The Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG 2023) : Ladies Watch Nominations
4 min read
The nominations are out and the academy has spoken. Listed below are the watches that the academy has nominated this year for the best ladies watch of 2023 at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
The rules are simple. The watch should feature the hours, minutes, seconds,a simple date (day of the month), a power reserve, a classic moon phases and could be potentially adorned with a maximum 9-carat gem setting.
Here goes
1. ARNOLD & SON - PERPETUAL MOON 38 MINTNIGHT
The Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight expresses a romantic complication and exhibits an astronomical allure with its hallmark grandest moon phase. This captivating women’s timepiece offers a terrestrial perspective of the shining satellite. Within this elegant series, the amalgamation of diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and ruthenium crystals finds its exquisite expression in this newest addition. Read more here
2. PIAGET- HIDDEN TREASURES
With the signature oval dial half-hidden by the gold work of the bracelet that appears to grow over the case and ornamental dial. Each cuff is hand-engraved with different patterns and textures, highlighting Piaget’s expertise in the art of engraving and dedication to Métiers d’Or. The different styles of engraving demonstrate the combination of dexterity and artistic sensibility mastered by each individual artisan. The gold is incised, by hand, one line at a time, using the sharp tip of a burin, the lines varying in depth, width and direction to obtain the desired effect. Gold shavings are gently blown away from the surface by the goldsmith after each gesture. No two patterns of engraved gold are the same. Here, the golden bracelet reproduces the famous lines of the Palace Decor, and inset with a sapphire-framed case and dial of turquoise. Read more here
3. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - LUDO SECRET WATCH
Van Cleef & Arpels, renowned jewelers, are focusing all their efforts this year on realizing their concept of the Poetry of Time.
The mountings in the Cheval collection are malleable and glittering, bringing out the best in diamonds and colored gems. The Ludo Secret watches are a nod to Maison’s love of mystery and are designed to feel like a pleasant surprise. Elegant and ingenious, these timepieces allow their wearer to tell the time in private by cleverly concealing the dial. Read more here
4. BEAUREGARD - LILI BOUTON
Lili Bouton is a discreet floral composition that exudes high jewellery from each of its petals and refuses to decide whether it’s a Jewell or a watch. Every petal of the Lili is invisibly set and patiently hand polished, making it a jewellery piece in its own right and a part of the eye-catching miniature garden of gems blooming on the dial. As it was done in the golden age of the Swiss watches, the components of the Lili’s are crafted by manufactures all over Switzerland.
5. HERMÈS - ARCEAU PETITE LUNE
A realization of the imaginative wonders of Henri d’Origny, the Arceau watch symbolizes a true elegant construction and combines understatement and creativity. Its round white gold case set with 70 diamonds rests on a stirrup, creating a timeless yet singular shape. Read more here
6. XRBY LA MONTRE D'ART - ESPRESSIONE ROMANTICA
Artisan watch brand XRby has teamed up with the talented architect, designer and enameller Matteo Stauffacher to create a striking cloisonné enamel timepiece.
Matteo Stauffacher’s dial uses the cloisonné enamel technique, where the pattern is outlined in gold wire and the cells are filled with enamel. The piece is fired several times then sanded to perfection.
A premiere in fine-arts watchmaking : A cloisonné enamelled oscillating weight. Always in search of excellence, we have developed an oscillating weight that allows the artist-craftsman to express his know-how also on an element of the automatic movement. It took more than 100 hours of work to create this improbable encounter between abstract art and romanticism, 1 metre of 24k gold wire with a diameter of 0.60 mm to delimit the contours of the cells, each of which hosts one or more of the 26 colours chosen by the artist.
Automatic movement manufactured in Switzerland with a power reserve of 86 hours, frequency of 3 Hz. The watch has a diameter of 40 mm, the glass box is made of sapphire, and the openworked case back and signature crown are in white gold.
Read more here.
