Rolex Discontinues Carl F. Bucherer Brand After 137 Years

In a significant move that has sent ripples through the luxury watch industry, Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour has made the decision to discontinue the storied Carl F. Bucherer (CFB) watch brand, bringing to an end a 136-year legacy in Swiss watchmaking. The announcement, made to employees this morning, marks the conclusion of a brand that, despite its prestigious heritage and technical prowess, struggled to achieve profitability throughout its operations.

Founded in 1888, Carl F. Bucherer stood as one of Switzerland's oldest luxury watchmakers, distinguished by its ability to create its own movements and its continuous family ownership until 2023. The brand remained under the stewardship of the Bucherer family for three generations until its acquisition by Rolex as part of the larger purchase of Bucherer AG from Jörg Bucherer last year. Despite its illustrious history and strong market presence, Carl F. Bucherer's financial performance tells a challenging story. According to information revealed by "BILANZ Watches," the brand never managed to turn a profit, even during its strongest years. While CFB achieved impressive annual sales figures between 80 and 100 million francs in its best periods—even ranking as the second-strongest brand within the Bucherer business after Rolex—the company consistently operated at a loss. The total financial impact has been substantial, with Bucherer reportedly losing approximately 250 million francs through its investment in CFB. This persistent unprofitability, despite significant investment and strong sales figures, ultimately contributed to Rolex's decision to discontinue the brand.

At its peak, Carl F. Bucherer maintained a significant global presence, with distribution through approximately 250 stores worldwide. This network included 50 locations operated by Bucherer or its US subsidiary Tourneau. These retail spaces will now undergo a transition period, with CFB products being gradually phased out and replaced with other luxury watch brands.

The closure process has begun with today's announcement to employees. While the exact timeline for the complete discontinuation hasn't been publicly disclosed, the company has already initiated the process of closing its boutiques and clearing CFB products from Bucherer sales points to make way for other brands.

The closure of Carl F. Bucherer represents more than just the end of a luxury watch brand; it marks the conclusion of one of Switzerland's historic watchmaking houses. As a brand that successfully combined traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation, CFB's discontinuation raises questions about the challenges facing legacy watch brands in today's competitive luxury market. The decision also highlights the complex dynamics of luxury brand management, where prestigious heritage and technical excellence don't always translate into financial success. As the Swiss watch industry continues to evolve, the closure of Carl F. Bucherer serves as a reminder that even long-established brands must adapt to changing market conditions or face difficult decisions about their future.