Geneva Watch Days 2025: TAG Heuer Launches A Revolutionary Carbon Hairspring Mechanism After Ten Years Of Development

When TAG Heuer attends a watch fair, it doesn’t just showcase its designs—it makes a statement. This year at Geneva Watch Days 2025, the brand introduced two bold creations that are vastly different yet equally revolutionary. First, the launch of the TH-Carbonspring oscillator—a ten-year research project that changes the core of mechanical watches drives two limited-edition timepieces. Second, the Carrera Astronomer looks skyward, transforming the traditional moonphase complication into something lyrical and modern. Together, these pieces showcase TAG Heuer’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking: precision grounded in science, and creativity sparked by imagination.

The Age of Carbon: TH-Carbonspring

For centuries, the regulating organ of a watch the hairspring has adhered to tradition. From Huygens’ first steel spirals to the recent emergence of silicon, progress has been slow and gradual. TAG Heuer’s response to this stagnation is the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, a fully in-house carbon hairspring developed over more than ten years at the TAG Heuer LAB.

This shift in material is truly groundbreaking. Carbon makes the hairspring resistant to everyday magnetic fields, much more durable against shocks, and significantly lighter, reducing inertia to enhance stability. In short, it provides a modern solution to challenges that have affected mechanical watches since their invention. Unlike silicon, carbon offers not just strength but also durability, clearly showing that TAG Heuer is not just keeping pace—it’s redefining the standards.

Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring

The first watch to feature this innovation is the Monaco Flyback Chronograph, the brand’s iconic square chronograph reimagined in a stealthy design. Made entirely of carbon, from its 39 mm case to the engraved dial, it maintains the striking shape that made the Monaco famous while feeling futuristic in both appearance and functionality.

Inside beats the in-house Calibre TH20-60, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph with a flyback function and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Look through the sapphire case back, and you’ll see the TH-Carbonspring in action, a delicate spiral of black material that redefines the movement’s heart. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide and priced at CHF 17,000, it’s a collector’s dream—set to be released in December 2025.

Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring

If the Monaco is rebellion in carbon form, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport exudes raw power. At 44 mm, its forged carbon case and tachymeter bezel are designed for maximum impact, both visually and technically. Yet, it’s the flying tourbillon at six o’clock that truly stands out, its mesmerizing rotation set against a spiraled carbon dial.

Powering this powerhouse is the Calibre TH20-61, another COSC-certified in-house movement, which provides a 65-hour power reserve alongside its chronograph feature. Limited to 50 pieces and priced at CHF 40,000, it will be available in Q1 2026, showcasing TAG Heuer’s ability to combine high watchmaking with extreme sports credentials.

Beyond Earth: The Carrera Astronomer

While carbon symbolizes a victory in physics, the Carrera Astronomer is TAG Heuer’s tribute to the poetry of time. Inspired by the brand’s cosmic history—recall John Glenn’s 1962 Mercury-Atlas 6 mission, when a Heuer stopwatch timed the first American orbital flight—the Astronomer revisits the moonphase but with a fresh perspective.

The watch’s lunar disc at six o’clock does more than display the full and new moons. It illustrates seven phases, each depicted with careful detail, advancing each night at precisely 1:00 AM to reflect the moon’s true rhythm. Powered by the automatic Calibre 7 with a 50-hour reserve, it transforms a long-standing complication into a modern form of celestial storytelling.

 Designed to Win On Earth and Beyond

With the TH-Carbonspring, TAG Heuer has created not just a new material but also a new future for regulating organs. With the Carrera Astronomer, it has redefined how complications can merge accuracy with artistry. These two watches are not mere novelties; they represent a commitment to innovation. At Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer once again showcased its dual talent: the science of winning races and the art of capturing the cosmos.

Price: 

Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring: 17’000 CHF

Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring: 40,000 CHF

TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer: 4’350 CHF- 6'900 CHF