—a left-handed model with the winding crown positioned on the left side of the case and the date aperture relocated to 9 o'clock. The decision to pair this unconventional layout with Rolex's first ceramic dial in an 18 ct white gold case represents a bold statement of technical prowess and design sophistication.

Technical Analysis: The Engineering Behind the Ceramic Dial
The development of a full ceramic dial presents numerous technical challenges that Rolex has evidently overcome. According to the brand, the Cerachrom dial is "created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate." This process requires exceptional precision to ensure structural integrity while maintaining the perfect surface finish that Rolex is known for. What's particularly noteworthy is the perfect color matching between the dial and the lower half of the two-color green and black Cerachrom bezel insert. Rolex emphasizes that this "perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements." This consistency speaks to the brand's absolute control over its manufacturing processes and materials science.

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The ceramic material offers several practical advantages beyond its striking appearance. It provides exceptional scratch resistance, color stability regardless of UV exposure, and complete imperviousness to corrosion—qualities that align perfectly with Rolex's ethos of creating timepieces built to last generations.

The Complete Package: Technical Specifications and Performance
This new GMT-Master II variant is powered by the calibre 3285, a movement introduced in 2018 that represents the pinnacle of Rolex's current GMT technology. The self-winding mechanical movement incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which delivers improved energy efficiency and magnetic resistance thanks to its nickel-phosphorous construction.

The movement is further enhanced by a blue Parachrom hairspring manufactured from a paramagnetic alloy, offering excellent stability across temperature variations and high shock resistance. These technical features combine to provide approximately 70 hours of power reserve—substantial for a watch with multiple complications.

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The robust 40mm Oyster case, crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold, maintains Rolex's legendary 100-meter water resistance. This is achieved through multiple waterproofness systems, including the Triplock winding crown with its triple sealing system and the hermetically screwed case back.

The timepiece comes fitted with Rolex's signature Oyster bracelet, complete with an Oysterlock folding safety clasp to prevent accidental opening and the Easylink comfort extension link allowing for approximately 5mm of adjustment. On this particular model, the bracelet includes patented ceramic inserts inside the links—another innovation aimed at enhancing flexibility and longevity.

Functional Versatility: The GMT Legacy Continues
Beyond its material innovations, this new GMT-Master II maintains the functional DNA that has made the model a favorite among travelers and professionals since its introduction. The ability to display two time zones simultaneously—either local time and a reference time, or local time and an alternative time zone—remains the watch's core function. The bidirectional rotatable bezel with its 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert serves as the key interface for this functionality. The insert's green section traditionally represents daytime hours, while the black portion indicates nighttime—a visual distinction that has become emblematic of the GMT-Master series.

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This release represents a significant step in Rolex's careful evolution of its professional watch lines. By introducing its first ceramic dial on a precious metal variant rather than a stainless steel model, Rolex follows its traditional approach of debuting innovations at the higher end of its price spectrum. The choice of green for this groundbreaking ceramic dial is noteworthy given the color's special significance to the Rolex brand. Often associated with the company's logo and packaging, green has become increasingly prominent in Rolex's design language over the past decade.

With the introduction of the GMT-Master II featuring the world's first Cerachrom dial at Watches and Wonders 2025, Rolex has once again demonstrated its unparalleled capability to advance the art of watchmaking through meaningful innovation. This isn't merely an aesthetic update but a technical achievement that extends the brand's mastery of ceramic technologies to new applications. 

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Like all Rolex watches, this new GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, ensuring a precision of −2/+2 seconds per day—significantly more stringent than COSC requirements. This certification, symbolized by the green seal that accompanies every Rolex, reinforces the brand's commitment to exceptional performance and reliability.