The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds In An Ultra-Thin Case

Soon after its inception in 1931, the Reverso was adopted by tastemakers from worlds beyond the polo fields for which it was originally conceived, leading to the appearance of new variations with coloured dials. The colours stood out against the metal of the case and injected a joyful spirit into the otherwise austere Reverso aesthetic.

Jaeger-LeCoultre will be bringing four new colorways of their Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with sunray-brushed dials to Watches And Wonders 2023. A black dial, in homage to the black dials of the original 1931 Reverso, creates a dramatic contrast to the polished metal; a burgundy lacquer dial complements the glowing richness of pink gold; and a silver dial, in homage to the silver dial of the first-generation Reverso, is a discreetly elegant foil for the rich golden glow of the metal. All three dials are housed in a newly redesigned pink gold case. Two different straps from the Fagliano Collection, one in the brand's signature canvas-and-calf combination and the other in all calf, complement the black and burgundy dials. Both a black alligator strap and a canvas-and-calf Fagliano Collection strap complement the silver face.

The steel Reverso Tribute case is updated for 2023 with a silver opaline dial that features hands and indexes finished in black nickel.

A brand-new, ultra-slim, rose-gold housing

The gold in pink thickness of the Reverso Tribute case has been drastically reduced for 2023, from 8.56mm to 7.56mm, for the highest level of sophistication and refinement. Rectangular cases, despite their unique beauty, are still uncommon in the watch industry. Because sundials are spherical, watch hands move "in the round," and watch mechanisms have traditionally been designed in a circular shape, round cases have been the norm for mechanical timekeeping devices since their inception. In 1931, when the concept of a swivelling case for the original Reverso was conceived, it had to be rectilinear. Furthermore, the design was perfect for the polo players in mind because the profile of a rectangular case closely follows the natural curve of the wrist, making it highly ergonomic.

Once the case was finalised, Jaeger-LeCoultre expanded on the rectangular principle by designing custom-made movements for the Reverso that precisely trace its anatomical contours. The Reverso's case is one of the most complex in watchmaking due to its slide-and-swivel mechanism, making it especially difficult to slim down for the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds models. Cases are entirely produced and hand-assembled by a specialised team within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, and they contain more than 50 components (of which almost 40 are dedicated to the swivelling mechanism).

Reverso Tribute dials epitomise the beauty of understatement.

The manufacturing process of sunray dials is complex and requires a lot of care. In order to prevent the underlying brass from oxidising, the dial base is first galvanised to give it a metallic sheen. Next, a fine metal brush is used to trace very fine, almost imperceptible lines on the surface in the shape of sunrays that intersect in the exact centre of the dial. This is what causes the distinctive colour shifts when light strikes the dial from different directions. Finally, the dial is varnished and polished to a smooth sheen that enhances the subtly textured sunray effect, unless it is to be lacquered.

Lacquering is a complicated craft that requires a high level of skill for coloured dials. After applying as many as twenty layers of translucent lacquer, which adds visual depth and permanently fixes the colour, the final product has the desired intensity and tone. Each successive layer must be applied by hand and allowed to dry in optimum heat and humidity before the next can be applied. The final step is to varnish the lacquer with a brilliant finish and polish it by hand until it is mirror-like. This gives the colour more depth and intensity.

The new 2023 models have dials with all the hallmarks of the Reverso Tribute, including applied indexes rather than numerals for the hours and a double index for the 12. Their faceted design complements the dauphine hands and gives the dial an extra dimension. The circular track of the small seconds display in the dial's lower half breaks up the otherwise straight lines of the dial and case. When you turn the case upside down, you can see a dramatic sunray pattern on the inside of the carrier, which goes perfectly with the sunray brushing of the dial.

As is customary with Reverso products, the reverse side of the metal case can be decorated as desired. The owner has the option of keeping the customization a secret pleasure or turning the case around so that the back is now the front of the watch.

Bringing back the sporty roots of the game

By teaming up with the renowned polo boot manufacturer Casa Fagliano, Jaeger-LeCoultre has brought the Reverso back to its equestrian roots. Each pink gold Reverso Tribute Small Seconds comes with a set of two straps in canvas-and-calf and all-calf, in colours that match the new dials, made to Fagliano's signature design. Featuring pin buckles for quick and easy strap changes, they create a unified look and strong sense of style that emphasises the timeless modernity of the Reverso design.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Calibre 822

The Calibre 822 mechanical hand-wound movement powers the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds. This mechanically sophisticated and time-tested mechanism has 108 parts and a 42-hour power reserve. Its components, like those of all Jaeger-LeCoultre calibres, are finely finished and decorated despite being concealed behind the case's solid metal back.

Calibre 822 is a custom movement developed for the Reverso and built entirely in the Manufacture. Its architecture has been designed in a tonneau shape that closely follows the rectangular form of the Reverso case, in keeping with Jaeger-LeCoultre's integrity philosophy, which states that the shape of a movement should be appropriate to that of its case. This approach was established in the early years of the Manufacture.

Technical Specifications:

REVERSO TRIBUTE SMALL SECONDS (PINK GOLD)
Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Dimensions: 45.6 x 27.4 mm; Thickness: 7.56mm
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 42 hours
Water resistance: 30 m
Dial: Black sunray / Burgundy lacquer / Silver sunray
Caseback: Closed
Strap: Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas and all-calf-leather (Pink
gold/black; Pink gold/burgundy); Fagliano Collection interchangeable calf-leather-and-canvas strap
and black alligator strap (Pink gold/silver)
Reference: Pink gold/black: Q713257J; Pink gold/burgundy: Q713256J; Pink gold/silver: Q7132521

REVERSO TRIBUTE SMALL SECONDS (STEEL)
Case: Steel
Dimensions: 45.6 x 27.4 mm; Thickness: 8.5mm
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Power reserve: 42 hours
Water resistance: 30 m
Dial: Silver opalin
Caseback: Closed
Strap: Fagliano Collection calf-leather-and-canvas
Reference: Steel Q713842J