Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023

Tudor Black Bay Brings Together Cutting-Edge Technology & Emblematic Design

THM Desk
27 Mar 2023 |
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The newest Black Bay from TUDOR at Watches And Wonders 2023 features a burgundy bezel and represents a significant technical and aesthetic evolution of the brand's iconic diving watch.

Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023

This new Black Bay is Master Chronometer certified by METAS and features an updated design with a "T-fit" clasp. The Manufacture introduced its version of the Black Bay in 2015. The original Black Bay debuted in 2012 with a burgundy bezel. Now in its third iteration, it foreshadows the line's potential in terms of design and technology. Black Bay, an iconic design from TUDOR's collection, demonstrates the brand's mastery of a particularly stringent standard for chronometry and magnetic field resistance.

The Black Bay is a METAS-certified timepiece that combines state-of-the-art watchmaking technology with aesthetic cues drawn from TUDOR's nearly seven-decade history of producing rugged professional diving timepieces.


As part of its ongoing effort to produce ever-better goods, TUDOR has sent off yet another Black Bay model for testing in order to earn a Master Chronometer certification, and this time they've been successful. This is the third time this standard has been applied to a TUDOR watch, and it represents another step towards a future fully Master Chronometer-certified offering from TUDOR. Because of the extensive modifications necessary to a standard TUDOR Manufacture Calibre for this certification, TUDOR is now able to offer an independent accreditation confirming the exceptional quality of its watches to a much wider audience.

Fully Independent Approval And Exacting Requirements

The main functional characteristics of a watch, such as accuracy, resistance to magnetic fields, water resistance, and power reserve, are all covered by the METAS Master Chronometer certification. It has extremely stringent requirements, the first of which is accuracy. That's a full five seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) requires for a single movement to be certified as a chronometer (-4 +6) and a full second less than TUDOR's internal standard, which is applied to the brand's models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4).

Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023

A watch that has been certified as accurate even when exposed to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss is a valuable possession. Last but not least, it ensures that the power reserve of every Master Chronometer watch and the manufacturer-stated waterproofness of the watch both comply with ISO standard 22810:2010. It's also worth noting that there are two pre-requisites for obtaining the certification: The Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute must certify the movement and ensure it meets the standards for Swiss Made (COSC).

The MT5602-U Manufacturing Calibre

The Black Bay is driven by a Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which shows the time in hours, minutes, and seconds. It has the look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with a sun laser design that is unique to it and the Master Chronometer designation on its bridges to highlight its exceptional accuracy and precision. It has an openworked rotor made of tungsten monobloc. The sand-blasted accents and laser-cut radial grooves give it a unique look. Alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations adorn its bridges and mainplate.

It was constructed with durability and accuracy in mind. A sturdy traversing bridge with two points of anchoring is used to support the variable inertia balance wheel in this way. The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U is accurate to within 5 seconds (0/+5) when tested on a fully assembled watch thanks to this system and its nonmagnetic silicon hairspring.

Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023

The power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Calibre has been certified for 70 hours by METAS, making it "weekend-proof," in the sense that the wearer can take off the watch on Friday night and put it back on Monday without having to wind it. A weekend away from the watch isn't necessary, though.

One of TUDOR's most iconic watches is the Black Bay with a burgundy bezel. The Black Bay's most recent revision maintains the original case dimensions of 41mm in diameter while featuring a slimmer profile. The insert of the unidirectionally rotatable bezel features subtly curved numerals that align with the outline of the outer ring, making it very easy to read.


The dimensions and bezel of the case are only two of the many aesthetic details. The satin black dial is radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light, and the seconds hand's lollipop design calls to mind the brand's early diving watches. New ergonomic improvements include a crown that is flush with the middle case band and has been redesigned to evoke the curved crowns of the brand's vintage technical watches.

T-fit Clasp For Steel Bracelet Or Rubber Strap.

Both the three-link satinbrushed steel bracelet and the five-link brushed and polished steel bracelet that come standard on the Black Bay are fitted with the TUDOR "T-fit" clasp, which features a quick-release system for adjusting the bracelet's length. This simple, tool-free system has five settings, making it possible to instantly and precisely alter the bracelet's overall length within a range of 8 millimetres. The ceramic ball bearings in the clasp make it easy to close and open and add a nice tactile sensation when used.

Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023

Black Bay, In Its Ultimate Form

The Black Bay collection takes its cues from the dials of TUDOR divers' watches from the 1950s. The "Snowflake" hands that have become synonymous with TUDOR watches since their debut in the 1969 catalogue have been incorporated into this new model.

Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023
The original TUDOR divers' watches were distinguished by details like the crown's lack of a shoulder and the lugs' integration of spring bar holes. The Black Bay collection is the result of expertly fusing classic design with cutting-edge watchmaking techniques. It's not a simple rehash of an old model; rather, it unites the best of TUDOR's dive watches from the past 60 years while remaining firmly rooted in the present. It has a neo-vintage aesthetic, but it is made using modern manufacturing techniques and is reliable, sturdy, and well-finished.

Technical Specifications:


  • CASE 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish 
  • BEZEL 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium insert 
  • WINDING CROWN Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief 
  • DIAL Black, domed
  • CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal 
  • WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 
  • BRACELET Three-link or five-link stainless steel bracelets with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp. 
  • MOVEMENT CALIBRE Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system 
  • PRECISION Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) Master Chronometer Certification from METAS FUNCTIONS Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting 
  • OSCILLATOR Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz) 
  • TOTAL DIAMETER 31.8 mm 
  • THICKNESS 6.5 mm